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Bobby last won the day on December 20 2019

Bobby had the most liked content!

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1972 Mach 1 351C


  • Location
    League City, TX
  • Region

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  1. Hey MadMike, try looking at the QA1 TS 601. These are ride adjustable shocks with four settings. Drag Racing, Nice ride and handling, Firm ride & improved handling, Aggressive handling. I may use these on my 72. The attached instructions for this is from speedway motors. https://content.speedwaymotors.com/DigitalAssets/assets/testing/721TS601_INS_2021_1.pdf
  2. Hello and welcome from League City TX!!! I had a 78 Stang Too as well. Drove it my senior year in high school and up until 1987. No A/C and an anemic 140 inch 4 cylinder pooper. It was fun to drive and got good mileage but was an unreliable piece...... Anyway both bomb and snot look great except there are not enough pics!!!
  3. Welcome from League Ciry Texas! Need pics….need more pics!
  4. Glad to hear you have a good sense of humor about all of this. It is a labor of love and you just cannot get mad. Take a deeeep breath and order more parts! Hope all turns out well with the Mrs........... Oh....by the way.....nice bones! Thats always a plus on your build!
  5. Welcome from League City, TX! Nice ride. I'd like to meet up with yall as well! Let us know if you have any questions about parts to get your RAM air back in action!
  6. I do not believe that my car has the brace you are referring to. My Mustang had a full body restoration done back in the early 2000s. I have wiring running next to and underneath the battery tray. The battery tray is steel. I had to clean corrosion from the tray as the previous owner didn't keep up with this car and the battery leaked all over the place. I don't know if what I said helps. If you are reinstalling the factory wiring, make sure you inspect the wires carefully for deteriorated insulation and damage. Also note that previous owners all fancy themselves as wiring experts and actually do more harm than good when making mods or repairs. My wiring was so old and corroded plus ill advised mods that caused shorts and nonfuctioning brake lights and turn signal lights. It was a nightmare and I ended up replacing all the wiring throughout the whole car. It is near impossible to actually install wiring exactly as factory......especially if you've had many previous owners that did not document what they've done. There are multiple wiring schematics listed on line but they are poor quality and may not actually represent what you have in your mustang.
  7. Hey Jerry, Are you using the original wiring harness? if you are, there is usually few options. Running the wire exactly how it was coming from the factory is really not necessary. The only restriction is running it in a fashion that would minimize damage to due moving parts or heat. I ran new wiring to electric fans right under or next to the battery tray using plenty of zip ties to keep the bundle of wire together. If you run short you can always butt splice additional wire to complete your wire run.
  8. Wow! She is a Beaute! Hello and welcome from League City TX! I placed my MDS ignition box on the passenger side mounted on frame where the radiator and condenser is mounted where there is plenty of room. I also installed the repro plenum on the hood. A word of caution though. There is a height restriction associated with it. The intake manifold has to be short similar to the factory intake. Also, aftermarket distributors have giraffe necks and will clash with the Ram Air air cleaner assembly. The only way I got it work was to stay with the factory distributor. Its definitely a trial and error effort! Good luck!!
  9. Welcome from League City, TX! Very nice ride. Is this a 72??
  10. I had replace my gas tank about two years ago and put in a repro sender and all was good. My my tach had to be rebuilt when I got my Mach 1 rewired since it was designed to work in series with the ignition system it was a serious point of failure. If the tach ever failed, the engine would not run. The rebuilt tach had issues right away and would intermittently bounce back and forth from 1500 to 2000 rpm. I then decided to replace all the gauges since the alternator gauge didn’t work either. Anyway as those things go, you fix one problem and immediately create another. The new fuel gauge was giving crazy readings. I called Autometer tech support and they said that the problem was the aftermarket repro sending unit. The resistance readings between the old sender an new were the same at full and empty but different every where else. The only fix was to get on OEM sender or return the new unit back to be rebuilt to work with the repro sender. That would change the color and create a mismatch. I found a new old stock sender on eBay and installed it and sure enough, works good now. So I have all the old gauges stored.
  11. Hey, just found your post on the fuel gauge. I updated my cluster with new Autometer gauges. I have saved my old gauges and you are welcome to my old fuel gauge if you can’t get yours operational. I’m down in League City.
  12. BTW, restoration is a long term project requiring a year or two. Replacement parts are hit or miss. Sometime take weeks to get parts only to realize that they are wrong, incomplete, dont fit or way out of spec. Some shops will promise to finish work within a few days or a week will then take months. Be careful of the resto shop and look around and get referrals. Patience is required!
  13. Nice Story! Restore it lovingly in memory of your friend. Welcome from League City TX. Good luck with the resto. It is a labor of love!
  14. Given the lack of availability and the very high cost IF one could be found, we're still looking at a 50 to 60 year old piece of collapsable rubber that may not inflate properly. No replacement rubber is available that I know of and the inflator bottles are even more rare.....IF they would actually hold air. I would rather stick with a reliable spare with new rubber and is already properly inflated so peace of mind is assured. Still looking for solutions and one of them is is to purchase a new J hook tie down from NPD but that would require dropping the gas tank to drill holes to secure the new tie down.....or weld......
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