7173Vert

The correct fan shroud is made by the Barnum Bros Co and this is stamped underneath the Ford ID # (Driver Side Top left corner). These shrouds in good condition command a hefty price today.

I believe the correct fan shroud for a ‘71 Mustang 429 car is D00E-8146-D. The piece you are showing does not appear to be correct for this Mustang.

Generally, #’s matching confirmation will not include disassembling an engine to check for correct factory installed parts. If a car is at this level today, it is done for driving in its lifetime; could not risk damaging these parts. What you describe is a true museum piece. The block, the heads and all other factory identified exterior pieces are not that difficult to confirm. At the end of the day, the consumer must be sure of what they are buying. Your suspicions noted here would make it next to impossible for a purist to purchase an original “average person” car. One is correct to perform their due diligence to the level they are satisfied with confirming #’s matching components. In my case, there was no way the original engine would be intact as you describe. The car had been driven year round for 30+ years meaning the engine had been rebuilt more then once.... Hiwever, remarkably, the original block, heads, exhaust manifolds were still there. The rest, I sourced keeping a 60-90 day build date window for these parts, in line with the car’s actual build date. So yes, #’s matching by the accepted means today for a car that has been driven and not lived in a museum all it’s life. I agree with you in that one must be sure of what they are paying for....

Well, interesting comments here to your request. So, you indicate no numbers matching, concourse car’s therefore the $119k car is not a good example for your purposes. There are many on the various resell web sites for sale, all in various state of true B1 configuration.... IMO, a Boss without its original driveline is just another fastback with an “R” in the VIN. The price you pay for such a vehicle should reflect this lack of originality... Good original driver Boss’s should be available in the $40k+ price point. You have to decide what is important to you in a Boss forvthe $$$ you want to spend. Good luck in your search.

A girl’s Car? LOL OK... I was considering your point’s until I read that statement... I see other comments here re: Baby blue being less then acceptable to some. What everyone here needs to remember is that there are many owner’s on this site with green, baby blue, pastel blue, blah blah, blah. Not very helpful IMO. Whatever...

M9Powell. Yes, I agree that there were anomalies on the assembly line. My point was simply that if the car was assembled correctly, no honeycomb. To add credence to your thought, my 71 J Code Vert came with the NACA hood/ ram air and is being supported by non ram air hood springs. Sure they could have been changed out before I got the car, however, the date code of the hinges were correct for the build date of my car as well as the overall patina of the hinges and springs. So, I left them on the car when I restored it. The key as I see it for the impending critical reviews by the experts... is being able to show proof ie. history showing the part installed many years ago. In my case, I took pictures before restoring the car, along with the part mfr. date code within 60 day’s of the car’s build date. This gives some ability to have a discussion about how the car may have left the factory. As for this car, it would be nice if there were some old pictures that came with the car’s paperwork showing the honey comb piece installed back in the day. Silence the critic’s...

Nice piece. If I was doing a factory rotisserie restoration, would definitely consider, but negotiations a must....

I think it's more that it's on the high end of the price spectrum for a '72, and not one of the more desirable color combinations. Green on green with a standard interior is a tough sell for the majority. Nothing wrong with green on green, or for that matter brown on brown, blue on blue... The colour will not determine the final price of the car today; the option list and more importantly, the overall condition of the car.

I can lift mine no more then 56” off the ground... I will also look at a rolling chair Setup when the time comes. When there’s the will, there is a way...

Quite simply, I don’t trust the quick jack construction over the long term. When I restored my J Code Vert I purchased a Babco scissor lift. Very well built and worked great for the restoration. I even managed to install the dual exhaust while on this ( would not recommend though...). This past winter I purchased a 3500kg (7000 lb) 4-post strictly to store a car on. Not to say I won’t use it to work under from time to time, but, my ceiling height restricts me from raising a car to the highest point. I would raise it enough to lay under if needed. In most cases, I would use the scissor hoist for repair work. I don’t trust 2-post lifts...

Prince George, British Columbia, Canada... Pretty sure the brown Fastback would be a 351 2V Ram Air car ( maybe a 4V with the optional hood black out). Notice the non upgraded wheel’s... The brown Coupe beside it looks like a Grande based on the hub cap’s along with a vinyl roof...

No I said NO Chrome in 73 so they gave you an Argent front bumper. I have the build sheet for mine stating that on the bottom. I sent a copy to Marti and he said was first he had ever known of that. He never got the Special paint records. We have another member right now restoring a Black special Paint 73 he thought someone had painted the bumper argent, it had original paint. No you said CHROME... this is where we got off on the wrong foot...Ray and I doubted that Ford would put a Chrome bumper on a 73 as it would not be tested for the new crash rules and you got all bent out of shape Don, I read his response as being correct for ‘73 car’s. What am I missing here? Thx.

1. Factory Parts 2. Used Factory Parts 3. Re-conditioned Factory Part’s 4. NOS Factory Parts 5. Upgrade the lame Factory dash speaker with an “aftermarket” replacement :-/

Factory ordered ‘71 J Code car’s came with the factory NACA hood paint scheme and chrome hood lock’s. I guess, back in the day one could ask the factory to delete the hood paint scheme as part of a special order request, but, there would be paperwork to back this up. My ‘71 J Code Vert has this hood paint/lock set up and this is the only additional colour on the car besides the body Pastel Blue colour.

I’m in the same boat on my ‘71 Vert. I’ve left it blank for now... I think there is someone on this site that has produced his own with a high degree of success. It’s hard to get many of these key stamps, hence some making their own.