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Posts posted by Kilgon

  1. 59 minutes ago, Fredensborg said:

    Space might be an issue. I have a three stall garage that houses the Mustang, the wife's Explorer, and bikes, lawn equipment, and all that crap. Not a lot of extra room for parts. I like the idea of making a list of things I want to accomplish with it, I will definitely be doing that. Would it be smart to do the engine and transmission over one of our long Minnesota winters and then save up/mentally prepare for the body and paint in the future? If the drivetrain is solid, it shouldn't be that big of a deal to pull it again in the future and then reinstall after paint right? 

    +1 with Don and Mike.  No simple answer for some of your questions.  Don't know your knowledge level but the more you can do yourself will save you dollars in labor that can be used to purchase more parts. For your current question if you are going to pull the engine and trans do it first.  This will give you the opportunity to clean up and  repaint the engine bay and also provide easier access  to the brake lines plus the wiring in the engine bay. If cowl work is required this would also be the best time to do it. 

    I restored mine short of pulling the engine in a  standard 2 car garage.  I would pull my wife's car out and work on the mustang then at the end of the day pull hers back in.  I had the car on ramps and jack stands.  The fenders and trunk lid were stored under the car and the hood was stood up at the end of the garage. As Don mentioned I took an inventory of the things I was going to need and purchased what  I could at the start of my build. I focused on the big tickets items and the "need it now" type items to start with. 

    One thing I can't express enough it is to take lots of pictures as you take things apart.  And then take a couple of more to be on the safe side!  Nothing worse than trying to figure out how to put something back together or where it goes.  Also, if your lines for the doors, fenders, trunk and hood are good drill some alignment holes so when you put it back together things will be extremely close to where they were before you took it apart.   As you should know there is lots of good info on this site in previous  post and people willing to help.

    Good luck and enjoy the time together with your son.            

    • Like 1
  2. 2 hours ago, 1sostatic said:

    Down with the British - :biggrin:- no taxation without representation 

    I hope ya'aawll doin fine over there without us :thumb:

    Thank you for the reminding us that we should be celebrating our independence as Americans.   I'm surprised that we are even having a 4th of July this year.  Been waiting for some religion, ethnic, political, gender, or other group to protest and have it removed from our holidays or have it renamed some funky name.       

    • Like 2
  3. Always great to find a surprise in a deal like that.   Looks like there are quite a few good parts to be had from it.  You can always find buyers for the parts you don't use and get a few of your dollars back. 

  4. I rarely take it out just to be driving it.  Most of my driving is to local cruise ins and car shows.   Would like to drive it more often but have gotten gun shy from several nasty nicks from road debris and a really bad chip in the drivers door by crap coming off a pick up truck going in the opposite direction. It's just to dam pretty.  :biggrin:



    • Like 1
  5. Tuning is a science with a bit of luck in it.  Most engines perform at their best with about 34 to 36 degrees max advance.  The purpose of a higher advance at a lower rpm is to get you up and moving quicker than a lower advance will.

    I have mine setup so all is in at about 2800 - 2900 rpm.  They way I set it is to have someone reeve the engine up until I no longer see any advance curve coming in.  At that point I then know how to adjust the springs and then make adjustments to get the full curve in at the rpm I want - in my case the 2800 to 2900 range. My engine is a 460 and runs best with 34 degrees total.  Once set I then let the engine come back to idle and that is then my idle advance setting for idle.   My distributor has 16 degrees in it and I run 18 degrees at idle for a total of 34.   

    Below is a link to one of the best video's I have seen over the years explaining recurving  a distributor and  it advantages.   Also attached is a article on Duraspark distributors.

    How To Re-Curve A Distributor, And Why! (badasscars.com)

    Duraspark Timing.pdf

    Hope this helps you.

  6. The odds are 99.9% you have a crush sleeve unless someone replaced it earlier with a spacer.  Don't know if you took a preload reading before you took it off. You need to get it back to the exact spot it was at.  See the link below. Scroll down to the section where Don C posted a section of the manual on how it should be done.


  7. 7 hours ago, machattack said:

    Thank you guys! 

    I did purchase a nice set of lens's so I really need to get the old ones out but not damage the alum bezels. So....what is VHT ? very hot tamale :-)  seriously I don't know?  

    As Geoff mentioned it is a brand of paint.  I stated that I used the matte finish but is was the satin. It is what I use on my rims.  VHT Wheel Paint -- High Heat Coatings (vhtpaint.com)

    • Like 1
  8. Congrats on the birth of your son. Sounds like all are well and doing fine.  Besides being a father don't forget to also be his best friend.  Something a lot of parents overlook and then wonder why their kids don't talk to them.    

    • Like 1
  9. +1 with Omie01.  I used TMI and the seats turned out nice.  You want a good foam that will hold up and is comfortable.  For what the upholsterers are going to charge you to do them the last thing you want to do is use cheap foam that will degrade over a short time and then have to have them redone again.  

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