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Everything posted by 71coop

  1. Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads are good - but as vintageman said, expensive. Any quality aftermarket set of 351C aluminum heads will break the $2000 mark. Choices (as I recall from my build) were Edelbrock, Trick Flow, and CHI - There just aren't that many manufacturers making Cleveland heads. I do believe you could get good small chamber heads worked and ready to run for quite a bit less. For the record, I went aluminum (Trick Flows) because I don't know a good local shop for head work, and I wanted some of the upgrades like a real quench chamber and 7/16 studs for adjustable rockers.
  2. It's hard to make a solid recommendation since so much of this is subjective and personal preference. A stiff ride for one person may be too harsh for another. Anyway, here goes my experience - I ran KYB Gas-A-Just shocks for a couple years. They seem pretty smooth, and actually seemed to give good balance between damping bounce and stiffness. I noticed that they seem to perform better as you drove the car throughout the day. One thing I didn't like was that every time I just started out, they allowed too much bounce until warmed up, but that never took long. I actually prefer a stiffer ride so eventually went with a set of the newer Bilsteins - stiffer ride, but still not too jarring.
  3. If you aren't hung up on going power, you can use a 74 Maverick master Cylinder set up for a front disc/rear drum setup,keep, your existing distribution block, and splice a small residual valve into the rear brake line. The maverick setup was designed to provide good braking capability for a manual disc/drum car. Plus - you don't have to mess with relocating the MC, pulling the brake pedal, and it minimizes the "plumbing" work required. I did this with my 71 Mach (it was factory manual drums) and it works great. Stopping fast doesn't require a lot of leg strength - I was surprised at how effective this setup is.
  4. The AC system is the one "non-stock" upgrade I am most glad I did - as a fellow Buckeye, the hot, muggy June/July/August weather can be unbearable on a long drive. That may be worse for me with a black car/black interior. The CAA kit is a fairly straightforward, bolt-in with minimal cutting on the firewall. I would recommend some minor interior disassembly, like seats, glove box, dash components including the main cluster and center section and dash cap. I also stripped my interior down to redo insulation at the same time, so getting the under-dash unit in was pretty easy for me.
  5. There is only so much timing any given engine will "like" regardless of octane. Every engine is different, based on any number of variables - compression, cam specs, etc. Higher octane can be used to reach "ideal" timing for your engine - but it is very easy to advance your timing too far, which is just as bad as running insufficient timing - and if you go far enough, no amount of octane will help. My approach would be to fill up with the highest grade available, then tune for best all-around performance with no detonation. After you are satisfied, then back off the octane a grade at a time if for nothing else just to save a few pennies at the pump.
  6. 2 tours in the USAF with the ARIA fleet. Picture below from Edwards AFB back in the 90s; I'm in the flight suit next to the guy wearing a maroon shirt. Fun fact - the Aircraft I logged the most hours on is now in the USAF Museum at Wright Patterson AFB Ohio. A good "official" history of the fleet is here: https://afspacemuseum.org/facilities/advanced-range-instrumentation-aircraft-aria/
  7. I've never been able to verify this for certain, but I believe there should be a seal between the diver-side wiper post and the upper cowl. I never had the seal on my car. On my heater-only car, this lack of a seal allows water to spill straight down into the "hat" that feeds the driver side vents. I pulled my wiper transmission arms, used the right stuff to create a gasket to seal the wiper post openings, and no more annoying water dripping on my left foot in the rain. Just one more thing to check.
  8. I bought the classic tube ones for a 351c/FMX. they fit reasonably well. Easy to put in with the radiator out.
  9. Sad to hear, that has always been one of my favorite bands. I finally got to see them perform live 2 years ago at the Marysville Ohio Balloon festival - A local annual shindig at the county airport. They did 2 sets and put on a great show, even for a small Ohio farming community.
  10. 2 posts are often cheaper and get the job done - but a waste of money? I Wildly disagree, they are not just for "storage". They allow a very good level of utility. I have a Titan 7000 lb, 4 post lift. I use it almost every day, for general maintenance on all our vehicles, including my daughters cars. I originally bought this model lift back in 2009 or 2010, but when I moved in 2015 it stayed with the house. A year later, bought the same model for the new place. It was around $2700 delivered. Mine has the casters plus i spent an extra $600 for a sliding hydraulic jack (so I could lift the front or rear off the deck plates for things like brake work). I've used it for transmission swaps on both my project cars, exhaust and suspension and brake work, and when I pull a motor, I park the car on the list so I can raise it for easy access underneath. No issues/complaints, I like it. Best tool I own.
  11. I have a Titan 7000 lb, 4 post lift. I use it almost every day, for general maintenance on all out vehicles, including my daughters. I originally bought this model back in 2009 or 2010, but when I moved in 2015 it stayed with the house. A year later, bought the same model for the new place. It was around $2700 delivered. Mine has the caster,s plus i spent an extra $600 for a sliding hydraulic jack (so I could lift the front or rear off the deck plates for things like brake work). No issues/complaints, I like it.
  12. Ruggles did a Q-Jet rebuild for my hot-rodded corvette years ago - good guy, and knows a ton. Another equally proficient Q-Jet expert (but be aware he's a Pontiac and Corvette guy) is Lars Grimsrud out of Colorado - but he knows his stuff. Both have helped me out with carb and timing issues.
  13. I'm running a 3-row champion from Jegs - cost around $190, fit was decent, and keeps a slightly warmed up Cleveland happy (aluminum heads, roller cam conversion) Part number is EC381.
  14. Every damn chance I get.
  15. Are you referring to the headlight high beam indicator? It's on the "running horse" emblem on the speedometer gauge, near the bottom. Should be illuminated red when high beams are on.
  16. NPD sells a pretty good repro spoiler with pedestals and hardware - obviously it'll need painted, but I would be shocked if anyone could salvage those pedastals. I don't know if anyone sells just the pedestal.
  17. CobraJet351 - As I recall, they just pulled off with a little effort. I did not plan on reusing them, because I picked up a set of replacement chrome knobs from CJ Pony or anther parts house.
  18. No, I'm cheap. I don't know how well it'll hold up, but I actually did it in Word, printed it on our home inkjet, then used my wife's home laminating machine to seal it up. She had laminate "blanks" with an adhesive backing. Came out pretty decent.
  19. I have the CAA kit and really like it. However, I had to deal with their 80s style ugly-ass controller too. I can't find the file i used, but I ended up designing a laminated decal that looks like something a little more period-correct. The shade of black is off, but so far, it's a better look.
  20. Despite my comment earlier, I actually like NASCAR. While I appreciate the history more than its present form, I think NASCAR is a great sport. I just think the origin/heritage is uniquely American, and way more interesting than the current form of the sport. Having said all that, I cant watch any kind of automitve racing on TV. Like baseball or golf. I lik'em, but both are way better in person. Full disclosure, never attended a NASCAR race, but did go to local circle or dirt track racing when I was younger - I love the atmosphere, especially of the smaller, dirty, smelly tracks and the feel of the dirt flying through the fence as cars rounded the curve into the straightaway . Wish I had the time to do that nowadays.
  21. The coolest thing about NASCAR is its roots - it would get a lot more interesting if they all went back to running 'shine.
  22. they really aren't any easier on your shins...
  23. I'm running a 670 brawler with my ram air setup - I bought a 1/4 inch spacer from Jegs (for the top of the carb, not the base) to make sure it cleared the float adjusters. Edit - it was Jegs, not Summit. Link below: https://www.jegs.com/i/RPC/707/R2013XB/10002/-1 I have no idea how they are shipping international.
  24. Yeah, it was just a thought - not that I was specifically saying it was the same problem, but I would bet it's likely something small and easy to fix, once you find it (if you haven't already).
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