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Everything posted by Murdoc

  1. Success! It is running! It turned out to be the points gap. There wasn’t one! I set it to .017 with my feeler gauge and that seemed to do the trick. Next step is to get the timing adjusted. Thank you all for letting me field my questions here!
  2. August was just the point when I got so frustrated I decided I needed the advice of you more seasoned vets on here (You're all amazing). These problems started in June when the car died in the fast lane on i95 in Connecticut. I can confirm it is a points ignition system. I'm getting about 3 volts to my coil with the key in the "on" position. I'm unaware of this plastic timing gear you speak of. Finally how do you check an ignition condenser? I've attached a video of what it currently sounds like. -Mike IMG_7879.MOV
  3. I double, triple quadruple checked the firing order. It's definitely correct. 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 counter-clockwise. I double checked my TDC yesterday, it definitely appears to be in the correct position. I can see the fuel squirting into the carb when I pull the throttle back. I even dialed the choke housing back so the choke stays closed. It keeps sounding like it's firing or on the verge of firing then I let go of the key and nothing, just a winding noise as the crankshaft slows to a halt. I attached a timing gun to the cable going from the coil to the distributor when cranking and I see some n
  4. New Carburetor, New battery, New Battery Cables, New Ignition Coil, New distributor, New Distributor cap, new distributor rotor, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new 14 Amp fuse in the #4 fuse slot... Why in the f&*k won't this POS start?
  5. Got 'em. Thanks everyone! I was able to get them off. Now I just need to find the correct replacements... or maybe I can just put these right back on? They look hardly used at all!
  6. I'm removing these three bolts, not the two bolts on the very top, correct?
  7. Thanks Don, I will say that the shop I had the car towed to in Connecticut replaced some spark plugs that needed to be replaced, installed a new analog Distributor and ignition coil. When they took the car for a test drive it broke down. They discovered the vacuum advance plate had come off and was spinning around inside the housing, so then they had to replace that. The shop owner told me it would run well enough to get it home (which it did), but I should definitely take it to a local mechanic because it seemed to have carburetion issues (which was later confirmed by a local mechanic wh
  8. Well, hopefully I can get it working with the 600 CFM, unfortunately I think it might be too late to make an exchange with Holley. This just seems to be another one of the previous owner's many eyebrow-raising decisions. These issues all started when the car broke down as a result of the rotor in my distributor snapping. The mechanic it got towed to informed me that the previous owner had put an optical distributor in as if they intended to do a digital conversion, but stopped with the distributor. Very confusing. Even so, your advice is extremely helpful. I'd be completely lost with this thin
  9. Thanks for the feedback jpaz! The reason I went with the 600 CFM was because I was replacing an old Holley that had been on the engine since it's previous owner and was also a 600 CFM. I called Holley Customer Support and gave them the part number (80457-2) on my old 4160 and the guy informed me that the 600 CFM was in fact the correct replacement for that part. On the Holley website, I don't see a 715 CFM, but I do see a 750 CFM. Do you think it's worth swapping for a 750 CFM? In addition to the battery cable, I plan to get some new terminal connectors because my old one's are pretty worn loo
  10. Hi All, I recently installed a Holley Street Warrior 600 CFM with Vacuum Secondaries and an Electric Choke. Once I got a trans kickdown that fit properly (or seems to). The fast idle was set very high around 1500 RPM (which is the factory setting according to the manual). I looked in the car manual and saw that the suggested RPMs for my set-up (351 4V Auto trans) is 625/500 (I assume that's 625- fast idle and 500- curb idle). After futzing with the Fast idle bolt, it seemed like the engine was idling around 625, but it sounded like it was struggling a little. I called it a day, and came b
  11. Thanks Fabrice! Is there any sort of resistance when putting the caps back in place and reattaching the bolts afterwards?
  12. Hi All, Sorry to re-open this two years later, but I'm running into the same problem as Tom and I wanted to know the easiest way to replace the front upper shock bushings. Could I just jack the rear of the car up so the front shocks compress and then unscrew the tops?
  13. Excuse my ignorance Don, but aren't you already getting the cold air intake from the hood plenum? So what's the purpose of a second source for cold air intake? I'm just trying to understand how this all works together.
  14. Wow, thanks guys. Lots of helpful responses on here. It seems like a pop rivet might be the most accessible and easy to install. On a related note, how necessary is the flex tubing and adjoining lower duct that attach to the end of the snorkel? Does it make much of a difference in terms of engine performance? From a lot of the pictures I've seen online, it seems like a part that a lot of people either never had or have chosen to live without.
  15. Hi Everyone! First let me say thank you to all of you guys because digging through the forums on here has led me to get some very helpful answers to questions that have boggled my mind for a while. I'm currently trying to track down all the parts I need to get the Ram Air system for my '71 Mach 1 fully functional. The engine is a '72 351C 4V. I'm getting close to having all the parts I need, but I'm still missing a few. One piece in particular I'm having a hard time tracking down or getting any info on is the bolt or rivet that fastens the vacuum motor to the top of the air filter snorkel
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