autonomousbronco

😂

Thanks Ray, I agree and when I had my ‘65 concours trailer queen, I remember every time I took it out....it was white knuckle. That’s why when I picked my ‘72, I wanted to enjoy the car and take it out for cruises without having my blood pressure elevated the entire drive. I intentionally choose to have these aesthetic modifications done (I didn’t cut or drill holes etc. so the next guy or gal can return it to stock if he or she wants). I also got tired of people walking up to my ‘65 and telling me what they thought was wrong, my favorite was when they said the fender bolts had the w

You’re also the reason many youth stay away from classic cars, don’t take this the wrong way.

I had a 65 concours car (grand national winner that Perkin’s knows of), that’s why I love the Restomod. I’m aware, thanks for pointing out the obvious.

I’ve had several, for different late model cars. They’re fantastic. The only thing I’d be careful of is using plastic conditioners, it can make them slippery, that said...they’re a solid product made in the USA...’nuff said.

She’s at the front of the collection. The curator told me that the mechanic on staff stopped dead in his tracks as he walked by...any member’s in the area want to see it, PM me and I’ll be happy to work something out with the museum.

I'd like to chime in and say that the new Batmobile (2021) has several similarities to our car's design. The long hood, tucked in grill, and near horizontal rear-quarter panels/rear window rake have an uncanny similarity to the 71-73's. I guess they were just ahead of their time.

I switched to a top loader from the FMX. The hardest part was the Z-bar installation.

It seems that I've found the culprit. I thought I'd play it safe and decided to directly visualize/inspect the headlight wiring harness as well as the connectors to the headlight switch. So, I pulled the dash and luckily everything appears to be intact! The headlight switch on the other hand was burn't as it literally fell apart as I removed it. I've uploaded the picture of the switch with its replacement. I suspect that the copper tag in the image, after many years of fatigue, broke off and shorted the switch assembly thus causing the plastic center of the switch to burn (I've circled it

Thank you all for the input! @Kcmash, yes they are Halogens and were on when the "magic smoke" appeared. Regarding the headlight sockets or a poor ground being part of the chain of events that contributed to the problem...That morning, I had just had the engine coolant flushed and the (I'll use a euphemism and just say the "inexperienced") "tech" at the shop used a device that pressurized the radiator hose whilst suctioning the radiator cap...well, he messed up and managed to "bathe" my engine bay with Toyota red antifreeze (I've used it due to the heads being aluminum) anyways, it soake

I was driving earlier today and smelt the telltale aroma of burning electronics. Luckily, I was able to quickly pull over and then via a generic quick-disconnect (highly recommend) quickly disconnect the battery; I then readied the fire extinguisher I keep behind my seat. Luckily, nothing appeared to smolder nor burn. I searched under the dash and the headlight switch was very hot to the touch and still had some residual smoke. The wires appeared intact. I debated calling AAA but felt confident after testing the other systems (radio/heater blower), that as long as the headlight circuit was off