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Everything posted by 71coop

  1. Did a little research - According to Bilstein' website, these are nitrogen gas-charged shocks with a unique piston design to reduce potential foaming. Did not come with the strap. My 79 'vette Bilsteins are similar tech, just a little stiffer.
  2. I believe they are gas-charged, but I really don't know a lot about shock absorber technology. I do know that Bilsteins are top-notch - I run'em on my modified C3 (The very stiff Sport version not street), and lik'em even more on the mustang (although these are street version, so not apples-to-apples). So far, the street version is a really good match for stiffer-than-stock spring rates.
  3. Just following up to my own question - I took the plunge on Bilsteins for all four corners, and had some decent weather to try them out. With the stiffer springs, the Bilsteins provide a nice, firm ride. Not at all jarring and I really like the ride.
  4. When I first picked up my 79 corvette 12 years ago, I started looking for a small block to build a mild stroker (had a 383 in mind back then) - Anything better than the anemic low-compression 195 HP base motor it had from GM. I called a guy with several blocks and other parts to see what he had. This guy was adamant that the 79 corvette was a factory-produced 500 HP beast. No amount of discussion could convince him that the only C3 that legitimately had that kind of blasting powder under the hood out of the factory was an L88 (very rare & valuable if you can find one). BTW, max HP in a factory 79 vette was 205. Needless to say, I passed on his parts...
  5. Bentworker - Jscott and I have worked out a deal, but I still appreciate the reply. I suppose I should have posted that I have a line on one.
  6. Looking for the 2V or 4V heat shield with the tube that connects to the heat riser to the snorkel. I don't need the paper tube, just the metal heat shield that bolts over top of the exhaust manifold, and captures heated air. Trying to complete my intake system with heated air for warm-ups. PM if you have one you want to part with. Thanks, Jim
  7. My 71 Mach 1 was originally a 302/c4 car. Since I'm more inclined to want a "Day 2 , modified period correct" car vs a "factory correct" car, it now has a 351c/FMX powertrain. But if I ever got the proverbial wild hair up my behind, I would consider going back to the 302/C4 configuration - So, I'd like to know which vendors. I might want to avoid them - if they get this wrong, what else do they have wrong?
  8. Agree with Don - I have a 1 1/2 year old pump and a new close-ratio gearbox (installed about 60 days ago). No whine - and one of the best mods I've done, especially considering the overall effect and how easy it was to get done.
  9. I don't have a picture - just looking for wiring from the switch that is triggered when the glove box door opens to the light that illuminates the glove box interior. Not all cars had them, but thought I would ask if this car did. I may just need to fabricate something if I want to add the light - thanks for responding though.
  10. Do you have glove box light and switch wiring/electrical components?
  11. I'd do it again in a heartbeat
  12. I think I'm thinking of Wilson's promontory - but if that's not right I give.
  13. I understand that - but in fact, we felt very safe - visited Egypt, Jordan and Israel. The border crossing from Jordan to Israel and back was different than we expected - tight security and you give up your passport for the crossing - but we never felt threatened or in any kind of danger. As with any different culture, if you're respectful, you'll get the same in return. I would encourage anyone to go.If you do, take at least 3-4 days in Petra and hike the whole thing (we didn't have that much time and wish we did).Then go south to Wadi Rum and spend a couple days with the Bedouin camps. Well worth the trip.
  14. You got it - IN fact it is the top of Jebel Al-Mahdbah, the mountain in Petra that also has the Al-Kahzneh (known as the Treasury) carved into it's base. The obelisks in the first picture weren't built - the top 25 or 30 feet of the mountain top were cut away and exposed the obelisks. Huge ancient worship complex on top of that mountain. My wife and I visited a little over a year ago.
  15. I'll play along with my own pic - Hopefully not TOO obscure. this is not tooo far off a road that used to be called the King's Highway in the Middle East.
  16. I'm gonna guess near the southernmost point - but not certain. I was in Melbourne about 25 years ago with the USAF, and visited the southern tip and several areas along the coast - but don't recall if I actually saw the view you have there.
  17. I'm also running the Trick Flow Heads - no 4V header fit issues at all. My build is relatively mild, and I wanted smaller intake ports with a dual plan, so used the Edelbrock 2665 intake. I didn't dyno it, not really interested in numbers as much as how it feels when I drive it (I've seen some BS dyno results before). With my cam, it's got a nice off-idle response, plenty of torque.
  18. +1 on the FlowFX - I like the sound, and also get a lot of compliments from people when they hear it .
  19. B229218 I debated going closer to the factory paint scheme, including lower body paint and the spoiler, but opted to keep it simple. I'm pretty happy with the look, but appreciate the thought. I really like the period-correct restos out there, but for both my cars, I like to make subtle departures from the factory look. I
  20. Welcome from Marysville - Nice lookin car. What part of Ohio are you from?
  21. As much as I hate to put the cars away it's that time. Snow started coming down tonight in Central Ohio - it won't be much, but it's a clear signal that it's time to stop driving and start the winter projects. To that end, I had to put a little heater in the garage so I can take on a few projects I have planned between the two cars (meaning the Mustang and Vette, not the Honda). This 10000 Watt heater should do the trick.Heater is in place and ready to plug in. I get the 240/50 service run this week (Just in time).
  22. Last winter, I pulled my interior to better insulate my interior ahead of doing a Classic Air install. Since I had it all out, and needed to insulate the roof/headliner area, I took the dive on the TMI one-piece. I like it, it does hug the roof line and offer added headroom. It also looks good (not stock obviously) but I have no regrets. Definitely have a helper - it was a bitch wrangling that thing into place by myself, but still possible. The pre-cut holes for the visors and the overhead cabin light were well placed. In fact, I found that the easiest way to align the headliner was to use the screw holes for the light. I put a couple small screws in the dome light holes to hold the headliner in place as I worked my way around and drilled holes for the seat belt anchors and visors. I also kept my existing sail panels, I did not need to entirely remove the old ones. Hope that helps.
  23. Just a follow-up to close the thread - I ordered a 3-wire connector from wiringprodcuts.com, and used that to make a simple harness that extended the wiring along the factory route to the door pillar wiring for the dome light. I grounded on the panel behind the kick panel. To maximize light output and keep current low, I used the LED I linked to above. Buttoned it up Saturday afternoon, and works great.
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