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Everything posted by autonomousbronco

  1. Just a consideration, regarding “ruining cars,” it might take a decade or so for the damage to become visible given the affected spots would be in locations that aren’t easily gotten to by a pressure washer. Also, regarding phosphoric acid, no that wouldn’t be an issue but rather protective if it reaches the caustic agents to neutralize and then protect said metal. Again, theoretically the process should be sound so long as done properly.
  2. Again, theoretically, just like buffing paint, if done properly and with the correct materials, it shouldn't be an issue and you'll have great results. That said, if done incorrectly, well...we all know the rest. I was just stressing the importance of finding a good shop; I like WOM (word of mouth) rather than online google reviews as those can be "optimized" i.e. manipulated for the right price.
  3. That's a great write up on the process; that said, given the parts were soaked in an acid and then pressure washed to remove the agents, I'd be leery of the pressure wash's efficacy of getting into the proverbial nooks and crannies. I'm sure that finding the correct shop would be key to ensuring that the last process completely removes the active chemical agents.
  4. I'm sure that there's a right and a wrong way to do the acid bath...that said, I had a good friend that had his '56 Chevy frame ruined by an acid bath due to micro-fractures in the frame's metal being seeded/penetrated by the acid; Also, I've heard good things regarding using almond or walnut shells for the media if you want to preserve rubber etc. but still remove oxidation and paint
  5. Sounds like you’ve made much progress to say the least, and that’s great you don’t have to worry about ancillary brake components. I hope that you have luck with finding a body shop…Sadly, I’ve found that most people these days are just “part changers” or just talk out of their hindquarters; given that working on our stang’s requires a skilled craftsman, word of mouth is 10/10 better than suspect google reviews when finding a decent shop. I’d chat it up with your local mustang club and ask about prior experiences 🙄 Lastly, I didn’t want to forget to mention, given you’ve redone everything forward of the firewall…don’t do what I did…run a relay if you don’t switch to LED headlights, the dash mounted headlight switch is easily overloaded with modern halogens and can turn your ‘stang into a “roadside Webber.”
  6. Regarding stopping fast enough, if you go to front discs…don’t forget to change the proportioning valve and the master cylinder! The drum/standard aforementioned parts won’t have the right pressure to send to the front calipers vs the rear and the master will be a different volume as well as pedal pressure and travel. These parts are often an overlooked part of this upgrade and can lead to paradoxically longer stopping distances if not done right. You can do it on a budget if you get used parts, but make sure they all are designed to work with each other (trust me…I’ve also learned the hard way) 😫 Good luck with your ‘stang’s restoration and the forums are a fantastic resource, welcome back to the hobby!
  7. Best of luck with your headliner restoration! I would recommend a "while you're in there project," be picking up a rattle can of vinyl/plastic touch up paint for the A and C pillars, as well as the seatbelt hooks. I also used some semigloss (or check with the concours guys for the correct sheen) to touch up the screws post wire brushing to remove any oxidation.
  8. Didn't mean to highjack the post but thank you @Mustang Guru. I found original pictures of my car, prior to the repaint, it lacked the hockey stick stripes. Prior to now, I always wondered why I saw some with or without the chrome trim.
  9. I love the color combo but I might be biased! Btw, I noticed that your Mach 1, like mine, has the chrome trim running above the rockers...Does anyone know why some Mach 1's have this and others don't? Was it part of an option package etc?
  10. Just had an update from the curator, Carroll Shelby's widow and family stopped the museum and they loved the car! They even took a photo in front of it, see attached:
  11. You can also always try a phenolic spacer for the carb (measure hood clearance first)...it’ll keep it cooler during run times and prevent the fuel from boiling off post shutdown.
  12. I had a similar issue that Don mentioned/cautioned against with the reduced voltage wire supplying my MSD CDI system. Because of this, my MSD/ignition had insufficient voltage and thus the car would "fall off a cliff" when trying to rev past 5,400 (the engine acted like the valves were floating). Once I ran a dedicated 12V+ via a relay from the battery to the MSD system...It pulls hard all the way up to my rev limiter without any hesitation.
  13. Thanks Ray, I agree and when I had my ‘65 concours trailer queen, I remember every time I took it out....it was white knuckle. That’s why when I picked my ‘72, I wanted to enjoy the car and take it out for cruises without having my blood pressure elevated the entire drive. I intentionally choose to have these aesthetic modifications done (I didn’t cut or drill holes etc. so the next guy or gal can return it to stock if he or she wants). I also got tired of people walking up to my ‘65 and telling me what they thought was wrong, my favorite was when they said the fender bolts had the wrong markings and they didn’t know it was a San Jose Plant car rather than a Dearborn produced Mustang. Thanks to everyone for contributing to this discussion and keeping the passion for the 71-73’s going strong. I’d also like to say again if any member is to near Oxnard, CA and would like to see the Museum’s collection, DM and I’ll cover the cost. Best, Henry
  14. You’re also the reason many youth stay away from classic cars, don’t take this the wrong way.
  15. I had a 65 concours car (grand national winner that Perkin’s knows of), that’s why I love the Restomod. I’m aware, thanks for pointing out the obvious.
  16. I’ve had several, for different late model cars. They’re fantastic. The only thing I’d be careful of is using plastic conditioners, it can make them slippery, that said...they’re a solid product made in the USA...’nuff said.
  17. She’s at the front of the collection. The curator told me that the mechanic on staff stopped dead in his tracks as he walked by...any member’s in the area want to see it, PM me and I’ll be happy to work something out with the museum.
  18. I'd like to chime in and say that the new Batmobile (2021) has several similarities to our car's design. The long hood, tucked in grill, and near horizontal rear-quarter panels/rear window rake have an uncanny similarity to the 71-73's. I guess they were just ahead of their time.
  19. I switched to a top loader from the FMX. The hardest part was the Z-bar installation.
  20. It seems that I've found the culprit. I thought I'd play it safe and decided to directly visualize/inspect the headlight wiring harness as well as the connectors to the headlight switch. So, I pulled the dash and luckily everything appears to be intact! The headlight switch on the other hand was burn't as it literally fell apart as I removed it. I've uploaded the picture of the switch with its replacement. I suspect that the copper tag in the image, after many years of fatigue, broke off and shorted the switch assembly thus causing the plastic center of the switch to burn (I've circled it in red). I'd say the heat from the shorted tang caused the ceramic backing for the resistor to then fracture (or perhaps it cracked first thus dislodging the tang). Either way, I'm going to take the rest of the dash apart to check the entire length of the wiring loom as a scant amount of smoke also arose through the passenger side dash between the glove box and the door jam.
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