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71coop

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71coop last won the day on April 26 2020

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About 71coop

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mach 1 - "Day 2" restoration; 351C/FMX, trick flow heads, roller cam conversion, CAA AC kit, upgraded springs/shocks & close-ratio steering box
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  • Location
    Marysville Ohio
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. Yeah, it was just a thought - not that I was specifically saying it was the same problem, but I would bet it's likely something small and easy to fix, once you find it (if you haven't already).
  2. Jpaz - when you first experienced the problem, were you just cruising along, or were you pulling uphill or accelerating (pushing RPMs above your normal cruise RPM level)? I had a similar issue last summer, and it drove me nuts. it would start and idle fine, but at speed or accelerating above 2800 to 3000 RPMs would chug and sometimes die. I thought maybe bad gas, clogged filter, bad fuel sender, all sort of things - All the "normal" troubleshooting items yielded no luck (I had fuel, spark and air). I blew out all my fuel lines, changed the pump and sender, fuel filter and even the carb. A
  3. Welcome from Central Ohio - post pictures and ask questions - lots of willing people around here! Jim
  4. My 71 had manual drums when I bought it. Drums can be rebuilt to work pretty well, but I wanted to go disc simply for personal preference. I decided to do a front disc conversion, but remain manual. I did this primarily because to do a power swap, you have to modify where the booster bolts to the firewall (its different on a power vs manual car). There are good front disc conversion kits from Summit, Pirate Jack, and others. Almost all do not come with a master cylinder, which is a requirement. After a lot of research, I learned that many people pair a manual front disc setup with a
  5. welcome on board from Ohio - lots of good info on the forum, ask around if you need something.
  6. I don't know how pulling the engine is faster, considering all you have to remove or unbolt (remove hood, unbolt tranny, remove all engine harness/wiring, any accessory hardware (esp. AC) that needs to remain connected. All of that vs just removing a couple of easily accessible items then raising the engine a couple of inches from below. I've got a lift, a cherry picker and all the tools I need to disassemble a car. The lift makes raising the engine from beneath really easy. I do agree that one clear advantage to pulling the engine is the ability to work on the block/pan without any obstr
  7. I did this over the winter. I had to raise the engine to make enough room between the cross member and engine in order to remove the pan. Unbolt your fan shroud and remove the long horizontal bolts from the motor mounts. The sway bar will also need to be removed, and I would also suggest removing the shock tower braces. You can place a flat board under the oil pan and jack the engine up. Once the engine is perhaps 2 inches higher than the frame mounts, use small blocks of wood between the frame mounts and the motor mounts. You can then remove the jack used to raise the engine, and sh
  8. I've shipped cylinder heads with UPS - took a set of AFR 195s I was selling to a UPS store and just worked with the guy working the counter to make sure they were well packaged and padded. They got from Columbus OH to Chicago with no problems. Buyer built a killer 383 stroker with'em.
  9. Nice lookin' car - of course, I'm partial to black.
  10. Your engine/fan setup looks almost identical to mine. My rad is aftermarket, but placement of everything is the same.
  11. I agree Geoff - I recently added the 2710 clutch and Derale fan to mine. When I did it, I did a bit of research about spacers, and realized the setup I had (pre-clutch) had too long a spacer and the fan was sunk well within the shroud. I've read that the ideal is roughly 2/3 in the shroud to maximize the air draw through the radiator and minimize turbulence inside the shroud. Now, using the 2710 clutch and the Derale fan, i have about 2/3 to 3/4 of the fan in the shroud, and the trailing edge of the fan out. The roads haven't been suitable to have the car out, but I did start it and
  12. Are you sure it's too rich (I'm just looking at your comment 2 posts above). Every time I had eye-burning/watering fumes, I was too lean at idle. I don't consider my self an expert, but I've solved that issue, and cleaned up idle quality more than once by richening the mixture. I know some rich conditions can also cause that reaction, but just a thought. The document attached was written by a member of the corvette forum I used to participate in. It gets into basic carb setup and give some good guidance about the tuning and adjustments to align the carb with your engine's needs. BTW, he i
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