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Everything posted by 7173Vert

  1. Never had a cable break in 40+ years of numerous 71-3 Mustang ownership. I did have a “frayed” 429cj cable that I used for 20 years on my car in the 90’s and 2000’s. Could never find a factory replacement for that car...
  2. A local company here in Toronto called Speciality Carburetor. I haven’t driven it enough yet to know if the rebuild was successful. I did find it easy to adjust after the rebuild, ie: the idle mixture screws reacted appropriately when I was adjusting using a vacuum gauge. So far so good.
  3. Hmmm. I've seen his name mentioned before also in a good way. I had mine recently rebuilt locally by a carb guy that did my Q-Jet carb for my J-Code back in 1994. Cost me $350, but not finished to show quality, which I was not looking for on my 73 Q Code. So far so good, as the car is running normal. Have not really had it out yet for a real good run and test, so we will see. The price Tom charges including shipping would equate to over a grand in our funny money... It adds up... Good find though!
  4. Other then small parts with a rattle can... I learned the hard way years ago. I wussed out and paid to have my car and engine bay painted. A man has got to know his limitations... sometimes we are destined to learn through our mistakes. Good luck with the re-do.
  5. A couple housekeeping things: I mention in the video changing the tie rod end links... meant to say the stabilizer bar end links. )) I also hinted at changing out the front end, in fact, it is the original front end except for the aforementioned stabilizer end links, and new brakes. The rear end is the same, just the stabilizer bar end links and new brakes. This is a 45K original mi car, so the original suspension is in very good shape. I also failed to mention that I did change out to the Hi-Po LED bulbs in the interior, big difference... Finally, when I refer to "completely original;" it means "original look and operation where possible" )).
  6. The quality of those pieces from NPD is excellent, or at least it was a couple years ago.
  7. Brings back some bad memories... In 1994, I just had my J Code Mach freshly painted in its original Light Pewter Metallic. I only had a single car garage at the time and there was a work bench at the back with a bench vice installed. You know where this is going... To fit the car in the garage, I had to back it in and make sure the vice was always in the closed position. Backing the car in I hear "crunch", yep backed right into the vice and dented the rear deck lid. I had left it open 4". "Oh fudge" is putting it lightly, concerning my reaction at the time. Hope your repair goes smoothly!
  8. Well..., that changes the context of my earlier comment. But, you get gist👍
  9. Wow. Tucson was the 429 Vert Capital, or the Pastel Blue Capital... Of the 42 - 71 429 convertibles produced, 4 were Pastel Blue. That’s a pretty high % for a colour that wasn’t really that popular. Yes, the blackout on the hood and the hood locks were part of the J Code ( Ram Air option). Wonder where that car wound up, sounds like it was treated better then mine...
  10. I did contact the AZ Dept of Motor Vehicles. No dice... Similar privacy issues as here in Ontario, Canada. Didn’t try the WA State office, figured it would be the same. You hope someone sees the car like Sheriff41 above did and they provide their recollection.
  11. Interesting. I would suspect this would be that car then. Very few made and the odds of another Pastel Blue 429cjr convertible in Tucson at that time would be high... The car was apparently taken by his son who moved it to The Spokane, WA area and stored in the barn for years as seen in the Mustang Monthly Cover page. A local dealer bought it from him and I then purchased it from the dealer. I wanted to touch base with the Son to discuss the history of the car, but the dealer would not give me any info... As you note, the car was in Tucson in the 70’s and based on the condition I received it in, it had been driven hard in its previous life... Thanks for the note.
  12. I think I had two by that time... The car has been on the scissor lift for three months now. Just these little jobs left of hooking up some interior pieces to get the car completed and back riding on its own rubber. Just a dumb mistake. The hardest part was finding new 4 amp glass fuses. I had to go to my local store and order one pack of five... Another 24 hr wait for these to come in. Like your sense of humour in any event...
  13. Yes. Figured that out this morning.... When in a rush, take a step back and think. All good now. Thanks.
  14. Just going through a bit of this now. Changed out my gauge cluster to the Hi-Po LED’s, worked great. Then changed out the original AM radio to an AM Cassette I had. Now the 4amp gauge cluster and other lights fuse keeps blowing... I’m wondering if how I hooked up the AM Cassette to the original AM power supply lead is causing the problem? I hooked the main power and the unit ground wire to the plug... When I check with a test light, I don’t seem to have any power at the 4 amp fuse circuit at all now, no matter where the key is turned too. I haven’t looked at the electrical diagram yet, but, it is something to do with the radio install as that 4 amp light circuit was working fine before I thought I was an electrician...
  15. I have never cared what other people thought about the 71-3’s... I like them, would never own any other. Nothing wrong with the 73’s either....
  16. All the tech guys here that have walked away from the 4300... Interesting. I would think that the carb on my car must have been reliable having been on the car for 48 years before finally giving out. It would have been swapped out years ago by previous owners if they had the problems that some have encountered here. I guess they were one of the lucky one’s. I am somewhat surprised at the poor status given these carbs by this group. I’m not really hearing about specific issues with the carb, more so about not being able to set it up properly. Maybe it’s justified, I will find out one way or the other. In the meantime I will search out a second 4300D carb to keep the car on the road and original. I’ll then keep tinkering, researching and learning on this carb in all forums until I can come to my own conclusion. I’ll let you know the end result...
  17. Ok... However, not willing to throw it in the garbage because some don’t like this carb. I’ll keep at it and hopefully find a way to bring it back to life. Process of elimination. Once you put another carb on it, the originality is gone... Thought I would try here to see others experiences in keeping them running. A couple good comments to consider...
  18. Yes... You bring back some bad memories for me with those crap panels. I swear, they were so bad on the fitment, you have to wonder what the company was thinking. What made it worse was their initial refusal to take them back, stating that I was the only complaint they had received.... In the end, I got my money back through PayPal, but, I had to pay for shipping to return the crap back. The only real bad experience I had considering the 10’s of 1000’s of $$$ I spent on restoring my car.
  19. Well that’s inspiring, lol. I’ve heard about the concerns with these carbs, what can you do when you are trying to keep it original. I was pretty careful when measuring the float tabs. The main inlet required a 1/16th adjustment and the auxiliary was fine. I personally do not see the need for the auxiliary, especially on a street car. I’ll look at the power valve a little closer as well. I actually find the carb easy to work on compared to the Q-Jet on my Vert. Thx.
  20. I plan on it, but, apparently it has been fine for 48 years. It is the original fuel pump. The only thing I changed between the pump and carb was the fuel filter. It was an old Motorcraft filter and I put on an aftermarket. However, thinking about it more, this is also when I blew out the aluminum cap at the front of the fuel inlet on the carb when I first started the engine after completing the work on the car over the winter. Have to wonder if this plug issue plus the fact the carb is now flooding has to do with some unknown issue with the fuel pump now pushing harder then it ever has... What is the factory setting on the fuel pump, 4-5psi? I will also look to replacing the pump with a spare and see what happens. Thx.
  21. I’m chasing a stubborn flooding problem on my original 4300D carburetor. After having it a part a couple times to check for obvious signs of possible issues, I’m still having the problem, Basically, the car fires right up and as it is warming up, the carb is generally operating fine. About two minutes in, it starts to stumble and I see fuel oozing out of the accelerator pump (top) and if I hit the accelerator, it shoots out of the available vents.... It is dumping into the engine based on the black carbon build up on the new plugs. I’ve changed out the needle assembly and whatever else I could that comes in the standard rebuild kit. I’ve set the float to 13/16ths as per spec. This carb also has the auxiliary fuel bowl inlet that is located just before the main inlet.It is also controlled by the main float operation. It appears to be set up properly also. Based on known flooding concerns with these carbs, I’ve read that it may be advisable to eliminate this by either soldering the inlet shut or purchasing a capped screw to replace it with. With respect to the float itself, it appears to be in good shape, apparently the only test you can do on this is to weigh it against factory specs. I don’t think this is the problem, yet. The fuel pump is the factory original installed unit and clearly is pumping fuel to the carb)). I’m curious if there is a knowledgeable 4300D guru on here that can offer me some pointers, If need be, I am looking at possibly sending it out for a professional rebuild, but have not yet found a place. If someone has a proven recommendation, that would be helpful. I am also looking to buy an already rebuilt unit known to be in good ready to go operation. Again, if someone has a source, please let me know. I spent the past three months working on this car to get it ready for the summer and now I am stuck with it on the scissor lift until I can correct this last carb issue. The good news is I did get the valve seals changed, the heater core that had been previously capped off is in fact in good working order today. Completed required maintenance of the cooling system, retained the dual point set up, all of the original emissions are cleaned up and back in place, complete new brakes all round, shocks replaced, suspension serviced, changed out all the fluids, etc. Just down to this stubborn carb issue... Anyone have good experience with theses 4300’s?
  22. Took me three years to find a near NOS set of 71 vert rear interior quarters and yes, they do not have the seat belt retractor cut outs and because my car did not have the interior upgrade (maybe referred to as the convenience option package, can’t recall right now); no passenger side ashtray either. The only downside is that they are a beautiful vermillion, and I have a white interior. I will have to repaint them one day. These specific interior panels are near extinct in very good condition today and the aftermarket is junk in my experience. If you find a pair, price may not need to be a consideration... Again, I was fortunate in this regard, I won this pair on ehay.... $200 including shipping North of the Border! But don’t worry, I have overpaid for far too many parts these last few years... so the odd “score” is a nice change. Good luck in your search.
  23. Thx. Steve. Makes sense. I used a two part epoxy and it held today to at least let me get the car running and warmed up. However, it is still bubbling fuel out the top of the carb near the accelerator pump. It appears the carb needs an overhaul. I am going to buy a remanf. One for the time being and send this in to be rebuilt properly. I want all the nice finishes))). On a side note, it appears that the previously disconnected heater core was in sound shape as it is holding pressure fine and the heat now works. The two outlets in the engine bay had been professionally covered up with nice fitting rubber plugs. This led me to believe that someone was protecting core, which they would not have bothered doing if it was leaking. A 48 year old carb that has never been rebuilt before, I guess, it owes the car nothing at this stage. Before I buy a replacement, I will disassemble to see how bad the float is, must have some severe sticking issues. If I can fix for the summer, great, if not, Plan B...
  24. A quick look at my 73 Coupe shows a rubber plug with a brownish wire coming out and connecting to the harness on the driver side of the engine behind the carb accelerator cable bracket.
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