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71coop

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71coop last won the day on April 26

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About 71coop

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool
  • Birthday 05/12/1967

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1971 Mach 1 - "Day 2" restoration
    1979 Corvette- Modified with what I call the "Trans Am" treatment

Location

  • Location
    Marysville Ohio
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. The 351c market is limited to a handful of consumers. The Cleveland is just not a readily available engine platform for the most part - compared to the Windsor-based options or Chevy SBC/BBC- based builds, there are not that many 351c engines in use out there, so not many people use them in their classic car or hot rod builds. Other aftermarket part availability also reflects this, for instance look at aftermarket head choice (i.e., only 3 cylinder head manufactures that I am aware of). Other engine parts choices are also reflective of this, to varying degrees.
  2. I am sure that's frustrating. When I got my car, it was already not original but I always assume that to be the case with any older car I buy (no matter what I am told by the seller). I ordered a Marti report to find out the original options were, then made a point to spent time understanding what is actually in the car. Although, it sounds like you have already found many of the changes the hard way.
  3. Welcome from Ohio - Nothing wrong with a modified car, as long as the work as well done. My Mach 1 is highly modified from original. It was a base Mach 1 with 302, manual drum brakes, power steering and no air conditioning when it was new. It's now powered by a mildly built 351 cleveland, front disc brakes, and aftermarket AC, much of which I've done myself. I think you will find people here are pretty helpful.
  4. Do you have (or have access to) a spare carb you can swap out? Even if you have to fab up temporary fuel lines, you could at least validate if the carb is the issue.
  5. FWIW - I’m running mine without that bracket and on the PS/water pump pulleys. I gave the kit for a heater-only car - no issues so far. It cools my interior well.
  6. Geoff, It doesn't look hard to replace the tank-to-pump fuel line, especially since it's in 2 pieces. I may put that on my winter list. On the subject of fuel line replacement, I currently have the QF carb set up with a braided SS hose from pump to carb, so replacing that will be the next thing. The braided hose with AN fittings was a temp setup to get the new carb in. I much prefer steel line.
  7. Easy fix, it only took me about 3+ weeks to figure it out. I missed it twice.
  8. Yep, that was it. Thanks everyone for the input - I appreciate it. Now just need to dial that carb in.
  9. DonKost, I get that, and my fingers are crossed. I On running up to 4K in 2nd - I thought about that as well. All I can figure is maybe in drive at cruise, I'm not opening the secondaries yet, and running the primary dry, where in 2nd, I'm just loading the car faster, drawing on my secondary before running out - its entirely possible that had I continued to push this, the car would have fallen on her face just like in Drive. Of course, that's pure speculation. One thing is certain, if this doesn't resolve the issue, I have to move on from fuel starvation as a cause. I'm going
  10. I hope this is it - don't see how this isn't a problem. I've been saying I'm missing something basic or simple. However, I've just had so many options that didn't pan out that I'm just not feeling confident this will solve it.
  11. I don't believe they were intended to come apart - but having said that, I rebuilt one for my car. I took a small flat screwdriver and slowly and carefully pried up around the bottom of the lip in your first picture. disassembled, clean and refilled with charcoal pellets from a pet store (bulk fish filter media).afterwards, I used lineman's pliers to bend the lip back down,and then a vise to clamp and press it tight. I had to work my way around a little at a time, but it didn't take long. Southern Ohio creative engineering .....
  12. I took the mustang to a local mustang guy - he called me back convinced it is fuel starvation. he took the car out, ran it until the power loss happened,then shut the car down. The fuel bowl on the carb was nearlyl empty - it would barely squirt gas when the throttle was manually rotated. This is unlike at idle, just after starting, it is full and has a healthy squirt (he checked). Before going further, he called me and walked me through what he did - then, knowing I do a lot of my own work, he wanted to know if I wanted to take it from there. His opinion was carb needle and seat wer
  13. it's not the III - I'm sure its the first-generation ignitor, it looks like a little black square module.

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7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.

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Founded:
July 2010

By:
Webfinity Design

From:
Latrobe, PA

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