B229218

Just replaceds with electric flasher-it now flashes but lights not flashing, burnt out circut breaker? All bulbs still incandescent except for led in dakota digital dash .

Anyone have a photo of location of circut breaker for hazard lights? The diagram show one.

Or ditch that egr plate, car is already not stock so why keep p.o.s. smog part?

All lights work except emergency flashers don`t. test light bright going into flasher, very dull coming out. tried new flasher, lo.e.d. dakota dash, all other bulbs non- L.E.D. Thoughts?

I will try brake fluid, thanks. The lights are out of the car so paint is safe.

I pulled apart the lenses and trying to figure out how to polish the sides with buffing wheel and got compound dug in the tiny raised edges! Anybody out there have ideas on liquid polish that will not get stuck in the nooks?

Looks bitchin to me!!

So true---

Yup if you got a flat lobe done rebuild the engine you Will have metal flakes through the entire engine especially in the bearings

Does your Carb have removable idle air bleeds up above? if it does go larger this will lean it out it’s worth a shot it really solve my problem with the over rich situation You can buy a set of blank set screws from McMaster Carr very cheap and you just drove all the ones you need read up on a book Super tuning volleys By Dave vizard

Well, sounds like b.s. since steel cranks came only on boss 429`s

If you had to drill holes then you have a big cam. Vacuum advance will help run better FULL manifold vacuum, stick a allen wrench into can to adjust. Set up carb screws as previous posters, then play with idle speed with ca. Contrary to popular belief high timing at idle will NOT cause overheating, II run 12 degrees can advance + 22initial, 34 total= 46 total with can at speed ,runs great, hit the gas and vacuum goes away, ported vacuum was for emissions, not drivability, try it out, what you have to lose?

Ohio mustang supply now carries reproductions.

Man, that is great, thank you for getting that bezel reproduced.