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Everything posted by InjectedMach

  1. I make a laser cut 3 piece kit for this swap, new crossmember, shift rod and range selector mount.
  2. Good made in USA rollers are MOREL and no harm in the holes that way you can use ford/trick flow etc lifters with the dog bones or but if you dont want to drill and tap you can use the link/tie bar style.
  3. Stock or adjustable arms? stock Cleveland arms just get torqued down. Adjustable self aligning rockers require hardened pushrods and guide plates and are adjusted quite differently.
  4. I have always used it, read in a really once in an old manual its supposed to keep hot oil off the intake and thus making intake air temp cooler but its getting harder and harder to find stuff like this anymore.
  5. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-9-Inch-Posi-Traction-Third-Member-Assembly,6788.html This may be a better way to go, all new parts in a used case already assembled. all you have to do is install it.
  6. MT91106 Mike you are right about if its setup correctly just having the good luck of finding a good supplier was really the nature of my inquiry. Its not a bad price as motive gears are 240, bearings 104, tracloc unit usually 375 to 550 they are not marking these up hardly at all considering the cost of labor and the used case.
  7. jbobo does the setup have a whine or howl??
  8. kcmash, please understand Im not saying that the (stock) metal gear is incompatible what I am saying is the Nylon gear is stronger and will outlast the steel or iron gear especially since there may be imperfections on the cam drive gear from knocking teeth of the dist. gear. Comp cams sells the gears and they can be gotten from summitracing.com. I had a defective distributor from MSD where the internal shaft was not concentric with the od of the housing and it ate my distributor drive gear OFF my cam, Long story short had to pull motor down to get all he steel out so upon putting my engine back together decided to use the composite gear and never face that again. Found out about the composite gear from a high performance machine shop close by and reserached it and now I am a believer and no a hp cam in a 351c wont hurt the composite gear.... used them in 429's, 408W and 393C all bumping 500+hp. Good luck no matter which route you follow just trying to share my trying and expensive expiernce so you dont have endure it as well.
  9. Wait dont do that!! too much can go wrong steel on steel. Spend the $100 and get a composite cam gear, they are tolerant to drive gear imperfections as a ding and a lot cheaper than metal all throught the engine and you on the shoulder of the road. I would even try the Bronze gear but they are meant to wear out so it will wear out however the composite(like Nylon) is indestructable.
  10. One head gasket on backwards is my guess. On one bank the gasket will lay face down and face up on the opposite side but no matter how they lay, they say "front" and that means no matter how it has to be flipped( as odd as it may look) both words imprinted into the gaskets go to the front of the block. Also make sure the impeller is not spinning or slipping on the water pump shaft, its rare but happens too. Best of luck I know how bad this sucks. Take lots of pics during tear down for your refernce.
  11. I use the MSD cut to fit and if you use a bench vise to crimp the terminal with the supplied tool it works better than most other factory sets you can buy premade. The wires come with both Male and HEI style terminals and there is plenty of excess wire so you can practice with the ones you are not using. 2 crimps and you are a pro.
  12. Or the bushings in the distributor body galled and siezed....personally done that one before.
  13. The real answer is what is it worth to you....Start low like $250. Its a used engine you dont know if it has good rings or knocks or low oil pressure. Of course you hope its good and of course he will say its good but till you get it running you wont know for sure what you've bought so buy low as possible...my$.02
  14. Are the fans spinning in the correct direction? Another excellent fan is the police/crown vic/lincoln fan and 99 Taurus 6cyl wagon. The taurus fan is available for about 120 new at advanced auto parts. I use Afco 2 pass radiators on my builds and never run hot even with ac running in south FL. 427/460/410 all over 550hp. Flexalite makes and excellent soft start controller if your car is not so equipped - yet. Keep the electric fans just maybe get a better one, my vote
  15. since you have to open it up drop in a roller cam man..
  16. I am glad you found this info helpful, there is nothing worse than investing in something only to be dissappointed by false advertising or not getting full disclosure when shopping a product. Keep us apprised wit your build, I am doing one now for a 69 Thunderbird im restoring. Bought some cheaper aluminum heads off ebay and a roller cam, I hope it runs smooth, quiet - and forever.
  17. If money is not an issue go with MassFlo EFI, its 4K but you get everything for the conversion (intake, harness, dist, coil, injectors, throttle body, o2 sensors, fuel rails the works). For a stock to mild engine the MSD is very good, then Fast and hve not used powerjection or edel. The poster that is having trouble with the 528 hemi the problem is this: FAST and all the other box kits cannot run an engine that generate low vacuum(below10 inches) because they cannot create the data from the sensors to generate a reasonable idle profile. car may run but will be rich as hell, or stumble badly because the program has to learn every time it comes off idle but may run pretty good WOT which is almost never. Massflow however runs the wildest mill better than any carb. ever will. I know this sounds like a paid advertisment but its through my trial and struggleing to learn what it takes for an EFI to run an engine... and why an efi kit is not properly running my engine. Had the FAST kit on a 427 Ford racing crate motor and it would not run worth a ------! called fast and they finally told me my vacuum was too low for the system to function after accusing me of not installing it correctly and saying my charging system was bad and my intake was leaking form improper installation. So I chewed them a new one and sent pics of the brand new wiring displaying 14 volts at idle from a 3G alt nside the car on this custom build and a steady 10" .WHY NOT PUT THIS ON THE DAMN BOX???? so i took it off and set it aside, used it later on a stock 375hp 440 R/T Charger and it worked great. Went to the other guys and asked them outright would thier system run my setup and they all (bar one) said no when cornered. Chris at Massflo schooled me and I paid for thier system, installed it(it has provisions for 3 stages of nitrous, forced induction and it manages EVERYTHING flawlessly. Idles up for ac, controls electric fan(s), timing, ac cut out at WOT, literally anything you want it to. And its a true mass airflow style system not speed density style which most others are. The difference is quite significant when trying to manage a radical engine and a stock one too. Mass flow looks at load, barometric pressure, inlet air temp, engine temp, engine load and uses 2 wideband o2 sensors to constantly manage the air fuel ratio. Speed density systems essentially rely on engine temp and throttle position to decide what the engine is doing. Dont get me wron speed density works ok on a stock motor but shows its wakness when big camshaft profiles or large displacement come into play. If using the MSD which I have used and liked on stock engines, always try to use a retun style fuel system, this helps keep the fuel circulating and cool. The MSD is more seamless than FAST which has to cycle the injectors before cranking the car, turn to on then wait a second to hear injecotrs click 4 to 8 times then start.
  18. Jeff, thanks I think? nah just kidding. I came to this site because I embrace technolgy and love applying it to my classics. Thats why Im always touting 4R70W's, EFI, 4 wheel Discs, Better gauges, automatic headlights, HID lighting and so on. I feel welcomed here because others have the same affinity for better fuctionality. Price aside, the MassFlo kit outperforms anything else I have tried. Generally speaking EFI surpasses carburetion because it constantly adjusts the A/F ratio to meet outside air temp, air pressure and spark knock(the high end kits anyway) and each system has its own merits.
  19. OK now Im just glad to help and I believe in standing behind my word(and products).
  20. 4R70W man, you get all that fixed and its still spinning hard at 80 mph. I used 3.70 gears x 26" tall tire and 4R70W and 2200 at 75mph. Low gears dig like mad too. Whole swap will run 12-1300. $200-400 used trans, controller wiring mounts 850+-
  21. I have to make this point, an engine - any engine, does not know how the air and fuel is being delivered. I think sequential port is the best and now direct injection puts it IN the chamber directly so those engineers have upped the game again, more power more economy. I have Used MassFlo EFI with no problems on 351C,427 and 410...and now working on a boss9 setup. Its the best system I have run accross so far. They are all light years ahead of carbs for tuning, drivability, troubleshooting...... my $.02. The fast system did not control timing and the cam profile was too radical with my 427 and 410 for it to generate data for idle A/F. Those engine made 10" and 10.5 vacuum respectively and they dont tell you outright but FAST, Powerjection and MSD will be super rich (foul plugs rich) if they can even idle. You dont have to believe me, just place a call to the support lines and ask directly and they will then admit to it. as far as power limit, FAST and Massflo have 2 x 4 Venturi style throttle body configurations coupled with larger higher volume injectors, and you can run forced induction through them as well. Massflo has triggers for up to 3 stages of nitrous, FI and the cubes dont matter
  22. Ditch the box and blaster coil, had IDENTICAL problem. Switched to stand alone dist. with mallory coil and fixed it...may fix yours too? Went to EFI shortly after since I was never really happy with the carb.
  23. If you are going to rebuild it correctly there will be some machinework and cam bearings to replace so I would also suggest you tear it down and have everything hot tanked at a machineshop. They can do your valve job, install cam brgs., freeze plugs and hone the block as well as check the crank journals so you know what size bearings to buy. The hot tank will also clean the pistons nicely.
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