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Everything posted by B229218

  1. Has anyone compare the performance of a factory AC box to The aftermarket offerings
  2. With a dash pad remove look through the window windshield you should look down and see where the cable goes into this barometer put your hand in there and push down on the collar and remove it
  3. looking for advice on reusing factory restored a/c system with sanden compressor versus various aftermarket cases, also which condensor works the best?
  4. Nevermind, spotted location on 429megasite, located under voltage regulator capacitor bolt hole.
  5. Nevermind! Found it, clamp goes where capacitor is under voltage regulator.
  6. Any one have some pics to post on factory routed battery cables? The set I got from marti woks seem too long for negative side, with a metal bracket that goes I don`t where { shock tower?}
  7. Anyone have pics of correct battery cable routing for negative cable on factory 429cj? i bought repos from mart and seems too long, also has a cable bracket mid-length.
  8. No dimmer, did not need it, not too bright at night to require. The l.e.d. don`t work well with any glare, lose the factory ford bezel lens otherwise the two lenses reflect off each other. Even so, with polarized glasses i hardly can read gauges in daylight, hard for drag racing!
  9. No hazard lights working, the flasher cycles on off, power going in, out solid but no flashing interupt, brake , running lights o.k.?
  10. Thank you Hemikiller! I never thought to check there, those old wiring diagrams don’t always show exactly where things are.
  11. Just replaceds with electric flasher-it now flashes but lights not flashing, burnt out circut breaker? All bulbs still incandescent except for led in dakota digital dash .
  12. Anyone have a photo of location of circut breaker for hazard lights? The diagram show one.
  13. Or ditch that egr plate, car is already not stock so why keep p.o.s. smog part?
  14. All lights work except emergency flashers don`t. test light bright going into flasher, very dull coming out. tried new flasher, lo.e.d. dakota dash, all other bulbs non- L.E.D. Thoughts?
  15. I will try brake fluid, thanks. The lights are out of the car so paint is safe.
    I like the new counsel with the wider armrest.
  16. I pulled apart the lenses and trying to figure out how to polish the sides with buffing wheel and got compound dug in the tiny raised edges! Anybody out there have ideas on liquid polish that will not get stuck in the nooks?
  17. Yup if you got a flat lobe done rebuild the engine you Will have metal flakes through the entire engine especially in the bearings
  18. Does your Carb have removable idle air bleeds up above? if it does go larger this will lean it out it’s worth a shot it really solve my problem with the over rich situation You can buy a set of blank set screws from McMaster Carr very cheap and you just drove all the ones you need read up on a book Super tuning volleys By Dave vizard
  19. Well, sounds like b.s. since steel cranks came only on boss 429`s
  20. If you had to drill holes then you have a big cam. Vacuum advance will help run better FULL manifold vacuum, stick a allen wrench into can to adjust. Set up carb screws as previous posters, then play with idle speed with ca. Contrary to popular belief high timing at idle will NOT cause overheating, II run 12 degrees can advance + 22initial, 34 total= 46 total with can at speed ,runs great, hit the gas and vacuum goes away, ported vacuum was for emissions, not drivability, try it out, what you have to lose?
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