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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. Sorry you broke it. I found that if you follow the below steps it will help increase your odds of getting it out in one piece. Remove out side trim and try to get a much adhesive away from the side of the windshield being careful not to nick the glass. Remove the inside trim and using a slim flat windshield removal tool or putty knife or similar thin piece of steel start working it between the windshield and frame. Take your time and work around the entire window. You will stand a better chance of not cracking the glass if you stay away from the edges. Wet a paper towel or rag in Mineral Spirits and let it lay on the adhesive for about 5 minutes and then use a putty knife to scrap away. Repeat the process until all is removed. Good luck.
  2. I have an email into them to see if the Hobby Kit can be brushed on or if it is spray only. Would be easier to do the trim on the bezel's and smaller details then having to tape everything up. I'll post their reply when I get it. Update - Just got email back from Alsacorp and they said it can be sprayed or brushed on. Here are the instructions they sent. APPLICATION: Start With a clean, smooth and ready surface. Begin to brush on your basecoat only doing 1 Layer of base, as long as your part is covered you will only need 1 layer. If sprayed with an air gun, you can reduce the basecoat with water by 25% so it can spray out smoothly from your air gun. Only 1 layer is needed. Let the basecoat AIR DRY 1hr 70°F or BAKE 20min 160°F Basecoat should be fully DRY. Before you use Easy Chrome, SHAKE bottle very well. Begin by brushing with a CLEAN brush, 1 medium wet layer of Easy Chrome. Chrome should start to turn in 2 minutes. Let the Easy Chrome AIR DRY 1hr 70°F or BAKE 20min 160°F You are done! I know nothing replaces re-chroming but if this is at least 90% chrome reflective without the dull silver look it will work for a lot of the small jobs at a fraction of the cost. The question that needs to be answer is what level of quality are you looking for. For me, I'm building a driver that I want to look good but I don't have the high dollars needed to get the professional work. So I will choose where to spend those dollars to get the most bang for my buck without sacrificing quality where needed. Re-chroming something that is somewhat out of sight will be lower on my quality list than say my bumper.
  3. Hey Don, please let me know how it turns out. I found some other paint that seems pretty impressive by Alsa corp. Has anyone had any experience with them. Their website is https://alsacorp.com. They have a paint called Easy Chrome. If you go to their web site it is listed on the left hand side. I'm thinking about getting their Hobby Kit and giving it a try if the Spaz Stix that Don is trying doesn't turn out to well. It's a little pricey but if it does the job it would be well worth it.
  4. Found a site that has Chome color paint that is as real as it gets. Might want to check it out. Not cheap but less expensive than having it re-chrome. Go to https://alsacorp.com/ and on the left side choose Easy Chrome. I have been looking for something to use to restore the trim on my bezels. Looks like this is the way I'm going to end up going. Besides spray on kits they have a brush on kit that's not to bad price wise.
  5. I have searched but most are for sending out to restore. Hate to spend $100 on a repro piece when all I need is 4" of chrome redone. Have tried several different tapes now but no luck. They don't work well when doing the bends. Picked up some new scotch tape type chrome tape yesterday but haven't given it a try yet. I found Alsa Corp Easy Chrome on the web. Seems to be some pretty neat stuff but to expensive for what I want. It shame they don't make a kit for around $50 or less. I sent them a email but haven't heard anything back. If I find something that works well I'll let you know and will post back here. Thanks for your reply.
  6. Hi, I am upgrading my base model dash on my 71 Fastback. I am adding the RH bezel and glove box trim. I have purchased a new instrument bezel and rh trim. I am using original center and glove box door trim. What is the best way to touch up the chrome trim around the bezels? Short of buying new or having sent out to be restore (arm & a leg) is there an inexpensive fix to get the chrome plating fixed. What about chrome vinyl tape? Thanks, Kilgon
  7. I'm reaching out for a little help. This might seem like a dumb question but not for sure how this goes. Have 71 fastback fixed steering column. When I took it apart the nylon bushing was broken in half and there was no foam sleeve. I looked at the exploded view I found online to order the new parts. I thought I had it back together right but not for sure. Does the foam sleeve go into the nylon bushing? If so, should the steering wheel shaft turn inside the foam sleeve or does the nylon bushing turn inside the steering column? Had foam sleeve inside nylon bushing and the bushing was turning inside the steering column. Not for sure if this is right. Thanks for any help.
  8. I'm starting to have seconds thoughts about it. Replacing the gauges may be the best way to go. I'm afraid I might open up a can of worms replacing the harness. I know I can get the ammeter converted to a volt meter but I still have the older gauges that are at risk of failing. What are a few of the midrange cost meter brands out there?
  9. I want to keep what I have left of the original for the time being. I have spare gauges so I rather get the right harness. As Don suggested I got with Midlife and am getting the correct harness. Thanks everyone for the info and help.
  10. Thanks for the info Don. I'll get with Midlife. I visited his site but it seems they recommend to get a new harness instead of a having mine refurbished.
  11. I sorta figured that splice wasn't right. If I rewire the harness to the correct wires should the rest of the electrical system be ok? I know that the voltage regulator is wire different then it is if you have a amp light. Would you happen to have any pictures of where the splices are? Thanks for your help.
  12. Hi, Trying to find out if anyone knows exactly where the wire splices are for a 71 Fastback ammeter. My oil and temp work on my center gauges but the amp does not. I have tested the gauge and it is good. I also tried a spare I have. I have checked the wiring diagram but am unable to determine where number 654 and 655 splice are at. I have trace 654 and it is tied into 37 right after it comes out the fuse block connector. I don't know if this was done at the factory or not. I have traced 655 into the block connector but the wire is missing on the out side to the firewall. The socket is empty where it should be at. I plan on running a new wire but am not sure exactly where to tie in at what point. Below is where 654 ties into 37 out of the back of the fuse block junction. The upper left hand corner is where 655 should be but it is missing. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
  13. Just rebuilt my 9". Built a small cradle out of a couple of 4x4's to let the pumpkin drop on to. The rebuild is not so hard if you have the right tools. Picked up a couple of video's from Bad Shoe Productions http://www.badshoeproductions.com/ on how to do the rebuild. While your at it now is the time to replace the seals in the rear end also.
  14. Kilgon


    Just wanted to say hi and am looking forwards to picking up a lot of good info, tips and maybe a few friends along the way. Inherited from my brother. Was originally 302 C4 Fastback. Has been converted to a 460 C6 wannabe Mach1. Wanting to make a nice looking weekend driver. All matching serial numbers - dash - door - frame. Been working on it for a little over a year now. Making some progress - two steps forward , one step back LOL. Currently working on a rusted out cowl. As luck would have it this car had A/C. Will have to make a patch. Here are a few pics.
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