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Everything posted by 71coop

  1. There is only so much timing any given engine will "like" regardless of octane. Every engine is different, based on any number of variables - compression, cam specs, etc. Higher octane can be used to reach "ideal" timing for your engine - but it is very easy to advance your timing too far, which is just as bad as running insufficient timing - and if you go far enough, no amount of octane will help. My approach would be to fill up with the highest grade available, then tune for best all-around performance with no detonation. After you are satisfied, then back off the octane a grade at a time if for nothing else just to save a few pennies at the pump.
  2. 2 tours in the USAF with the ARIA fleet. Picture below from Edwards AFB back in the 90s; I'm in the flight suit next to the guy wearing a maroon shirt. Fun fact - the Aircraft I logged the most hours on is now in the USAF Museum at Wright Patterson AFB Ohio. A good "official" history of the fleet is here: https://afspacemuseum.org/facilities/advanced-range-instrumentation-aircraft-aria/
  3. I've never been able to verify this for certain, but I believe there should be a seal between the diver-side wiper post and the upper cowl. I never had the seal on my car. On my heater-only car, this lack of a seal allows water to spill straight down into the "hat" that feeds the driver side vents. I pulled my wiper transmission arms, used the right stuff to create a gasket to seal the wiper post openings, and no more annoying water dripping on my left foot in the rain. Just one more thing to check.
  4. I bought the classic tube ones for a 351c/FMX. they fit reasonably well. Easy to put in with the radiator out.
  5. Sad to hear, that has always been one of my favorite bands. I finally got to see them perform live 2 years ago at the Marysville Ohio Balloon festival - A local annual shindig at the county airport. They did 2 sets and put on a great show, even for a small Ohio farming community.
  6. 2 posts are often cheaper and get the job done - but a waste of money? I Wildly disagree, they are not just for "storage". They allow a very good level of utility. I have a Titan 7000 lb, 4 post lift. I use it almost every day, for general maintenance on all our vehicles, including my daughters cars. I originally bought this model lift back in 2009 or 2010, but when I moved in 2015 it stayed with the house. A year later, bought the same model for the new place. It was around $2700 delivered. Mine has the casters plus i spent an extra $600 for a sliding hydraulic jack (so I could lift the front or rear off the deck plates for things like brake work). I've used it for transmission swaps on both my project cars, exhaust and suspension and brake work, and when I pull a motor, I park the car on the list so I can raise it for easy access underneath. No issues/complaints, I like it. Best tool I own.
  7. I have a Titan 7000 lb, 4 post lift. I use it almost every day, for general maintenance on all out vehicles, including my daughters. I originally bought this model back in 2009 or 2010, but when I moved in 2015 it stayed with the house. A year later, bought the same model for the new place. It was around $2700 delivered. Mine has the caster,s plus i spent an extra $600 for a sliding hydraulic jack (so I could lift the front or rear off the deck plates for things like brake work). No issues/complaints, I like it.
  8. Ruggles did a Q-Jet rebuild for my hot-rodded corvette years ago - good guy, and knows a ton. Another equally proficient Q-Jet expert (but be aware he's a Pontiac and Corvette guy) is Lars Grimsrud out of Colorado - but he knows his stuff. Both have helped me out with carb and timing issues.
  9. I'm running a 3-row champion from Jegs - cost around $190, fit was decent, and keeps a slightly warmed up Cleveland happy (aluminum heads, roller cam conversion) Part number is EC381.
  10. Every damn chance I get.
  11. Are you referring to the headlight high beam indicator? It's on the "running horse" emblem on the speedometer gauge, near the bottom. Should be illuminated red when high beams are on.
  12. NPD sells a pretty good repro spoiler with pedestals and hardware - obviously it'll need painted, but I would be shocked if anyone could salvage those pedastals. I don't know if anyone sells just the pedestal.
  13. CobraJet351 - As I recall, they just pulled off with a little effort. I did not plan on reusing them, because I picked up a set of replacement chrome knobs from CJ Pony or anther parts house.
  14. No, I'm cheap. I don't know how well it'll hold up, but I actually did it in Word, printed it on our home inkjet, then used my wife's home laminating machine to seal it up. She had laminate "blanks" with an adhesive backing. Came out pretty decent.
  15. I have the CAA kit and really like it. However, I had to deal with their 80s style ugly-ass controller too. I can't find the file i used, but I ended up designing a laminated decal that looks like something a little more period-correct. The shade of black is off, but so far, it's a better look.
  16. Despite my comment earlier, I actually like NASCAR. While I appreciate the history more than its present form, I think NASCAR is a great sport. I just think the origin/heritage is uniquely American, and way more interesting than the current form of the sport. Having said all that, I cant watch any kind of automitve racing on TV. Like baseball or golf. I lik'em, but both are way better in person. Full disclosure, never attended a NASCAR race, but did go to local circle or dirt track racing when I was younger - I love the atmosphere, especially of the smaller, dirty, smelly tracks and the feel of the dirt flying through the fence as cars rounded the curve into the straightaway . Wish I had the time to do that nowadays.
  17. The coolest thing about NASCAR is its roots - it would get a lot more interesting if they all went back to running 'shine.
  18. they really aren't any easier on your shins...
  19. I'm running a 670 brawler with my ram air setup - I bought a 1/4 inch spacer from Jegs (for the top of the carb, not the base) to make sure it cleared the float adjusters. Edit - it was Jegs, not Summit. Link below: https://www.jegs.com/i/RPC/707/R2013XB/10002/-1 I have no idea how they are shipping international.
  20. Yeah, it was just a thought - not that I was specifically saying it was the same problem, but I would bet it's likely something small and easy to fix, once you find it (if you haven't already).
  21. Jpaz - when you first experienced the problem, were you just cruising along, or were you pulling uphill or accelerating (pushing RPMs above your normal cruise RPM level)? I had a similar issue last summer, and it drove me nuts. it would start and idle fine, but at speed or accelerating above 2800 to 3000 RPMs would chug and sometimes die. I thought maybe bad gas, clogged filter, bad fuel sender, all sort of things - All the "normal" troubleshooting items yielded no luck (I had fuel, spark and air). I blew out all my fuel lines, changed the pump and sender, fuel filter and even the carb. All with no change. I spent the better part of three weeks trying to figure it out. Turns out that just prior to the problem surfacing, I had put my new FMX in, and during the installation, I had somehow accidentally put a bend in the the fuel line behind the shock tower. Probably hit it with my elbow while loosening the old bell housing bolts. I couldn't see the restriction until I pulled off the wheel and looked from inside the wheel well. It had just enough restriction to starve the car of fuel at certain speeds. Three weeks pf pulling my hair out and it took 15 minutes to bend and splice a new section of line in. So not saying it isn't bad gas, but just wondering if anything else was done to the car just prior that could affect air, fuel or spark at certain speeds (even inadvertently). Just some food for thought.
  22. Welcome from Central Ohio - post pictures and ask questions - lots of willing people around here! Jim
  23. My 71 had manual drums when I bought it. Drums can be rebuilt to work pretty well, but I wanted to go disc simply for personal preference. I decided to do a front disc conversion, but remain manual. I did this primarily because to do a power swap, you have to modify where the booster bolts to the firewall (its different on a power vs manual car). There are good front disc conversion kits from Summit, Pirate Jack, and others. Almost all do not come with a master cylinder, which is a requirement. After a lot of research, I learned that many people pair a manual front disc setup with a 74 Maverick master cylinder that was designed for a manual disc/drum combo, and an adjustable proportioning and residual valve spliced into the rear brake line feed. I sourced an MC from Rock Auto for a reasonable price, and Jegs has several easy-to-use valves. You can do the splicing from underneath, or in the engine bay. I found it easier to do it under the car near the rear axle. Make sure you still go through the rear drums and set them up correctly, and read the prop valve instructions. This overall setup works really well. Once done, the effort to stop isn't much different than a power setup - and it was less overall work and cost than a full power swap. Just something to think about.
  24. welcome on board from Ohio - lots of good info on the forum, ask around if you need something.
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