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71coop last won the day on April 26

71coop had the most liked content!

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About 71coop

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool
  • Birthday 05/12/1967

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    Black 1971 Mach 1
    351C/FMX, trick flow heads
    Lunati retro roller conversion ("stockish" specs with high lift).
    Classic Auto AC
    Manual Front Disc conversion
    620 lb front and 5-leaf HD rear springs w/Gas-adjust shocks
    Autosound Slidebar Radio with Bluetooth


  • Location
    Marysville Ohio
  • Region

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  1. FWIW - I’m running mine without that bracket and on the PS/water pump pulleys. I gave the kit for a heater-only car - no issues so far. It cools my interior well.
  2. Geoff, It doesn't look hard to replace the tank-to-pump fuel line, especially since it's in 2 pieces. I may put that on my winter list. On the subject of fuel line replacement, I currently have the QF carb set up with a braided SS hose from pump to carb, so replacing that will be the next thing. The braided hose with AN fittings was a temp setup to get the new carb in. I much prefer steel line.
  3. Easy fix, it only took me about 3+ weeks to figure it out. I missed it twice.
  4. Yep, that was it. Thanks everyone for the input - I appreciate it. Now just need to dial that carb in.
  5. DonKost, I get that, and my fingers are crossed. I On running up to 4K in 2nd - I thought about that as well. All I can figure is maybe in drive at cruise, I'm not opening the secondaries yet, and running the primary dry, where in 2nd, I'm just loading the car faster, drawing on my secondary before running out - its entirely possible that had I continued to push this, the car would have fallen on her face just like in Drive. Of course, that's pure speculation. One thing is certain, if this doesn't resolve the issue, I have to move on from fuel starvation as a cause. I'm going to repair this and see - not sure what else I can do.
  6. I hope this is it - don't see how this isn't a problem. I've been saying I'm missing something basic or simple. However, I've just had so many options that didn't pan out that I'm just not feeling confident this will solve it.
  7. I don't believe they were intended to come apart - but having said that, I rebuilt one for my car. I took a small flat screwdriver and slowly and carefully pried up around the bottom of the lip in your first picture. disassembled, clean and refilled with charcoal pellets from a pet store (bulk fish filter media).afterwards, I used lineman's pliers to bend the lip back down,and then a vise to clamp and press it tight. I had to work my way around a little at a time, but it didn't take long. Southern Ohio creative engineering .....
  8. I took the mustang to a local mustang guy - he called me back convinced it is fuel starvation. he took the car out, ran it until the power loss happened,then shut the car down. The fuel bowl on the carb was nearlyl empty - it would barely squirt gas when the throttle was manually rotated. This is unlike at idle, just after starting, it is full and has a healthy squirt (he checked). Before going further, he called me and walked me through what he did - then, knowing I do a lot of my own work, he wanted to know if I wanted to take it from there. His opinion was carb needle and seat were sticking, or I had a (second) weak pump. He was leaning toward carb because of the pump swap, as was I, so I decided to take the car home and started in Saturday morning. I pulled the carb and cleaned it up - I did find a seemingly sticky needle. Put it together, and sonofabitch, same problem. Tried a third pump (not stock - an RPC 80 gph pump). No change. I then tried a 3rd carb (I have a shelf full of 3 or 4 holley/QF carbs and a couple quadrajets). It actually showed improvement with a 670 cfm QF carb - but still had the power loss, just a bit later in the RPM range. By now I'm ready to explode. Went inside, watched a little TV with the wife,who was being exceptionally patient with me. I decide to goback to square one. I had blown the lines out and was sure they were clear,but there had to be a blockage somewhere. Started a fresh inspection of my hard lines and eventually found this where the hard line passes through the wheel well: I missed it before, probably because the kink is back in the recess next to the spring,and was hard to see. All I can figure is that when I put the trans in, I must have pushed against the line and bent it. The line isn't blocked, it will passs fluid and air, but that has to restrict flow - any feedback/thoughts on this being the cause of fuel starvation?
  9. it's not the III - I'm sure its the first-generation ignitor, it looks like a little black square module.
  10. Donkost - I've never heard that the pertronix has a rev limiter. On the 4000 RPM in 2nd, it was true last time I tried,that was going into the weekend. AS I said before, I'm reluctant to push it too hard till I understand more,simply on the off chance it's not just air/spark/fuel. I tried a couple of the other suggestions last night with no joy. This afternoon, I am taking the car to a local mechanic who does a lot of the classic car work here in my hometown. I'm sure I missed something basic, but just don't have the hours to spare right now, between work and other home projects I need to focus on. Time to let someone smarter than me take a crack at it. Once he finds what I missed, I'll post it here.
  11. Not sure who you were asking, but I bought the CAA full conversion for a heater-only car. It works very well, it keeps a black on black car pretty cool inside.
  12. Stanglover - once I get time, will check the secondaries again. It's worth a try. Mezell29 - I cannot disagree with anything you said, it has to be fuel, spark or air - I did check to make sure all the ram air hardware is correctly operating. I've fought issues with vapor lock and fuel boiling with the vette, and used a heat shield and return line to successfully deal with it. This behaves a little different, it is very consistently RPM-related when the car is under load. I want to lean towards fuel as well, but we'll see. c9zx - I did check gap, it is .035, and just for shits and grins, threw a new coil, plugs, etc in - no change. I did not check the coli wire, though - will do that ASAP.
  13. I may give the ignition one more shot, I've had things like that happen - I also agree once this gets resolved, I'll probably kick myself for missing something small and obvious.
  14. Just about ready to throw in the towel and take the car to a local mechanic who knows classic mustangs. No evidence of an exhaust restriction, poorly seated valves, or head gasket leak, based on both vacuum testing and one of those emissions detector kits you can get at Advance Auto (the ones that you stick in the radiator to detect combustion leaks into the coolant). The head gasket thought was a long shot anyway, my car doesn't overheat or miss - it just falls flat at cruise and 3K RPMs. As I thought back to when this first appeared, I realized the first time it happened was within a few weeks of installing my new (rebuilt) FMX transmission. I didn't drive much between the installation and about 2 weeks ago, so if it is the trans, that may be why I didn't see this issue sooner. I have not considered this a transmission problem because it does not slip (My RPMs go down, not up). The TC is the same one I used with my previous FMX, so about 90% sure that's not the issue.The rebuild was done through a local rebuilder who has a lot of experience with classic car transmissions, but knowing the FMX isn't a popular choice these days, I wonder if that isn't a greater possibility of a mistake even by a good mechanic. Any forum thoughts on whether a bad rebuild could result in some sort of drag on the motor at cruise? The only other thought I have is a possible dropout in electrical power at 3K RPM, shutting off my coil and/or ignition module. battery and alternator look good at idle. Both of these ideas also feels like a long shot to me, but that's where I'm at... if I don't find this by Wednesday, I'm taking it to a smarter person than me....

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