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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. As everyone is saying - if it isn't broke or causing problems I won't do anything other then change the gear oil. You will need a siphon pump of some kind since there is no drain plug on the 9". Use a good quality gear oil and fill to bottom of filler plug. It will take about 2 1/2 quarts. Also, if you got trac loc / posi traction you will need to add a bottle of friction modifier additive. Can get from some of the parts stores or a Ford dealer. If you do try to do a rebuild yourself "Bad Shoe Produtions" has an excellent video you can purchase on how to rebuild it and the tools you will need. PS - the old gear lube stinks to high hell so try not to get it all over.
  2. If the rest of the box is in good shape I would patch it. You can make a patch out of some fiberglass cloth and resin. You can use a piece of cardboard covered in wax paper fitted in the end as a mold. The resin will not stick to it. Scuff up the area around the edges and put a piece of fiberglass cloth soaked in resin on the outside. Once this has set you can remove the cardboard and do another strip on the inside if you want to double up. Make sure you scuff up the first piece before overlaying it. Should work ok since this is a area where there is no stress. I have done several over the years on heaters boxes and vent tubes. Still holding strong.
  3. White stripe and I do believe be screw in. Later models had push in held by bracket. Extra FYI - If you want to adjust the shifting speed there is a screw where the hose goes on in the nipple. Use a small flat tip screw driver. Turn clockwise to firm up and delay the up-shift of the transmission. Turn the adjustment screw in a counterclockwise direction to speed up and soften the up-shift. Do one turn at a time and test drive. Do not adjust the screw more than four turns in either direction.
  4. Partially true. Some C4's did. The earlier models did and then it was a hit or miss over several years. Below is a original factory C4 torque converter. I would take the few extra minutes and check. Drain plug in torque converter Ford C4 transmission
  5. Not a lot to service at a basic level. Fluid color should tell you a little about overall condition. If still fairly red then probably in good shape and a sign the transmission has been serviced. If dark and burnt smell then could have some issues. I would start with a complete fluid change which would include draining the torque converter. Check and see what' s in the pan when you drop it. Look closely for any signs of metal flakes or cellulose material from the bands or clutch disc. Check the old filter over good also when changing it for any foreign material. I wouldn't drop the valve body unless I had a reason to. Make sure you stay with type F fluid. Should take about 10 quarts to fill back up. I would also replace the vacuum modulator valve while your under there. I would replace with an adjustable one. Test drive and see how it runs. Pay attention to the shifting speeds and how smooth they are. Take note in performance between being cold and after it warms up. If it is shifting smooth and no noticeable slippage or hard shifts the you should be good to go. If you experience any slippage or hard shifting then the bands may need adjusting or rebuild may be necessary. Also would run a pressure check at that time too.
  6. Welcome from Ohio. Double your pleasure. Lucky guy.
  7. Today I finished upholstering the back seat and putting together the new door panels. Now I'm waiting to get the car back from the paint shop to start putting it back together.
  8. Welcome from Ohio. Looks like a nice ride. Your lucky to have found such a nice car.
  9. Hi Machattack, Sorry to hear your problems with your starter. Swapping out the relay will not fix your problem. The starter is bad and will need to be replaced. You can try taking it apart and cleaning it and checking the solenoid point assembly (under the cover on the side of the starter) . The problem could also be in the starter drive yoke area ( the parts the throws the gear forward. See the exploded view. This is a typical Ford starter. Hope this helps you.
  10. Welcome from Ohio. Just think of the sleepless nights you have ahead of you thinking about the things you have to do and the parts you have to buy! LOL.
  11. From one vet to another - Thank You and welcome from Ohio. 2 years of hard work but finally getting there. Hoping to have done in the next 60 days.
  12. Thanks for taking the time and checking for me. Wanting to get it right the first time. Car is getting painted and I'm trying to get as much ready as I can so when I get it back I can move forward on the getting interior in.
  13. Thanks, I have a complete interior kit which includes those.
  14. Hi Guys, Replacing the beltline on the interior panels. The panels were laying loose in the car and did not have any on them when I got the car. The new ones I have seem to fit okay but not for sure how close to the end of the panel they should be. If I slide them until they stop at the small bend in them they sit back about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. See pics below. Should they be more flush with the end or is this ok? I have tried to find some pictures on the internet and this site but have had no luck. Thanks for the help.
  15. Yes you are correct. Thanks for pointing that out. My handles are well worn in the pocket and already had a shine as many of the older originals do as they wear from use. If you look at the first picture you can see the worn areas. I should have noted that in my original post. I have edited the post to note it. It's a way to bring a old dull looking handle back to life without replacing it. Adds a touch of bling to the doors. LOL
  16. Hi all, Been picking everyones brain on how to do things. Now my turn to give back. The following is my way of cleaning up the chrome on the outside door handles when the finger pocket is well worn. This process will remove what's left of the original factory dull color and give the pocket a high polish chrome look. Figure about 30 to 60 minutes per handle depending on the degree of oxidation. This can be done on or off the car. Hope this helps someone in the future. Items needed - Dremel or similar - chrome polish - buffing wheels - several cloths. Inside of handle before starting - pull handle open and you can wedge a 12mm socket in the back to hold it open while you work. Apply polish and start buffing. Use a slow speed around 5,000 to 10,000 rpm. Work a small area at a time and only for about 5 to 10 seconds. Wipe off old polish and reapply. Note the socket slid in the corner holding the handle open. Starting to see some shine. For in the corners and reaching the far back use a cone shape buffer. Continue buffing until you get all the areas. Now that's what I call shinny! Now do the top outside of handle. You can finish off by doing the texture area. A few last tips. Keep using fresh polish. Wipe clean after every pass. I put some in a bowl and apply with my finger. Change you buffer from time to time. Keep moving and don't hover in one spot. Do short burst of 5 to 10 seconds. You can over heat the chrome and cause a little blueish color. If it gets hot, stop and wait a second.
  17. Project Completed!!! Thanks to all for the help and great input. I went ahead and used the Sem Landau Black. If glare becomes a problem I will spray with clear matte. Turned out great. See pics.
  18. Thanks for the input. Using SEM rattle can. Going to put 4 or 5 coats on. Have Landau black on all the trim so I think I'll stay with that on the upper dash. I know the dash is suppose to be in Charcoal Metallic. Don't know if there is much difference in actual color. Good idea on using the clear matte to dull any shine. Do you know what gloss level the grill and rear honeycomb are and what SEM line to use? Whoa on the 4-5 coats! You'll fill in the grain that way. 1 mist coat plus another full coat is all that you'll need after a coat of primer. Thanks midlife - will take your advice. I figure a few extra coats due to it being the dash but didn't think about filling in the grain. Will start light and then one regular and work from there if needed.. I'm using rattle can so I use light coats to start with.
  19. Thanks for the feed back. I had wiped the dash down with mineral spirits to get an idea of what I was dealing with. The vin is there. It's taped over with black duct tape. All 3 vins match - door - dash and frame. Have started stripping and is going well. Using Klean aircraft stripper. Should get painted today if I can make my mind up on the color. Still toying with staying with the Landau Black. Have several can's of the Landau on hand yet and my money is tight "wad" lol. I'm retired. Don't know if there is much difference in the color between the Landau and Charcoal Metallic. Wanting to look great but this is not a show car. To many modifications have been done.
  20. The Sem Trim Black has 3 gloss levels -Satin -Semi - High Gloss. Which one would you recommend? I'm thinking the satin or semi
  21. Thanks for the input. Using SEM rattle can. Going to put 4 or 5 coats on. Have Landau black on all the trim so I think I'll stay with that on the upper dash. I know the dash is suppose to be in Charcoal Metallic. Don't know if there is much difference in actual color. Good idea on using the clear matte to dull any shine. Do you know what gloss level the grill and rear honeycomb are and what SEM line to use?
  22. Correct. It is about the only thing that can strip painted stamped metal without damage. You can also try Easy Off Oven Cleaner (must have lye), which works on painted fiberglass textures. Once cleaned, use a light epoxy coat then a top coat. Too many paint layers will smooth the texture out. Thanks for the info. Will start on it tomorrow.
  23. It is metal. Has a few small dents in the leading edge. So, if I use I aircraft stripper it will not harm it?
  24. Thanks for the info Steve. There are a couple of spots that look worn as if something was sliding around on the dash. Just might be where it was previously painted and is built up. I have been using sem Landau on the interior panels and trim around the headliner and a pillar. I'm building more of a driver than show. Trying to do things right as I go along but the car has been modified. It's an ealy 71. Came as a "02" base fastback with 302 and C4 but has had a 460 with a C6 dropped into it and updated grille and trim to imitate a Mach 1. I know sem makes a Charcoal Metallic. I will pick some up. Kilgon, "The only dumb question is the one not asked"
  25. Hi Guys, Is the texture on the upper dash and lower rear window trim stamped in the metal or is it a coating of some type. Ready to redo these two pieces and need to know if it is ok to strip these to bare metal or not. . Thanks for the help.
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