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Kilgon

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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. Very good point on the warranty. I checked and the ST Suspension warranty is only two years. I guess I will go with the Addco's. Will get in touch with them on Monday. I'll check on the 3/4 conversion. As I mentioned in jpaz post someone added the 1/2 rear bar and WELDED the brackets to the frame. tony-muscle is going to get me the measures of where the brackets should be.
  2. I am getting ready to replace my front and rear sway bars. I've been following jpaz post on the Addco and their redesign 7/8 rear end one. I was wondering if anyone out there has used ST Suspensions sway bars. Did a search of the post on here to see if anyone had posted about them but didn't find any results. They have a front / rear kit that is about $100 less than Addco's. The front is 1 1/8 and the rear is 3/4. Granted that Addco's rear is 7/8 but I don't think it would be a noticeable difference in the performance of the car between the two. If the quality and performance of them are good I can spend the $100 I'm saving elsewhere on the car. I'm open to any input.
  3. No, used it straight out of the can. Poured it in a small plastic bowl first and then dipped them. I just dipped just the top part in to cover the flat surface and then removed and let the excess drip off for a few seconds. I then turned it over 180 degrees and let it set before dipping again. I look for replacements at all the online sites when I was doing mine and couldn't find any. If you do find some please post where at. Here is aside view so you can see where it stops at. Hope this helps.
  4. That is a sol item. Use black plastic dip and recoat them that way. I painted and then dipped mine 4 times and they look great.
  5. Thanks for the offer on taking some measurements Geoff. It would be great if you could get me a few when you get your new sway bar in. There are a couple of holes in the frame close to where they welded the brackets that I think are for the them but I want to make sure.
  6. Thanks jpaz for your hard work on this. I'm plan on upgrading mine in the near future and will be going with Addco's. Does anyone have a good picture of the mounting brackets on the frame. My 71 is a sportsroof and somewhere along the road the rear sway bar was added on by "WELDING" the mounts to the frame. I want to redo this and make it correct and need any pictures of where the mounting brackets location should be. Thanks for any pictures anyone has.
  7. There are two ways to send a message to someone. From a post you can click on the icon of the person you want to pm and then on Message on the profile page that opens or at the very top of any page you will see a bell and an envelope next to it. Click on the envelope and you can compose a message there. When someone send you a message you will get a email notification along with a green message envelope at the top of the site page.
  8. We are sorry to hear the sad news Rod. Remember that she lives on in you children and grand children. I found that whenever I lost a loved one to take time to reflect on all the good and positives thing that they brought into this world and it helped to relieve the pain of the lost. I hope that she gets her wish to meet with God and get some of this messed up world straighten out. She and your family will be in our prayers. Steve & Carol
  9. If you go to the Wiki section at the top of the page you will find the schematics for all 3 years. The 72 and 73 don't really have the wiring color code spelled out. You will find this in the 71 manual. The color code and wire number is the same for all 3 years. So if you look at wire #60 in the 71 schematic it is shown to be black with light green dot. It is the same for the 72 and 73. I know it's a pia but you can take a few minutes and go through the 71 and copy the codes off each page. Also, there are more wires than colors so they used the main primary colors (red, blue, black etc.) and added the dots, stripes and dashes to allow for enough color codes. As far as connector locations there is no direct way of telling exactly where a connector might be located. The 71 schematic is drawn in such a way that they show the main front to rear harness connector. If you look at it most every thing on the left hand side of the page from the main connector is in the engine compartment and everything else on the right hand side is in the passenger or trunk area. The 72 -73 schematics are layout so to be laid side by side to create one big schematic. If you use the "component grid locator" on page 1 it will tell you where that circuit is located on the schematic. Your general knowledge of the location of most of these items will guide you to where they are, example - front turn signal etc. Make sure that you take the time to read any notes on the pages. Hope this helps some. FYI - This page is missing from the 71schematic.
  10. Very nice looking Camaro. Looks like you got a lot of work ahead of you. At least you know what you are getting into. As already mentioned keep us updated with pics and let us know how it is going.
  11. I have a 460 but am also using the Lucas 10w40 Hot Rod oil. I have read a lot on this topic on numerous sites and there seems to be just as many suggestions at to what weight is best. I would say that as long as you stay within the 10w30 to 10w40 range you should be ok. The main thing to be concerned about is getting a brand that has the added zinc especially if you have a flat tappet cam. As mentioned in a lot of the post this will help prolong the life of our engines. Besides Lucas Hot Rod oil Valvoline VR1 has a high zinc content. Penn Grade, Mobil and Driven are also a few other brands out there. You want to make sure is says ZDDP Enhanced on the label which is the zinc anti-wear additive.
  12. You can get replacement grommets from Rock Auto. Also, the grommets get torn up from have the front end suspend without the control arms being held in place by a special tool or block of wood. See below from one of the many post on this issue along with an article it. Ford Front Suspension Support Tool by Tommy Zees - Page 2 - Suspension, Handling, Brakes, Wheels and Tires - 7173Mustangs.com Lift Classic Mustangs and Avoid Suspension Damage (mustangandfords.com)
  13. Welcome from southern Ohio. Sounds like you have a good solid car to work with. Plenty of friendly people here with a ton of knowledge they are willing to share just for the asking. What part of Ky you from?
  14. We are suppose to go to Yellowstone. Still debating if we are going to go or cancel again this year. If we cancel then there is a good chance we will go and I will trailer the car to there. It's would be about 8 hour drive including a couple of stops on the way.
  15. Really great looking. You hard work will definitely show in the finish. The nice thing about reassembling is that each part that you put back on seems to drive you more to put on the next part after that and so on as you see your car coming together.
  16. Nice to see that he will do that for you. I would ask him if there is anything you can do to help cut the cost down while still getting a good looking finish. Never hurts to ask. I was able to work out a good deal with my painter on the bases that I lay out his business card at any cruise in or show that I go to. He did mess the hood up on the stencil and offer to redo at no charge. After seeing it for a few times I sorted like it so I told him I was fine with the way it is. He said if at any time I change my mind to let him know. This is what good business does for their customers. He knows the power of word of mouth and what it can do. Stencil is correct at front but he ran it inward at the rear. Other than that the rest of the car turned out great. After seeing it a few times I like the way it fades in at the rear. Haven't had any body notice or at least say anything about it yet.
  17. If he won't work with you I wouldn't hesitate to let the public know what kind of work he does and that he won't make his mistakes right. You paid for a good looking paint job, not an orange peel paint job. I would also report him to the BBB, any other organizations in your area that list businesses and even on social media. Call him out and see what happens.
  18. Great job and a good info. Will definitely help the net guy that tackles one. They look in pretty bad shape. Glad to see that you were able to get them running again.
  19. Looks really great from the pics. The price of the paint or clear does not have any thing to do with orange peel. Some paint is more forgiving when spraying but even the cheapest of the lot can be sprayed to look as good as top dollar. Orange peel is caused by a number of things such as cold temperature or a reducer that dries to fast not allowing the paint to flow. Also over spray or too low pressure when spraying are a few of the causes just to name a few. Granted now paint job is 100% perfect but if it is as you described I would push for him to make it right without the extra cost.
  20. The string is actually a cord or thin rope and it is used only to put the window in. Although David has been at this much longer than I have I believe you should use the foam. There are a number of post on the foam subject. I helped a friend with a 72 put his in using only sealant and no foam. We were able to move the window a little after is was in. I know the sealant will set but I feel the foam provides a tighter fit while acting as a water seal also. If you follow the directions and put the sealant as shown it should provide a leak free window. The link on our site for a "how to install rear window" from 2010 does not work anymore. The below video is for a front windshield of a earlier year mustang but it uses a gasket and the installation procedure is the same. It's not that hard to do. Just make sure you have a helper. Mustang Windshield 1965-1968 Installation - YouTube
  21. I use Mr Gasket aluminum. They compress making it easy to get any leaks causes by a wrapped flange. They hold up well and do a great job of sealing.
  22. I just did a low end Scytek system a few months ago. As tony mentioned above there is a lot of wiring to be done. I decide to place everything behind the glove box. I removed the dash pad and instrument cluster to replace the cluster printed circuit but I would suggest to remove the dash pad anyway because it will make things easier to get to. I also added power door locks with it. Thanks to tony's post on this it was easy to do. My main focus was to get a system on it and wired up. I just wanted to get the car secure with some type of deterrent. I will upgrade the unit itself at a later date but that will be simple since everything is now already wired. Below is the link to my install and also to tony's power lock add on. I do have to say I feel better when I take the car out somewhere and park it that it will be there when I come back out. Alarm System Add On - Electrical, Lighting & Electronics - 7173Mustangs.com Adding power locks - Interior, Seats, Door Panels, Trunk, Glass, etc - 7173Mustangs.com
  23. Could be either one. I would dry everything off really good than take a piece of plastic and tape it right at the of the bottom below the rear window trim and cover the trunk with it. You can then pour some water over the rear window and see if you are still getting water in the trunk. If so I would pull the rear window and replace the gasket and foam tape and reinstall. If still dry than your trunk seal is leaking.
  24. Good video and very interesting info. I was in the construction industry in both heavy highway and building all my life. I work with GPS 3D guidance of heavy equipment which included slip form pavers and. These are the machines they use to build concrete roads, curb and gutter and barrier walls. I know that the DOT's and concrete companies were constantly trying different concrete mixes to try to improve strength, cure time, flexibility and overall longevity. You see and take for granted the building materials that things are made out of without every considering how the material itself is made.
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