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slowpoke17

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Everything posted by slowpoke17

  1. I'm trying to finish the restoration on my 73 coupe. I'm missing the shift linkage that connects the shift lever to the transmission lever. The car has a 302 engine with the C4 automatic transmission. Does anybody have a picture of what this looks like? Preferably an installed picture would be very helpful.
  2. I know what your saying, normally that's an issue. I have everything inside in a spare room off the garage that is climate controlled and away from possible damage. Here are some of the parts waiting for install.
  3. Thanks for all the input, some food for thought right now. When I consider all the money I've spent on parts and now have everything pretty much ready to go the hard part is being physically able to complete it. I've contemplated having it completed and running through a shop but the added expense only added to the amount of loss when sold. I always knew they weren't that valuable so my being able to do most of the work made it feasible. With the car purchase and all the new parts I've invested about $6 grand. I guess we didn't get into this hobby to get rich!
  4. I have a 73 coupe that I bought a few years ago. Slowly been rebuilding it but I'm at a point where I can't spend the time I need to to finish it. The car is solid with no rust, only 57k on the clock. I have a complete new interior ready to install, front drum brake to be replaced with new disc brake conversion, new power booster, all new lines etc. New complete fuel system minus the gas cap. Rebuilt 302 with 0 miles ready for install. New Cooper Cobra tires with new American racing wheels. Just wondering what I could possibly get for this, more info to follow when I can get home.
  5. I'm repainting the doors and jambs on my 73 and in the process the blue label with all the vehicle information got ruined. I just happened to have a photo of it but there are no dimensions with it. I'm going to have it replicated but I need the dimensions. Can someone measure their blue label, drivers door and let me know what size to make it? Thanks you.
  6. I've been slowly restoring this car and finally started working on the interior. The original headliner is separating where the seams are, looks like the thread just deteriorated. The easy fix would be a one piece headliner but I can't find a supplier for a regular coupe. The original style headliner is relatively inexpensive but installation requires removing front and rear windshields. The one piece is much easier to install but more costly. Does anyone know where you can buy an ABS one piece headliner for 70-73 coupes? I called TMI and their product is fastback only. I would think the difference would be minimal so why not have another product out there, I'm sure demand would be there.
  7. Here's some pictures which might help. dice roller free
  8. I've been slowly making progress trying to get this car back together, going through the box of parts I've come across another one that I can't locate. Can someone tell me where this goes? It's my first vintage Mustang so please be kind! I'm also including some pics of my progress s far. Thanks for the help.
  9. Thanks for all the replies and reading suggestions! Interesting to see how it works. I'll wait to finish this work, as it is now the stud doesn't even poke through the cap. Hopefully this summer the new engine goes in.
  10. Purchased new front KYB 4504 shocks and after trying to install them they seem too short. I still don't have the engine in the car and its on my lift now. The stud barely reaches the shock tower cap. If I jack it up under the ball joint will it come up enough to install the rubber and hardware? Its about 1 1/2" too short.
  11. I bought some new end links and bushings for the stabilizer bar. The old bushings were a softer rubber and stretched over the large end of the bar. The new ones are a solid hard rubber with no give at all. Is there a secret to getting these on or do they need to be cut and slipped over the bar? I've watched some youtube videos and they are all cut and easy to install. Grease doesn't help either. Thanks.
  12. I purchased a 73 with Medium Yellow as the original color. I like yellow cars so I decided to keep it yellow, just not the same medium yellow as it looked like too light. More like a yellow wanna be so the new color is like the Grabber Yellow.
  13. Very good information, thank you. Funny how much there is to learn on this journey!
  14. I did but by the time I got around to reading and installing the damper in the new engine, the old one was long gone. Since it came with the new damper I never thought of removing the old one (and spacer) before turning in the core. I did check out some vendors to see if this was a common item and I found several different width crankshaft pulley spacers available. They have all different offsets to I just need to figure that out. This was in the one for 1" offset. "Replace the old or damaged crank pulley spacer on your 289, 302 or 351W engine with this high-quality 1" 4-Bolt Crank Pulley Spacer 1433 from March Performance!"
  15. Sorry for he double photos and missing pic. Ran out of time and couldn't correct it or he orientation. The crank pulley has 3 channels on it. Hopefully his pic will come in. number generator app
  16. I purchased the 3 belts for the engine and went to install them just to make sure they fit properly. Found the diagram and then discovered the pulleys don't line up. The rebuilt 302 has a ProStreet harmonic balancer on it, I can't compare the depth to the original as I never had one. If you look at the pictures you can see the gap if I install the belts and let them hang straight down. Is there a spacer that should go between the crank pulley and damper? AC, PS and alternator all located where they belong and line up except on lower pulley. Bottom photo shows the gap between the damper and pulley.
  17. I tried facebook a few years ago. Not impressed and got tired quickly of hearing how everyone was having the worst day ever so I tapped out. No regrets since. Maybe because I'm older and not into all that social networking but I prefer it that way.
  18. You're a far braver man than I for tackling a tranny overhaul! Just too many parts for me to screw up! Thanks for the links, when the time comes I'll give them a call.
  19. I agree on getting a nationally well known shop to give me a quote as well. If his quote was a good amount lower it might be worth taking a chance to save some coin. If he's the same price I would take it to a transmission shop. If I do have a problem I want a written warranty. Maybe the $850 quote wasn't bad but all I end up with is his word on it being done right.
  20. I checked it out a little more thoroughly this afternoon. It's a deep brown inside and some of the fins have blue deposits running down so I'm assuming they were small leaks. The overflow tank was also really brown and thick. I also checked for any Ford logos or part numbers, all I found was a fill line marking. I can get a new matching radiator for around $175. My only question is how good are these new radiators with plastic tanks? This old one has is all metal.
  21. I checked with someone who posted on CL, told me $850 to refresh it! A bit steep I thought.
  22. As I'm slowly getting things together to hopefully start this car this summer, I'm thinking about my transmission. The car has been off the road for 17+ years and I've been told the transmission (C4 automatic) has been sitting in the trunk for some time now. I never did any transmission work or ever had to for that matter. I'm wondering what effects if any did this lack of use have on it? Should I take it to a shop and ask them to go over it and refresh it?
  23. From what I can tell the car I purchased sat off the road for about 17 years. The radiator had some nice green fluid in it when I pulled it out. If I can avoid it I'd rather not have to spend a couple of hundred on a new radiator. Is there a way to clean the internal core, looking in doesn't look that bad though. I can fill it and watch for leaks, let it soak and try to flush it clean. The overflow wasn't that bad either. Does anyone have some good tips on how to save this if possible?
  24. I ended up purchasing the complete conversion kit from CJ Pony/Scott Drake. Set me back $900, haven't had a chance to install anything yet but out of the box everything looks like good quality and heavy duty. I don't plan on doing anything to the rear except a drum brake refresh with new drums, cylinders, shoes etc. I'm just waiting for March to get here, I'll bring the car in the garage and get it up on the lift so I can start! I have a new gas tank, fuel and brake lines, new front brakes and some other work I need to get started on.
  25. Glad you got that issue sorted. Why that wrong sender is still listed for 71/73 Mustangs by many vendors, is beyond me. As for coating the tank, it's not necessary as it is terne coated, lead/tin alloy if I'm correct. If you want to do it, I'd do a small spot to make sure it sticks, but take some grease and wax remover and wipe it down. Duplicolor, for instance, have that so should be available anywhere that sells Dupicolor products. As for the underside of the trunk floor, depending on it's condition, you could spray it with a rubberized undercoating. Mine was pristine slop grey, so I just sprayed it with Fluid Film, a wax like product. While you're at it and I'm sure this has been mentioned, replace your fuel lines. I'd go with SS, but not really necessary especially if you can still get non-ethanol gas. Also, you may find you need to adjust the sender arm to read correctly. You probably have already read about this. I set mine for a 1/4 tank, i.e. 5 US gallons. Better to know when it's getting low than when full. Hope that helps, Geoff. I like the idea of undercoating the body after I take the tank out. I have new brake and fuel lines so that will make it a little easier to coat the entire area. I just need to get the Mustang out from my shed and my garage on the lift so I can get started. I've been stockpiling parts over the winter. Just waiting for March to come so my other cars don't sit outside.
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