mustang7173

Rmach1 - Did you solution work?

Thanks for the perseverance jpaz! Members like this move the needle forward in the forum!

Hello Copestang, I believe you have it covered. Why are you changing your steering box? Is it due to new competition box?

Hello Lazarus, No worries! I understand the dynamics of these cars. I appreciate the real world experience that you bring to this thread and the forum. Thanks!

Hello Lazarus, Nice! I was looking into that direction. Since you have them installed and driven on them, I may again change direction. I have the 245/45-17 all away around and can tell every nook and crannies on the road. Your convertible looking really good! I appreciate the feedback! What brand tire are they ?

All, After further research, really always continuing, I was looking into taller sidewalls for the 17 inch rims. This is now not a valid resolution. If you look at the mustangs that had the factory 17 inch wheels and tires, their spring rates and shocks (struts) were adjusted to absorb the bumps and grinds of the road. As Carolina_Mountain_Mustang mentioned, the 71-73 mustangs suspension was designed to use the taller sidewalls for more road bumps and grind absorption. Possible resolutions: 1: Lower the spring rates of the coil and leaf. Not sure if this possible since it maybe a custom order. 2: Adjustable shocks Like QA1 Stocker Star Single Adjustable SKU: TS402 - Front and Rear QA1 Stocker Star Shocks TS601 Eaton Detroit Spring offers a wide variety of front and rear shocks for the 1973 model. I would image Eaton Detroit Spring would have to make you a custom set of springs. Onward to more research.

I am also looking into a better solution for the front rear shocks. I found the rear QA1 application - QA1 TS601 - 1965-1973 Ford. https://www.qa1.net/product/ts601

Hello tony-muscle, Oh, got a nice chuckle on the "stiff/racy not comfortable" When we were a much younger person, it does not bother us as bad. Like, Yea, this cool! You get in your mind after researching on how it should ride , and it turns out way different. Hopefully our real world experience will help the forum members make better decisions on how and what to buy per what they want. None of this is ever cheap! Thanks

Make sure your look at the tires Aspect Ratio. This will determine ride quality and harshness. Ride comfort is a function of spring and dampening, and that can come from the tire, the springs, a shock, or any combination of the three. A car riding on lower profile tires will have less sidewall-flex capacity to absorb bumps, and will either require softer springs to accomplish the same results, or be bumpier.

Recommend to be mindful of your ride quality! Aspect Ratio is very important. Ride comfort is a function of spring and dampening, and that can come from the tire, the springs, a shock, or any combination of the three. A car riding on lower profile tires will have less sidewall-flex capacity to absorb bumps, and will either require softer springs to accomplish the same results, or be bumpier.

jscott- do you have the rear sway bar? You may want to look into adding to help balance out the larger bar. No tricks to install. Just make sure your mustang is sitting naturally on the pavement when you tighten everything up. Most instructions recommend that. typical setup is 1-1/8 front and 3/4 rear -

I have the 2001 Bullitt 17 inch wheels with the 245/45-17 tires. With the TCP strut rods and Lower Control Arms, the ride is a bit harsh. I feel every nook and cranny on the road. Now for handling, it is a slot car. The aspect ratio is very important in determining the quality of ride that you want. https://www.motorweek.org/features/goss_garage/tires_ride_quality A car riding on lower profile tires will have less sidewall-flex capacity to absorb bumps, and will either require softer springs to accomplish the same results, or be bumpier. I am looking into slightly taller tires or go back to 15 inch rims.

I currently have the TCP Lower control arms and the strut rods on my 1973 coupe. I sometimes believe they are an over kill. Don C is correct with the cabin feedback with the solid mount strut rods. I believe that your purchase a good quality stock Lower control arm, install the metal to box the frame part, and install these heavy duty strut bushings; http://mustangparts.averagejoerestoration.com/1967-73-mustang-heavy-duty-strut-rod-bushings-c6oz-3a187-hd "These premium Bushings are made from Synthetic Elastomer that provides very similar handling performance and longevity when compared to Polyurethane but without the squeaking. This modern material is firmer than OEM Rubber but has a slightly softer durometer than traditional Polyurethane which will improve overall ride quality by eliminating some of the harshness associated with Polyurethane. A great compromise that allows you to get both comfort and performance at the same time. Steel Sleeves and correct Washers included. If required the correct 11/16x18 Nuts available under part # 380460-S." I am looking into removing the TCP strut rods and going back to my heavy duty strut bushings and keep the TCP LC Arms to prevent the twisting. Lower Control Arms bracing- What this video of how the Lower Control Arm deflects when the brake are applied. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPhRhZYLTpI As one wise gentleman put it to me, " You are going 65 MPH, you are on the road, and NOT a race track! " Save your money!

TheDude, What is your budget? I have the 1994-2004 Cobra 13″ Front Brakes on your Classic Ford kit installed on my 1973 Coupe. I bought it s few years ago. Works very well. The price for the kit then, was reasonable. Wow, not cheap these days!

Jomar1957, I had suspected that you were asking for. If Don cannot help, then look at the Ford F Series from the early 70’s and to maybe early 80’s. The tilt mechanism was the same. The universal joint is the same. The Lower shaft will be different in length. You may get one cheap and use the parts. They are not making this stuff anymore. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Are you looking for the universal joint inside the tilt housing? That is one reason I posted that video! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

https://www.mpbrakes.com/rear-brake-conversion-kit/1973-ford-mustang-legend-series.asp?catid=9017D315D38A4E4CAE68621E7D3759A2 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Rocketfoot, Good work! Thanks! I was trying to get the new updated site back on Tap-a-Talk. Any news or updates on when that will be available again to allow to follow?

All, Several mechanics tell me the key is to let the transmission seal, "Vulcanize" . I have heard to let it sit over night. I had Ford change my F-150 Transmission fluid with the mechanic stating there were be a 2 to 3 hour vulcanization process to let seal. NO Leaks

Got mine completely restored for $135.00 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also had the quick steer ratio installed and it is a bit touchy. As Hemikiller stated, " The quick ratio definitely takes time to get used to! "

All, I have an update- I received a quote to have my current center console shifter cover vacuum plated by Vacuum Orna Metal - 11380 Harrison Rd. Romulus, MI 48174 $109.00

I agree with donkost, I can see a fresh up rebuild with hydraulic roller cam system, and roller rockers. I do know that the 1970 Cyclone 429's had 375 hp. from the factory. Maybe you can look at the compression and other specs to mimic that 429.

All, Has anybody purchased the reproduction Center Console snifter cover? There are times where reproduction is cheaper that re-chroming original. https://www.cjponyparts.com/black-console-plate-assy-1971-1973/p/CONP17B/