Danoh1

Nice. Wish I had my old 72 R code back. Just should have saved my pennies better. Now I have more invested in 2 non running fixer uppers than I could have bought my old car back!

I have had good results with SEM trim black. It has a little more texture than the hot rod black. But the hot rod black is closer to the right level of semi gloss.

6972Boss, I need to send you a link for your new email address. I cant message you through the website. Send me an email at daniel@72rcode.org.

Sorry lads. Been tied up with work. I will get on it this week and get you guys hooked up with email.

thanks for noticing my cars! Cool build on yours. I also used Moffats car as inspiration. My theme is: what would I have built in 70 or 71 if had an uncle in the know, but a small budget. i suggest: watts link. Fays II is easy to install and functions exactly like original cars. Big springs. Small sway bar. Use the period correct Lincoln big brakes in front. They work well. Get the cooling duct kit from Cobra. Cobra automotive stuff costs more. It’s worth it. Their stuff fits. I have D0ZX style rear brakes, similar to the Boss 302 chassis manual set up. I’m a big fan of open tracker. His stuff is good. Roller UCA, perches, and his braced LCAs with bearing. You can also get LCAs with a larger replaceable ball joint. Replace your lower control arm eccentrics with the adjustable camber plates. You will need big oil cooler. Won’t need trans or diff cooler. Use a circle track fuel cell and save 1500 dollars. Install subframe connectors. You can adapt a corvette Power steering box and get 12:1 ratio. Stock ps pump is fine, with a cooler. Never had a problem. if you go with a hydraulic clutch....we should talk.

I vintage road raced my 72 H.O. for many years. Currently, I race a faithful Boss 302 T/A replica. Good stuff. I highly discourage a 351C for road racing, unless you run a dry sump system. This was a very expensive lesson for me to learn. You don’t really need the KK droop. You can drop the control arm 1.5 inches and it will be plenty low. You will have to notch the area under the upper control arm, no biggie. The KK droop is a lot of work, but very cool. I have a CD available of many KK blue prints. It’s not all of them, but it’s the most complete set available. Send me your email, I’ll send you a sample and index. These were professionally digitized from the original prints in my possession. The originals were not cheap, so I sell the disks for a small charge. happy to share some lessons learned from my builds. Taking my Boss 302 out this upcoming weekend. Shakedown for November at Circuit of the Americas Vintage event.

Any updates? The original problem as described sounds like crossed wires. Could be as simple as that. Could be the wrong firing order, but it won’t even try to fire or pop with the early firing order.

Looks like your new bar is a 1970 bar.

Drain out and run in your other car. Try to run Ethanol free fuel. The alcohol is very bad on carbs. Berryman’s chemtool fuel system cleaner is my personal favorite. My old Kawasaki’s carbs get gunned up easily and often. I put The whole can of Berrymans in and it will usually clear them up in 100 miles (in about an hour....)

Excellent.

All of the off the shelf oil is so much better than any oil you could buy when these cars were new. Most of the cars are rarely driven and even more rarely driven hard. I don't think it matters much. With that said: My new cars get synthetic oil. Once a year. My 25 year old GMC van with a SBC gets whatever cheap stuff I have laying around when ever I get around to changing the oil. My high compression, high RPM Boss 302 race engine gets 12 quarts of Valvoline VR1 + 1 Qt of Lucas every other race weekend or 5 hours. A new NASCAR sized monster filter every other oil change. I don't like synthetic in old engines. It's too viscous. Creates leaks. When my 2 street cars are finally on the road, they will both get Valvoline VR1 for break in. havent decided what I'll run in them afterwards. no hurry to decide.

I bought the domain 72Rcode.org. If any R code owners want to have a "yourname@72Rcode.org" email address, send me a PM. I'll set you up with an email address. I haven't done anything with the website. I'm trying to post my old magazine article on it, but haven't figured out how to hang a pdf on a website. Yet.

Millions of Cleveland’s built and ran fine without. Add extra quart to stock pan, bigger pan, and or bigger oil filter. Or even a dual filter. I run an oil cooler on my racecar.

Ref the 3rd one mentioned above. Was it near Washington WV?

Boss 302 yes, screw in freeze plugs. Boss 351/HO....no.

Good plan. There are good cars out there for money.

Yes. You should re-inforce the thin firewall sheet metal. Cut a small 1/8 plate to fit. Or, attach a brace running from the master cylinder to the shock tower. I think Modern drive line might make a firewall reinforcement plate. But it should be easy to make. i have both on my TA car.

I have a McLeod hydraulic release bearing on my Boss 302. Almost 20 years. No issues. You have air in the line. I’m not familiar with the Tilton, but I bet almost the same. Mine has a bleeder line with a screw in bleeder fitting. Air will get past the threads on the bleeder line if you “pump” the pedal to bleed with the valve open. It will not bleed with a mighty vac type of set up. I MUST have someone push the pedal while I crack the bleeder. Then close the bleeder before the helper allows the pedal up. Now I just open the valve and let the fluid push out the bleeder, then close it mid stream.

Just received my copy of Rick Ybarra’s Boss 351 book. Great job. Bravo. Everyone should get a copy. He states at the time of printing in 2016 he had identified only 20 or so 72 R’s. There are 13 so far that I counted on this forum thread. Plus the one I owned in the past and have one now. 15. Plus there is a yellow coupe I’ve seen a magazine article on. He put some period correct looking “351 H.O” fender decals on it. He posted on FB that it burned. Plus there is another guy I spoke with via email a couple months ago that had to sell his super nice red one. So that is 17. I saw one at Russo and Steele in AZ 15+ years ago. There was a coupe for sale in the early 90s in N.C. I was interested in. 19. No idea if Rick included any of these in his count of 20. So less than 40 accounted for regardless. With one known destroyed. 25 years ago I attempted to start a registry. The Internet was young. It didnt get much traction. Someone sent me all the VIN info they had from an earlier effort. I’m a bit of a pack rat, so I’m sure I still have it. No idea where I put it though. I think it had about 12 or 15 cars on it. Might have been sent from Tim Cole. I’ve pulled a lot Gs and suffered through one batshit crazy now ex wife since then. Forgive me for forgetting some of the particulars. My ex 72 R code. Originally medium Lime green metallic. Mach 1 with deluxe black interior, AM 8 track and magnums. No fold down. Mixing it up at Hallett motor speedway in OK, probably 20 years ago.

Just place the manifold on dry. Drop the bolts you have in the holes. Arrange them so they all stick up about the same.

I’ve had great success with Quick Time carbs from Summit. Bolt on and go on half a dozen Mustangs and one truck. If you are real cheap, you can have the center portion of your stock intake milled out. And bolt a standard Holley style carb on. I suggest you just get a stock style aluminum dual plane intake and install it. An earlier square bore manifold will work fine, but will cost you more to ship it than to buy it. The modern air gap style intakes are too tall. To use ram air, you have to stay with a low profile dual plane. Maybe a Holley street dominator will work. I’m not positive.

Looks great. What part of SW Texas are you in? I lived in Del Rio for 15 years or so. In Central Texas now.

I’m not licensed in PA. So car guy friendly advice only. But I am a licensed public insurance adjuster in 6 states. You don’t have to accept their offer. You are in charge. The most unreasonable person in the room wins. Don’t play nice. You should be able to get more money, a clear title, or a cheaper buy back. Probbaly 2 of those, It’s your car. You don’t have to release it. Get some independent estimates, show some comparable prices. If I recall, this was a not your fault accident, right. The other persons insurance is liable, correct.? Or is this your insurance company? You can message me or email me for a private pep talk. Daniel@72Rcode.org For your rebuild: Highly recommend the full meal deal from open tracker roller UCA, perches and improved LCA. and then some very good shocks. It will cost less, handle great, and be much easier to install. VIKING makes a great custom double adjustable shock. Koni -blah. Penske has some crazy good shocks if you simply must help stimulate the economy at 1k per corner. I personally would start with a fresh car and use your parts. But that’s me.

I don’t get the Holley problems. I’ve used nothing but Holley for 30+ years. No issues. For most customer cars, I go,with the Quick fuel version, as it is priced right. Zero issues with them as well. I know the Edelbrock can work well, I’ve seen it. Just never messed with them

You know the 69-70 shock top fits our cars. You can get a fancy double or triple adjustable shock for a70. Get the shock top, and it works just fine.