Danoh1

Nice. Wish I had my old 72 R code back. Just should have saved my pennies better. Now I have more invested in 2 non running fixer uppers than I could have bought my old car back!

I have had good results with SEM trim black. It has a little more texture than the hot rod black. But the hot rod black is closer to the right level of semi gloss.

6972Boss, I need to send you a link for your new email address. I cant message you through the website. Send me an email at daniel@72rcode.org.

Sorry lads. Been tied up with work. I will get on it this week and get you guys hooked up with email.

thanks for noticing my cars! Cool build on yours. I also used Moffats car as inspiration. My theme is: what would I have built in 70 or 71 if had an uncle in the know, but a small budget. i suggest: watts link. Fays II is easy to install and functions exactly like original cars. Big springs. Small sway bar. Use the period correct Lincoln big brakes in front. They work well. Get the cooling duct kit from Cobra. Cobra automotive stuff costs more. It’s worth it. Their stuff fits. I have D0ZX style rear brakes, similar to the Boss 302 chassis manual set up. I’m a big fan of ope

I vintage road raced my 72 H.O. for many years. Currently, I race a faithful Boss 302 T/A replica. Good stuff. I highly discourage a 351C for road racing, unless you run a dry sump system. This was a very expensive lesson for me to learn. You don’t really need the KK droop. You can drop the control arm 1.5 inches and it will be plenty low. You will have to notch the area under the upper control arm, no biggie. The KK droop is a lot of work, but very cool. I have a CD available of many KK blue prints. It’s not all of them, but it’s the most complete set available. Send me your ema

Any updates? The original problem as described sounds like crossed wires. Could be as simple as that. Could be the wrong firing order, but it won’t even try to fire or pop with the early firing order.

Looks like your new bar is a 1970 bar.

Drain out and run in your other car. Try to run Ethanol free fuel. The alcohol is very bad on carbs. Berryman’s chemtool fuel system cleaner is my personal favorite. My old Kawasaki’s carbs get gunned up easily and often. I put The whole can of Berrymans in and it will usually clear them up in 100 miles (in about an hour....)

Excellent.

All of the off the shelf oil is so much better than any oil you could buy when these cars were new. Most of the cars are rarely driven and even more rarely driven hard. I don't think it matters much. With that said: My new cars get synthetic oil. Once a year. My 25 year old GMC van with a SBC gets whatever cheap stuff I have laying around when ever I get around to changing the oil. My high compression, high RPM Boss 302 race engine gets 12 quarts of Valvoline VR1 + 1 Qt of Lucas every other race weekend or 5 hours. A new NASCAR sized monster filter every other oil change. I don't

I bought the domain 72Rcode.org. If any R code owners want to have a "yourname@72Rcode.org" email address, send me a PM. I'll set you up with an email address. I haven't done anything with the website. I'm trying to post my old magazine article on it, but haven't figured out how to hang a pdf on a website. Yet.

Millions of Cleveland’s built and ran fine without. Add extra quart to stock pan, bigger pan, and or bigger oil filter. Or even a dual filter. I run an oil cooler on my racecar.

Ref the 3rd one mentioned above. Was it near Washington WV?

Boss 302 yes, screw in freeze plugs. Boss 351/HO....no.