Parkka

I need a new NASA hood. I would prefer an OEM in good shape, but if need be I'll take an aftermarket. I'm up in the New England area. There are a few websites to get a new hood (not OEM) but i don't know which one would have a quality part. NPD Goodmark Carid etc, etc. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks, dan

I Used a putty knife, flathead screwdriver and any other type of chisel to lift the heavy grime off the surface and within the corners. Then I used 'Finish 1 - FT200'. This was also called 'prepsol' in the early 70's and 80's. Apply with a rag and dry before it dries on its own. Be sure to have a lot of rags, as they will become black very quickly from the grime on the floor.

For the spot welder, it 'must' be down to pure metal. Any primer remaining can interfere on all contact surfaces. So you need to clean 4 basic sides. I painted the support before putting it on the car and then cleaned down the contact area to metal. Drilled out the original welds only on the old panel. Did not go through the forward aprons. This way, it was clean sheet of metal over another clean sheet. The 240v was needed at the lower frame supports. The upper welds to the aprons you can use the smaller 120v welder and plug into house current; or use the 240v; just don't burn through. For the upper welds at the aprons, you need an extension on the driver's side due to the downward angle as shown in the photo below. The passenger's side was down with the short probes.

I recently replaced my vert's radiator support with the same one. No modifications made. I used a 240v spot welder from Harbor Freight. They have a 120v, but it was not strong enough to penetrate the heavy steal at the lower supports. For the 240v source, plugged into the dryer plug in the house and ran an extension out to the garage. 240V Spot Welder (harborfreight.com)https://www.harborfreight.com/240v-spot-welder-61206.html I have photos of the entire process if you want them.

Thank you for the complete layout before i rip it out of the door. For those interested, here is the back of the rear quarter switch which i took out today and according is the same as the other single switches. thank you to all

You are correct, I will move to the quarters and see if it is correct. If so, I'll send a picture for others.

Below are two photographs of the passenger's door electrical window pigtail. When I took the panel off, I found the yellow wire in the photo taped to the back of the pigtail it was not connected. The yellow wire is however a part of the harness and is molded in. I had problems with 'all' of the windows and have found other electrical problems that have I have corrected. I have numbered the slots in the pigtail to help you explain if it does in fact go back into this pigtail, as there are times that wires are not used in certain circumstances. With that said, I believe it goes into slot 5, but before I fry the system, I wanted to ask to be sure. Thank you and Happy Father's Day

Here is a link to the original pins from Ford. Still in the package. 1964-1973 Mustang GT CS Mach 1 Boss Grande Shelby Cougar Xr7 NOS DOOR HINGE PINS | eBay

Thank you for the comments. I will need to check the frame supports to see which one is on the Vert and whether or not they are damaged. The Machine shop did not comment on what they may have found.

When the engine was installed by the machine shop, two Prothane Motor mounts (6-503) were installed to replace the original worn ones from Ford. According to the machine shop, the Prothane mounts have a slightly lower profile than the Ford originals due to the polyurethane material. As a result, a clearance of approx 1/8 of an inch was now created between the oil pan outer corners and the cross member. My question is what should the proper clearance distance be on a 302 engine to the crossmember? The machine shop would like to install 1/4 inch plates between the motor mounts and the engine block which are shown below (black). Also below is a photo of the present clearance between the oil pan and the crossmember (1/8 inch) without the plates. The plates would raise the engine; hence an increase in the clearance would occur. They are not worried about the drivetrain, but rather any lateral torqueing of the engine during startup and whether or not the oil pan will contact the cross member if the plates are not installed. Below is the Prothane motor mount and the black 1/4 inch plate. Numerous phone calls to Prothane have been made where they indicate the mounts are the correct ones.

Be sure the handle in the back is positioned as shown in the photograph below and pointing away from the inner motor coil. If you have it 180 degrees the other way, it may stop in the up position on the windshield. The handle can mount either way.

Are these the springs which cause the latch hook (506A48 in the schematic) to extend further forward to gab the sill when the latch handle is pushed towards the front? I have one hook that simply just hangs straight down. If so, then my spring on the passenger's side would also be broken inside and I'd be interested in a replacement also. dan

I ordered the power steering pipe extension and it should be here by monday, so on tuesday I'll have it down to the machine shop for the final fitting test. I'll let you know how it goes. as for the cam, its an Edelbrock Performer-Plus for a 302 (2122) with Edelbrock 1.6:1 rockers (77780), Edelbrock Performer 289 Manifold (21213) and E-Street 5023 cylinder Heads. Nothing outrages.

Here is the engine that was finally completed. Just waiting for the power steering hose before it goes back in. After I removed all of the a/c, I left the mounting bracket and attached a 'Ford' plate. The plate was originally designed to fit along the top of the a/c compressor, so with the same specifications, it fit perfectly on the compressor based if any one is interested in doing that to theirs. Dan

Ok. I've ordered the tube Don C indicated and 'another' pressure tube from NPD. I'll let you know if this setup works so that others will know. Dan