Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mustang convertible


  • Location
    United States
  • Region

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

GATORMAN's Achievements


Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. Hi Will E. I took your advice and had some Golden west subframes put in a about a year ago. I had put in a new front steering, tie rods, control arms etc and still felt float and flex. Since the new subframes so much improved handling. Thanks for the suggestion. Since buying in Fall of 2017, I have replaced tires, front end, fuel pump, radiator, heater core, leaf springs, shocks, mufflers (wanted a little more rumble), sub frames, and deep cycle battery (why not). Replaced a lot of gaskets originally as the car sat idle for about 5 years You upgraded your headers and I am torn torn between headers (performance), rims (appearance), or air condition re-install (return to stock). I think what would give me the biggest smile would be headers and interested on your satisfaction with your hooker headers. Thanks Welcome from Tampa, love the color :cool:
  2. I added the 6 bolt Corsa Feroce wheel, but to make it work had to take off the "button" on top of the column shaft and have the hub necked down on a lathe 1/8th an inch. Looks good and works well but wish there was a more bolt on type application.
  3. Welcome from Tampa, Florida
  4. I bought them direct from United Pacific. Tried the "jeep style" LEDs, looked cool but weren't great for me. Make sure you get some in line resistors if you are adding other led/plasma bulbs elsewhere. Spliced into my keyed powers so the run when the car is "on". Driving light is bright (very much like new Volvos'), work great in the Florida sunshine.
  5. Sorry to hear (harder to see) Totally sucks, but if you are healthy you have the ability to rebuild, hope it turns out ok with the insurance.
  6. Interested in the fan shroud as well as the overflow, please PM me whit price and shipping to Tampa, Florida
  7. It would be the plastic block assembly that secures that center trim. Lazarus has pointed me in a direction, hopefully will be able to get my hands on the kit, if not will surely let you know
  8. Thanks to all, I have been lurking on the site for about a year when I purchased the car. My first car was a 1973 sports roof 302 that i should have never sold. Wife compromised on reliving my youth if I got a vert. The Marti report shows confirms the car as a number matching Q code with the Blue Glow paint, impossible to match CB medium blue interior, C-6 auto, 3.25 traction lock rear, competition suspension, Body side tape stripes, NASA TuTone hood. Instrument group, Decor group. Previous owners mods include Rod and Custom coil over front end, functional ram air, Tremec TKO 5 speed manual, AAW rewire with GM fuse block, Dakota Digital "digital" gauges, and a rebuilt (i have pics but no build sheet) engine with Edlebrock performer intake, carb, and cam. Engine has about 2,000 miles on it and is very strong. Body work and paint are great for 3/4 of the car, I will do my thing on the last 1/4. I have cleaned up the wiring, added a retro sound radio, plasma rear bulbs, United Pacific LED headlights with DDL light bar, and corrected the PO makeshift oil pan with a new Canton pan made for the Rod and Custom set up. I have mocked up and ready to install (pic attached) new Speedhut gauges to mimic stock. Thanks to the forum for all the threads on this subject, super helpful. New interior is next....blue is tough but that is my intention. Goal is a cool cruiser with a ripping engine. For all the vert owners, does anyone have the elusive "Top Boot Center Molding Retainer" extra to purchase or even one piece I can scan and turn in to a 3D printable file? These are the unicorn of vert parts.....
  • Create New...