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7173Vert

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Everything posted by 7173Vert

  1. In ‘71, the rear seat belts (all four pieces)on my Vert came up from the rear of the seat, therefore, no cut indentation’s in the actual rear side interior panels as seen on later years. Additionally, the 71 Vert’s did not come with the rear passenger side ashtray unless you upgraded to an interior optioned package… So finding exact replacement interior rear panels for my car was a challenge… Initially, after searching for nearly three years, I was unable to locate factory original replacements that were in near NOS condition, so I restored the originals in my car c/w the speaker covers. Then one day on ehay, I came across a set that had been pulled out of a car 30 years ago and stored… Buy it now price: $200 including shipping… I live in Canada and the seller honoured the shipping inclusion (which in my estimation would have cost at least $100, if not more due to the package size). Great score IMO. The only down side was that they are vermillion and I will have to unfortunately redo them in white. I have now pulled the originals and will now start the process of changing over to these exceptionally nice and rare… 71 only interior rear panels. Other then still having to change out the “BELTS” light on the dash (another rare and near NOS piece I was able to acquire a couple years ago), this changeover will complete the interior restoration of the car. It’s a bit of work as you have to install a new windlace piece in matching colour and the top window chrome/felt piece. These were stapled into place at the factory and I ensure the staples are reused on the new panels. PIA, but must be done. I’ll update this if anyone is interested when I am finished the switchover.
  2. In my experience, 99% of them are less then a 100 point restoration. These are one of the toughest car’s to restore back to factory, so the majority choose not too. Hat’s off to those who take on this difficult challenge to try and preserve the original history of some these car’s…
  3. Good tip, like to see them kept “original” where possible.
  4. Proof is in the pudding…. I bought the car in July, 2015; it was delivered in early September. I drove it only once in later September, about 10 miles - it was in rough shape. After that drive I started the complete tear down and restoration of the car. Finished it (the main portion, anyway) in the Fall, 2017. From that time forward the car basically sat (I did try to drive it from time to time, but I knew the carb was hurting the engine if I ran it too long) due to the Q-Jet issues I previously noted here on occasion. It was very frustrating, to say the least. As I noted here recently, I was able to get the carburetor sorted with the help of a GM expert on these carbs. A couple days ago I felt confident enough to take her on the highway for the first time… It ran really well. Although not shown here, I did step on it on the return trip home on this highway. The 4 barrels kicked in nicely. Helped to clean out all the carbon deposits from previous ill running episodes, the main reason I decided to take her on the highway… The car showed 95,894 miles on it when I bought it in 2015. If you look closely in the video, you will see the current miles on it 6 years later… Sure, I drive ‘em like I stole ‘em, lol. Not the best video, but nonetheless, an achievement for myself and this car, long overdue. Cheers
  5. I wonder if they get their kits from Precision Exhaust in Connecticut… I had the same problem with the H-pipe on my former 73 Vert. I had to take it to a local muffler shop to bend slightly. Good kit otherwise.
  6. I would, I put much more faith in the Factory Invoice then I do the Marti Report…
  7. Yes. That’s the one. USPO is fine, takes a little longer but gets the job done. A courier will work too, whatever is easier for you. Let me know the total and we can go from there? Thanks
  8. Hi. I'm very interested in the flex ducting. I can PayPal. Will you ship it to Canada (Postal Code L3B 0E4)? Thanks
  9. I could have owned this all original (at the time) 71 J Code Grande for $11k in 1990. Too rich for my blood back in the day. It swapped hands a couple times, the guy that bought it when I walked away, “restored” an all original, in already excellent shape car… I never understood why, but, it was his car. He sold it to the current owner who brought it to a local Mustang show today. I should have spent the $11k back in the day and I would have saved myself untold $1000’s I spent on other cars over the years… ce la vie)) Just thought I would post this rare car here, for those interested…
  10. I went through this on the timing cover a few tears back when I was rebuilding my original 429 engine. My original timing cover had a hole on the backside, apparently common with theses covers… Like you, I wanted the correct C8 part number. Ther were many D… number covers available, the C8’s are becoming harder to find in good shape. I did find an NOS Cover in 2016, I think I paid a $100 for it. Luckily, my oil pan was in pretty good and indented shape. Can’t say that about the rest of the engine… I’m sure there are C8’s covers out there, post on the Ford Engine BB engine sites too. As a side note, The only dented part on my car today is the original gas tank… It was so clean inside, I decided, the hell with it, I’m going to keep the original tank on the car, battle scars and all…
  11. Installed the new A/C clutch bearing today. I did order an additional aftermarket complete clutch and coil assembly as back up, but I wanted to keep the original C9 Ford Pt# piece on the car… The new $27 bearing plus a few hours of careful tedious work paid off. I painted the assembly and will reinstall on the car and then the engine bay will lose its high pitched sound… The original bearing lasted great, but you can feel the dried up internal grease and hear the obvious slight grinding…this want going to end well if I didn’t address it soon. The fact the car hasn’t been run much the past few years, gave me little motivation to address this, but now it is a different story.
  12. Thanks Steve, I figured you would chime in when you had the time as you love these Ford part's dilemmas that pop up... I did put a second response above where I clarified my position. I'm not taking any chances with the J Code Vert. The bigger D2 assembly will work as a replacement on my 73 Coupe if I ever need it, so it is still nice to have. Thanks for the input, as always!
  13. Well I’m interested in this so I’ll reply to myself, lol. As noted in the picture below the larger 302/351 clutch assembly will not work on the 429 car’s. I’ll just leave it at that… The second picture shows the considerable size difference between the two pieces. The 429 set up is about 6” across.The 302/351 unit is about 7 7/8” across. The width dimensions are similar. Additionally, but not shown here, the actual clutch mechanism and belt pulley size is different by about 1/4” in circumference width. This would equate to an rpm difference in pulley operation as well as possible belt size difference. There is a difference on the idler and adjustment pullies between the engine sets ups ( hence why the larger AC clutch pulley was hitting the bolt in the picture below). I’ve ordered a complete replacement coil and clutch assembly specific for my engine. I’ve also ordered a new clutch mechanism bearing that I will install in my orig C9 clutch assembly and then look to return it to the car in the future. For those that may have to go though this repair in the future on their car, a heads up: Buy a short 2”X5/8”x11 bolt in order to remove the clutch mechanism from the compressor.
  14. Ford used a different AC Clutch Assembly on the 302/351 and the 429 series engines. You can see the difference in the pulley counterweight although the rest of the magnetic clutch assembly appears to be the same. I’m sure it’s an engineering issue at the time, more then likely to do with the drain on the smaller engines when the magnetic clutch engaged. I guess they felt that the 429 could handle the power drain with a smaller pulley size. My original set up is whining (bearing) and of course I only have a NOS unit for the smaller engine on hand... I note that the bearing can be replaced (Motorcraft YP-20 PT#). NPD is out of stock… I'm looking for other alternatives at the moment. I was thinking of temporarily installing the larger one on my car until I can get the bearing and then re & re on my clutch assembly… I dont see an issue unless someone here feels otherwise? Thoughts?
  15. https://youtube.com/shorts/8YBYbNLMDdA?feature=share Final tuning of the rebuilt Q -Jet Carburetor completed.
  16. Even the points were still in great shape, I just cleaned them up and reused. I did have a new NOS condenser to install. I’ve kept your thoughts previously on this subject in the back of my mind regarding the use of Pertronix over the factory installed points. Currently both my Mustang’s are running fine on points… It’s all in the details of setting them up properly.
  17. Just went through this thread... Great job so far!
  18. Thanks. I would not have been able to accomplish this on my own. I tried a few things over the years, checking float levels, obstructions, etc. No luck. But, I knew, even with my limited interior carburetor tuning abilities, that the issue was inside the carburetor itself. I checked numerous times over the past four years; all the usual suspects, timing, spark, and anytime I tried to adjust the carburetor itself, it would not allow me to make any changes. It just kept dumping excess fuel into the engine at idle, mid range, acceleration…. I noted previously that I had sent the carburetor down to another well known Q-Jet rebuilder in Texas. They had good Facebook reviews… It didn’t work, the carburetor acted exactly the same when I returned it to the car last Fall. $700 Cdn… I was hellbent on using this correct carburetor for my car, to the point that the car sat the past four years, as you know. So, I decided to search out the best Q-Jet restorer anywhere…. . I joined a Facebook Quadrajet page and I put my dilemma out there for comment. Of course some joked, FORD, fix or repair daily…. I reminded them that it was a GM part that was faulty, all the rest of the Ford was good to go… I posted a video showing the carburetor operating and got many different opinions, which was no surprise. But, one commenter indicated an astute knowledge concerning how mine was running. This was Ray Klemm. We spoke a bit offline and he tried to explain to me what needed to be done. Of course, I didn’t have access to the parts and expertise necessary to carry out what he was explaining to me. When I told him this, he indicated he would be happy to help me in any way possible. I asked if I could take another chance and send the complete carburetor down to him for his review, I would be happy to pay the necessary fees associated with his time, etc. He said that I had been already taken advantage of for $100’s of $$ last year and he would be happy to do this at no labour costs to me. I sent it down and he found a number of concerns, based on the engine specs I gave him for my 429cj engine. This was the difference, as the previous rebuilder didn’t ask any questions about my engine… The following is what he found: Incorrectly installed jets and metering rods (relating to sizing). Incorrectly sized needle and seat assembly. The secondary throttle plates were not closing properly on the left side and the shaft was slightly twisted. He changed the jets from a 73 to a 72 The idle tubes were changed from .035” to .033” DCR (I don’t know what this means?) went from .043” to .046” Lower air idle bleeds from .070” to .067” and he left the upper idle air bleeds at .034” He then took the carburetor to his friend and mentor Cliff’s High Performance who he had worked for in the past. There, Ray went through the situation with Cliff, they then ran the carb on an engine to ensure it was operating properly. A few more adjustments at Cliff’s and back up North it came to me. If there are any other C or J Code guys here still running the factory Q-Jet and you need an honest guy to help you: CRK Performance - RayKlemm O/A Mount Vernon, Ohio 440-537-8764 lonewlf455bird@gmail.com Tell him I referred you, he will treat you well and get your carb working as it should. So Chuck, I know you like details… I hope this was satisfactory))
  19. Definitely… The car God’s are not pleased but don’t take it out on me, should have sent a bolt of lightening to the Ford Engineer who came up with the cost saving measure back in 1970 when they first started installing these on the 429 car’s… They are very finicky carburetors but once dialed in are pretty reliable. A big Mustang show here on the 29th so I will be aiming to bring it to its first show there, weather permitting. Cheers
  20. A quick update as this car has sat the last four years while I tried to figure out the Q-Jet Carburetor issues. Long story short; I sent it down South of the Border a second time to see if it could be fixed. Ray Klemm out of Ohio graciously ( he did not charge me for his time) offered to help me correct the long standing idle issues. Happy to report that he was successful and the car now has a proper idle circuit operation on the Q-Jet. I was very fortunate that the carb wasn’t severely damaged in the return trip back to Canada, as the box looked like it had been kicked all the way back home(((. There was some minor damage to the carb, but fortunately I was able to fix it. Now I can move forward on completing the car to my personal standards. It does need a new AC compressor clutch mechanism (engagement) replacement ( you can hear the whine of the bearings in the video). Also, some basic belt tightening, etc. I’m a very happy camper today, steadfast perseverance has paid off today. https://youtu.be/Sg28B3oU9o0
  21. Rvr covered it pretty good. I’ll add the use of a scissor lift if you are doing lots of general maintenance. The good thing about the scissor lift is that most cars can drive right over them for parking purposes when not in use. Of course my convertible in the picture can’t because it has the factory 14” wheels and the factory look exhaust I had made has one bend that sits a little lower. I made a set of ramps to drive on when bringing this car over the lift. I’m very wary of two posts for the reasons noted above. Lots of options out there…
  22. Agreed, hence why I would not risk my hood or trunk lid. So what are you going to put between the metal pieces?
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