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wdills

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  • My Car
    73 Mach1

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  • Location
    NC
  • Region
    Southeast

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  1. I see your problem. I don't have the 3 center gauges in mine. Have you considered just replacing the center dash panel with one that doesn't have the gauge pod? Those 3 gauges are included in the VHX gauge cluster anyway.
  2. I don't have them in my car but I have seen a similar set in an few cars at local shows. I personally didn't like the look. Therefore I am planning on the VHX series when I build my car. It has all the nice bells and whistles of a modern piece but still has the analog gauge look. I am planning a lot of similar mods to my 73, so I understand what your desire for an old car that drives like a new car. The VHX will keep your dash looking more like an old car should. Goog luck with your project Wayne
  3. In my original build plan I was thinking MSD box and distributor. I am considering an Ignitor III distributor instead to eliminate a box to fail. The ignitor module is small enough to keep a spare in the car in case of failure. Anyone have experience (good or bad) with the Ignitor III set-up?
  4. gpierce, I like the look of that tire and wheel size on your car. Are you at stock ride height or did you lower it any? The stance is really nice. If no one else comes back with experience of a larger tire in this size wheel, I guess 225/50R17 is what I will go with.
  5. Below are the wheels and tires I was planning for my 73 Mach1 build. A few suggested bigger tires. I am all for it, but I want plenty of clearance so there is no chance of rubbing. For the wheel size I picked, what is the widest tire I can run without worry. Car will probably run a stock height or maybe 1 inch lower. I want 1 size on all 4 corners so I can rotate tires front to back since this will be a daily driver. 215/55R17 17 x 7, 4.25" BS, set of 4
  6. Thanks guys. I have updated my material list to the one Mike used.
  7. In my build plan post, I got a lot of negative feedback regarding the Rod and Custom front coil over conversion I was planning. I am open to change but I need other ideas. Here is the situation with the car. The bottom plate of the front crossmember is showing rust damage. I have a replacement OEM crossmember than I obtained years ago but just never installed. The question is which way to go. Do I install a replacement OEM crossmember or do I install a new aftermarket crossmember with rack and pinion steering and get rid of the shock towers to open up the engine bay for better access to everything. If I go back with the OEM crossmember, then I assume the recommendation would be to go to stronger tubular control arms and front strut such as the stuff Global West and Street or Track sells. If I go with an aftermarket crossmember with suspension and brakes already installed, then which brand. I saw a lot of good reviews about Rod and Custom on other mustang forums but if there is something better out there, please point me to it. Thanks Wayne
  8. I was planning on a Ron Morris crossmember for the AODE I intend to install. In my build post, Eric mentioned that the one he bought didn't fit. Is there a different one out there that others have had good luck with? Eric, how much modification did you have to do to your original?
  9. Mustang 7173, funny you should mention insurance. The first thing I did was contact my insurance company and discuss how I could insure the car. They will do an agreed value policy on the car without the normal restrictions that come with a "Hagerty" type agreed value policy. It cost more than Hagerty of course but really no more than a new car policy for a car of similar value.
  10. Hi guys, Thanks for the feedback. Eric, it sounds like you have built yourself a pretty awesome car. I guess I should have provided a little more back story on this thing in my original post. I have owned this car for 30 plus years. Dad got it for me when I was in high school. It was my daily driver until I got a real job and could afford to buy my first new car (94 Dodge Ram). From my high school days, this is what I remember about the car. The front cross member had rust in the bottom of it. The front end would not stay in alignment even though all the components were new so maybe the cross member was at fault or maybe it was that 351C sitting on top of light weight front end components. Either way my front cross member needs to be replaced. I figure that if I have to go to the trouble of replacing it, might as well go to a more modern setup. I have put a lot of thought into the trade-offs of the electronics I am adding to make it a more enjoyable car to drive vs. the keep it simple and stock approach. I doubt I would want to drive it everyday without the electronics I am planning. If most of the electronics fail, it doesn't disable the car. If the Trans controller, EFI or ignition system fails, they are each stand-alone systems. I can just buy another one if I have to. I will also feel better about troubleshooting because I would have built it myself so I will understand the car better than the car I currently drive to work. I will know the purpose of every hose and wire and what it does. There is some rust in the car but not as bad as the Studebakers I have restored. At least with a mustang I can buy the panels I need and don't have to fabricate them. It is an original AC car so all the necessary pulleys are there. I am looking forward to getting rid of that massive OEM compressor and getting something smaller that doesn't cover half the engine. As for the wiring, that doesn't worry me. I make my living as an electrical engineer. My plan is to create a electrical schematic that is specific to this car as I build it. I used the same approach on my Studebaker and it worked out great. It didn't get as many electrical mods as this one will but the concept is the same. As for my personal experience. Below are some photos of my Stude. Dad and I spent about 6 years on this one. We are currently about two years into the work on his 50 model Studebaker, hoping to finish it the next year or so. Once it is done we will start on my Mustang. We are not professionals by any means, but we are pretty happy with the way my Stude turned out.
  11. I am planning to build this car to be my daily driver. I am tired of the new cars that I can't work on. I like a lot of the convenience items found in a new car so I am adding those that can be purchased in the aftermarket. I would like to hear feedback (good or bad) from those that have used the products I am planning on and if you have used something similar with good results, tell me about the alternative. I will list things in small (logical to me) groupings to make this list easier to read. Steering & Front Suspension Rod & Custom, RC-107, front suspension (coil over, power rack and pinion, disc brakes) Flaming River, FR20006, tilt steering column Flaming River, FR20160AD, Cascade Steering Wheel Rear Suspension and Differential Total Control Products, 5804-M30, rear suspension (4 link, coil overs) Rear end rebuild with 3.50 gear, TruTrac limited slip Global West, 911, subframe connectors Brakes Rod & Custom, RC-131, rear disc brake conversion with E-brake Rod & Custom, RC-138, offset booster / master cylinder / proportioning valve Wheels & Tires Legendary Wheel, GT9 wheel, 17x7, 4.25 BS Michelin Defender 215/55R17 Fuel System MSD Atomic EFI, 2900, self tuning master kit with inline fuel pump MSD Atomic, 2922, return fuel line kit Ignition System MSD, 62.1, 6A ignition control box MSD, 8577, Distributor MSD, 84211, adjustable rotor MSD, 8222, Blaster 2 coil Cooling System BeCool, 82087, cooling module (radiator, electric fans, relays, temp sensor) Four Seasons, 84876, thermostat housing with 2 temp sender fittings (78 Lincoln Cont 400) Gates, 20704, Upper Rad hose (78 Lincolon Cont) Engine Rebuilt 351C-2V to stock 1970 specs (250 Hp, 355 lb-ft) Edelbrock, 2750, dual plane intake Comp Cams, CL32-411-8, roller cam kit (260HR) Rod and Custom, RC-166, double hump oil pan to clear new front suspension Stock water pump with temp sender fitting Stock power steering pump Power Masters, 47757, 3G alternator with plug Exhaust Stock exhaust manifolds with Jet-Hot coating 2.25" exhaust system with H pipe Quietest mufflers I can get Transmission Monster AODE Trans, 450Hp, factory stall torque converter, factory shift firmness, 11-1/4" tail housing, 2 bolt starter Transmission Center, 74XXX, fill tube / dip stick Monster engine block plate Ron Morris, 7121, AOD corssmember MSD Atomic, 2760, Transmission controller MSD Atomic, 2939, TPS (throttle position sensor) module MSD Atomic, 2772, Transmission Harness Wiring American Auto Wire, 510662, complete wiring harness that I will modify as needed Instrumentation / Control Dakota Digital, VHX-71F-MUS-K-W, instrument cluster Dakota Digital, GSS-2000, gear shift position indicator Dakota Digital, CRS-3000-1, Cruise Control Revolution Electronics, Intermittent wiper module Blind Spot Detection system (recommendations welcome) Gentex, ADVGEN20A, auto dimming mirror Autoloc, GT2000, power lock actuators Digital Guard Dawg, ikey, pushbutton start with keyless entry Pioneer stero / navigation system with back-up camera SFAS11x, shark fin antenna with AM, FM, GPS, XM Air Conditioner Classic Auto Air, complete kit for 73 Interior Rostra, lumbar support with electric pump for original seats if I keep them. Suggestions welcome on modern power seats people have installed and like. Quite Ride Solutions, MUST 7173-FBAK, complete insulation kit Quite Ride Solutions, MUST 7173-AC, Firewall insulator
  12. Autoworks lists the kit below for 69-70's. https://www.autoworksparts.com/product/1969-1970-mustang-power-door-lock-kit I don't care about switches, I am just looking for actuators. I want the key and knob to still work. I want to add actuators to tie into the a keyless entry that I am contemplating for the car.
  13. Does anyone make a power door lock kit for 71-73 cars? I can only find 65 - 70. If not, does anyone have a recommendation for a generic kit they have installed and are happy with?
  14. As long as I can carry on a conversation in a normal tone of voice I will be satisfied. I am guessing the lack of a vent window is probably a big plus for these cars. Thanks for the feedback. I will be posting my plans for the car in the next few weeks and will be looking for feedback regarding which products people have had the most success with.
  15. Hello all. I am new to your forum, but I have owned a 73 Mach1 for about 30 years. The car has been shuffled from one storage location to another for the last 25 years because I just couldn't bring myself to sell it. I have recently completed a frame off restoration of an old Studebaker Hawk and I am currently in the middle of a restoration of Dad's 50 Studebaker. I am starting to plan my next project which will be the Mustang. I am considering building the mustang to be my daily driver. I have looked at all the available suspension, brake and power train mods and I think I can build a car that would be enjoyable to drive every day in modern traffic. The one big question I have left is wind noise. The car would get all new rubber seals and dynamat and lots of sound insulation during the build. What I don't know is how quite these cars can be made in comparison to a modern car. Dad and I took a short road trip in my Studebaker this past weekend to a car show and it was so noisey that we could barely carry on a conversation. The Stude got all new rubber and lots of insulation during the build but the vent windows just don't seal very well. Looking for any comparison between the noise in a properly restored 73 mustang and a modern car. I would hate to spend $30K on a restoration and then find the car is too noisey to enjoy driving.
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