Bobby

Hello from League City Texas! Sweet ride! More pics and engine shots!

I do not believe that my car has the brace you are referring to. My Mustang had a full body restoration done back in the early 2000s. I have wiring running next to and underneath the battery tray. The battery tray is steel. I had to clean corrosion from the tray as the previous owner didn't keep up with this car and the battery leaked all over the place. I don't know if what I said helps. If you are reinstalling the factory wiring, make sure you inspect the wires carefully for deteriorated insulation and damage. Also note that previous owners all fancy themselves as wiring experts and actually do more harm than good when making mods or repairs. My wiring was so old and corroded plus ill advised mods that caused shorts and nonfuctioning brake lights and turn signal lights. It was a nightmare and I ended up replacing all the wiring throughout the whole car. It is near impossible to actually install wiring exactly as factory......especially if you've had many previous owners that did not document what they've done. There are multiple wiring schematics listed on line but they are poor quality and may not actually represent what you have in your mustang.

Hey Jerry, Are you using the original wiring harness? if you are, there is usually few options. Running the wire exactly how it was coming from the factory is really not necessary. The only restriction is running it in a fashion that would minimize damage to due moving parts or heat. I ran new wiring to electric fans right under or next to the battery tray using plenty of zip ties to keep the bundle of wire together. If you run short you can always butt splice additional wire to complete your wire run.

Wow! She is a Beaute! Hello and welcome from League City TX! I placed my MDS ignition box on the passenger side mounted on frame where the radiator and condenser is mounted where there is plenty of room. I also installed the repro plenum on the hood. A word of caution though. There is a height restriction associated with it. The intake manifold has to be short similar to the factory intake. Also, aftermarket distributors have giraffe necks and will clash with the Ram Air air cleaner assembly. The only way I got it work was to stay with the factory distributor. Its definitely a trial and error effort! Good luck!!

Welcome from League City, TX! Very nice ride. Is this a 72??

I had replace my gas tank about two years ago and put in a repro sender and all was good. My my tach had to be rebuilt when I got my Mach 1 rewired since it was designed to work in series with the ignition system it was a serious point of failure. If the tach ever failed, the engine would not run. The rebuilt tach had issues right away and would intermittently bounce back and forth from 1500 to 2000 rpm. I then decided to replace all the gauges since the alternator gauge didn’t work either. Anyway as those things go, you fix one problem and immediately create another. The new fuel gauge was giving crazy readings. I called Autometer tech support and they said that the problem was the aftermarket repro sending unit. The resistance readings between the old sender an new were the same at full and empty but different every where else. The only fix was to get on OEM sender or return the new unit back to be rebuilt to work with the repro sender. That would change the color and create a mismatch. I found a new old stock sender on eBay and installed it and sure enough, works good now. So I have all the old gauges stored.

Hey, just found your post on the fuel gauge. I updated my cluster with new Autometer gauges. I have saved my old gauges and you are welcome to my old fuel gauge if you can’t get yours operational. I’m down in League City.

BTW, restoration is a long term project requiring a year or two. Replacement parts are hit or miss. Sometime take weeks to get parts only to realize that they are wrong, incomplete, dont fit or way out of spec. Some shops will promise to finish work within a few days or a week will then take months. Be careful of the resto shop and look around and get referrals. Patience is required!

Nice Story! Restore it lovingly in memory of your friend. Welcome from League City TX. Good luck with the resto. It is a labor of love!

Given the lack of availability and the very high cost IF one could be found, we're still looking at a 50 to 60 year old piece of collapsable rubber that may not inflate properly. No replacement rubber is available that I know of and the inflator bottles are even more rare.....IF they would actually hold air. I would rather stick with a reliable spare with new rubber and is already properly inflated so peace of mind is assured. Still looking for solutions and one of them is is to purchase a new J hook tie down from NPD but that would require dropping the gas tank to drill holes to secure the new tie down.....or weld......

Hey Mustang Guys! I have a 15 inch wheel and tire spare to match the 14 inch spec tire and wheel and I actually have 17 inch Torq Thrush wheels with Cooper Zeon tires to match height spec..... I do not have a fold down rear seat back. When I put together the spare tire package, I was unaware that our Mustangs used a collapsable spare tire with a factory charged compressed air bottle to expand the spare. I thought that that silliness was a more modern lack of thinking noting the compact spares that are now an option!!!.....unless you specify that option at the dealership....anyway, my spare combo is huge in comparison with the rinky dink trunk I have on my 72 Mach 1. The aftermarket J-hook tie down doesn't work very well because it would cause my spare tire to conflict with space in the trunk with my right rear stereo speaker. Without it being secured somehow, the chances that the spare would move around and damage my tail lights is relatively high. Any ideas on how to properly secure this spare?

She looks great and well cared for. Any plans for this ride once she’s in your stable?

Hi and Welcome! Nice Ride! What kind of EFI system are you using and what tank? I have been considering doing the same for my 72 Mach 1 but the roadblock is mostly the gas tank and an exterior electric fuel pump. Options for 71 to 73 Mustangs are few......

Welcome from Texas! Very slick! I have no doubt that folks give you the thumbs up. I get the same! More details if you would and of course........more pics!

Welcome from Texas! Nice reunion! Post pics and your work ideas.

Welcome from League City Texas! Post more pics and let us know what your pony has under the hood, tranny, etc. Interior pics would be good too!

Hey Dude! Welcome from League City Texas! post some pics and more info. eBay has your bumper! Search for 1973 Mustang front bumper. I tried to load the link but it wont open. Always check eBay as parts are always available from time to time. Admire your dedication to your Stang!

Welcome from League City TX! Very NICE! More pics please!

Welcome from League City TX! Tell us more about your slick pony! What year, coding and your efforts.

Welcome from League City, TX. Sounds like you have the drive and will to learn. Good luck and post more pics!

Welcome from League City Texas! looks like a good barn save. Like to know how you do on the 4 speed conversion.

Welcome from League City, TX! She looks wonderful! Post more pics when you take delivery.

What kind or brand of carb do you have? Different carb manufacturers have particular problems. Sounds as though there may be a fuel flow problem from the pump or maybe your floats inside the carb need to be adjusted.

Welcome from League City TX! She shore is sweet looking! Post more pics of the side, interior and most of all.....the engine!

Welcome from League City TX! Nice clean ride. Keep the pics coming. Status the restoration when you can with lotsa pics!