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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. Pony, Did the new retractable bolt directly in or did you have to make modifications? Thinking of changing mine.
  2. You sure know how to make a fellow laugh. The best I heard in a hell of along time. lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz
  3. Sounds like someone did a no no! :huh:
  4. Welcome from Ohio. Nice looking ride.
  5. Sounds good. But after winning 2 beer towers at the South Jersey 39th Mustang show yesterday, I have all the beer I need. In that case I'll send you my address - you ship me the beer - I send you the pony!
  6. You said it - "Contact For Pricing" is like saying it going to cost you an arm and leg along with your first born. :D Sounds like a good place to open a speed shop retail store. Good luck on your build. Let us know how it go's.
  7. CJPony - $20.93 plus $6.00 shipping. Difference = $3.57 - Enough for a Bud Light Draft.
  8. Quick Performance definitely would have all the parts you need. Out of the hundreds of high performance site's across the US another couple you might try are https://www.speedwaymotors.com/ - https://www.summitracing.com and https://www.jegs.com. They have comparable prices to most of the other speed/performance sites. Don't know how shipping to your side of the pond will compare to other stores or if they even ship overseas. Just out of curiosity how available are the high performance parts over there locally?
  9. With 3.70 gears...."You will be turning around 2800 rpm @ 65 mph." Are you sure about this? I am running my cleveland with a C6 AND 3.50 gears and a truetrac antislip. I register 3,200 on the tach. I plan to go to 3.25 or 3.00 gears to reduce the rpms and be able to take the car on longer trips. Sorry on that. If running a standard 205/75 14 (26" diameter) rpm will be around 3100. I don't know where the 2800 came from. I think I was thinking of the stall converter when I typed the rpm. My tach reads about 3000 - 3100 on mine at 65mph.
  10. A lot to think about. As far as the 3rd member case I know Strange has a good track record. For ring and pinion I have always had good luck with Yukon and Richmond. A 3.70 will work fine for just local driving. You will be turning around 2800 rpm @ 65 mph. I currently am running a 3.70 with a 2800 stall behind a built up 460 with C6. Don't know about the special bearings. A 28 spline axle will hold up to around 400 rear wheel horsepower before the sound of inevitability, the snap you hear when the axles break under heavy acceleration. If you can squeeze the dollars I would switch to a 31 spline. They are about 30% stronger. You could try to find a good used housing if going to go that route and save a few dollars. Figure around $300 to $500 for a set of axels. You will be better off to do it now if you can afford it.
  11. Sorry to hear about the sad news. Hard not to dwell on the sorrow but try to celebrate his life for what his is and has done. My prayers are with you and family
  12. Can you send picture? Also what trains and engine. Do you have a column shifter? The only thing coming down to transmission on driver side is the kickdown rod from the carburetor and shift rod on the column reverse lockout.
  13. The difference in color determines the preset shifting range base on engine manifold vacuum for vehicle and engine type. Also note that certain colors are either screw in or push in. Either color will work but the results in your shifting timing and hardness/softness will vary. If you go with a preset make sure you are getting the correct type such as screw in or push in. Brown, Purple and Green stripped vacuum modulators are for later year applications (72,73) and are of the push in variety. White is screw in (71). I would recommend getting an adjustable one. Note that some of the color modulators are adjustable. If there is a picture of it look at where the vacuum line goes and see if there is a slot in the end of the nipple. If so then it is adjustable. It will give you the opportunity to make adjustments to the shifting speed and smoothness. When higher amounts of engine vacuum act on the modulator, the transmission begins to shift earlier and softer. As engine loads increase vacuum diminishes, causing the transmission to shift later and more firmly. Engine hp and rear end ratio all come into play. Adjusting the modulator will help with getting the best shifting range for your car set up. Turn clockwise to firm up and delay the up-shift of the transmission. Turn the adjustment screw in a counterclockwise direction to speed up and soften the up-shift. Do one turn at a time and test drive. Do not adjust the screw more than 3 turns in either direction. The best overall speeds for the shifts on a C4 transmission are: Light acceleration ; 1-2 shift at 5-7 mph 2-3 shift at 10 - 15mph - Medium acceleration; 1-2 shift at 10-12 mph 2-3 shift 20-25 mph - Hard acceleration; 1-2 shift at 15-17 mph 2-3 shift at 28-30 mph - Full throttle extreme; 1-2 shift at 35-40 mph 2-3 shift at 60-75 mph.
  14. When higher amounts of engine vacuum act on the modulator, the transmission begins to shift earlier and softer. As engine loads increase vacuum diminishes, causing the transmission to shift later and more firmly. Adjusting the modulator will help with shifting. It sounds like you need to turn the screw in some. Turn clockwise to firm up and delay the up-shift of the transmission. Turn the adjustment screw in a counterclockwise direction to speed up and soften the up-shift. Do one turn at a time and test drive. Do not adjust the screw more than 3 turns in either direction.
  15. Question - Is the rotor off on #1 contact when #1 cyl is tdc? Try to rotate the rotor ccw while pulling up on the distributor. Try using a block of wood under the distributor to pry up with while you try to turn the rotor. When you replaced the distributor did it go in hard when you were tightening the hold down clamp? It would be hard to jamb the oil pump shaft in the distributor unless you got some dirt or debris in the end of the distributor shaft. Should come out with a little persuasion.
  16. Welcome from Ohio. Enjoy your new ride.
  17. Here you go. Should be what you need. Last picture is a brake guide. https://www.carid.com/dorman/drum-brake-guide-plate-mpn-13896.html?singleid=1989100581&url=853854 Wheel cylinjder rods - https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-brake-shoe-to-cylinder-link-front-or-rear.html Parking brake - https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-emergency-brake-cable-lever-for-10-brakes-right.html or https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-emergency-brake-cable-lever-for-10-brakes-left.html Parking Brake Strut either https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-emergency-brake-strut-for-10-brakes-6-13-16-long-genuine-ford.html or https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/mustang-parking-brake-link-v8-10-1965-72.html
  18. As Don said, clean the balancer to find the marks. Not for sure of your knowledge level on this but the are 3 different TC's There is BTC "Before Top Dead Center", ATC "After Top Dead Center" and TC " Top Dead Center. Make sure you are on the TC mark when checking the rotor orientation to #1.
  19. Go to top of page and go to Mustang Data. There is complete wiring diagram for each year.
  20. Not a lot there for it to hit. Foam gasket between blower and heater/ac box but that is a few inches from the blower. Does not seem that would make that sound anyway. Cage could be loose. Were there any labels on the new housing? More than likely you are going to have to pull the blower.
  21. As mentioned above you will need a timing light to get it running right. It does sounds like is a timing issue. You mentioned that you are getting fuel so the thing to try for now is first see if you are getting a continuous spark. Pull any plug wire and have someone turn the engine over for a few seconds. See if you are getting a repeating spark. If not, then you know you have a electrical issue. This could be anything from the coil to the distributor. If you are getting good repeating spark then move on to finding TDC on number one cylinder. Do this by removing the #1 spark plug and using your thumb plug the hole. Have someone tap the engine until you feel the compression stroke. Use a breaker bar to finish turning the crank until you get the cylinder dead top. Check the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and make sure the pointer is at the TDC mark. Next, pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to #1 on cap. The rotor turns ccw so it should be a smudge after the contact on the cap with #1 on tdc . If not, loosen the distributor and rotate it until it is at least pointing to #1. If it is way off then you might need to pull the distributor out enough to advance or retard it a tooth on the gear. At this point the engine should fire and try to run. You may need to turn the distributor a little to get it running smooth. You will now definitely need a timing light to finish setting the timing. If still no luck then you may have a timing chain, cam or valve issue among other things. Good luck.
  22. Welcome from Ohio. Congrats on your car. Looks like a nice ride.
  23. Glad to hear you got your problem solved. That's one of those tuff type of problems that hard to find. There are a few good videos on you tube about checking the field, commutator and armature on a motor for shorts. Easy enough to do with ohm meter. It would be something you would not think of doing it since the starter ran.
  24. Welcome from Ohio. Nice ride. For sure you will enjoy for many years.
  25. First things first. When posting give as much info as possible such as what year car and transmission. C4 - C6 ?. Did you take the valve body off when you drain the oil. If so then more than likely the manual shift valve in the valve body is not connected to the external linkage properly.
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