Parkka

Here is a link to the original pins from Ford. Still in the package. 1964-1973 Mustang GT CS Mach 1 Boss Grande Shelby Cougar Xr7 NOS DOOR HINGE PINS | eBay

Thank you for the comments. I will need to check the frame supports to see which one is on the Vert and whether or not they are damaged. The Machine shop did not comment on what they may have found.

When the engine was installed by the machine shop, two Prothane Motor mounts (6-503) were installed to replace the original worn ones from Ford. According to the machine shop, the Prothane mounts have a slightly lower profile than the Ford originals due to the polyurethane material. As a result, a clearance of approx 1/8 of an inch was now created between the oil pan outer corners and the cross member. My question is what should the proper clearance distance be on a 302 engine to the crossmember? The machine shop would like to install 1/4 inch plates between the motor mounts and the engine block which are shown below (black). Also below is a photo of the present clearance between the oil pan and the crossmember (1/8 inch) without the plates. The plates would raise the engine; hence an increase in the clearance would occur. They are not worried about the drivetrain, but rather any lateral torqueing of the engine during startup and whether or not the oil pan will contact the cross member if the plates are not installed. Below is the Prothane motor mount and the black 1/4 inch plate. Numerous phone calls to Prothane have been made where they indicate the mounts are the correct ones.

Be sure the handle in the back is positioned as shown in the photograph below and pointing away from the inner motor coil. If you have it 180 degrees the other way, it may stop in the up position on the windshield. The handle can mount either way.

Are these the springs which cause the latch hook (506A48 in the schematic) to extend further forward to gab the sill when the latch handle is pushed towards the front? I have one hook that simply just hangs straight down. If so, then my spring on the passenger's side would also be broken inside and I'd be interested in a replacement also. dan

I ordered the power steering pipe extension and it should be here by monday, so on tuesday I'll have it down to the machine shop for the final fitting test. I'll let you know how it goes. as for the cam, its an Edelbrock Performer-Plus for a 302 (2122) with Edelbrock 1.6:1 rockers (77780), Edelbrock Performer 289 Manifold (21213) and E-Street 5023 cylinder Heads. Nothing outrages.

Here is the engine that was finally completed. Just waiting for the power steering hose before it goes back in. After I removed all of the a/c, I left the mounting bracket and attached a 'Ford' plate. The plate was originally designed to fit along the top of the a/c compressor, so with the same specifications, it fit perfectly on the compressor based if any one is interested in doing that to theirs. Dan

Ok. I've ordered the tube Don C indicated and 'another' pressure tube from NPD. I'll let you know if this setup works so that others will know. Dan

We are having a hard time finding the correct power steering hose (pressure) for our 73 Vert. I've ordered about 3 to 4 from Mustang websites but they all comeback wrong. The machine shop where the engine presently is located also cannot find the correct one as the original hose is worn and the numbers are not legible. Below are three photos of the connections. The machine shop indicates the male end to the pump is 3/8 inverted flare. Can anyone give me an idea of where to go to get the correct hose? Thanks

Thank you to all. I'll be installing a T connection for the sensors

So I take it, that anyone that has installed an aftermarket gauge cluster has basically disconnected the dummy lights. if so, then that answers my question unless someone knows how to get around this problem.

My 302 was quipped with dummy lights in the instrument cluster when it was built. I recently acquired the original three gauge cluster for the center console with the wiring harness that has two display lights. My question is whether or not I can tap directly into the wiring from the sensors in the engine compartment without going to the instrument cluster. That way I would not only have the dummy lights to tell me there is a problem, but also the gauges. The lights would more likely direct me to look at the gauges to get a general idea of what may be happening. Can this be done? Thanks,

Thank you again. My daughter purchased a Fluidampr for me as a gift. She saw I was struggling with this issue. Dan

Thank you. that is what i needed to know. Dan

I am looking for a chromed Harmonic Balancer for a 302. searching Summit Racing, this is the only one i found. Not sure if this is correct. Can anyone steer me in the correct direction and is the PowerForce a good quality replacement? Thanks, Dan

The ones on my vert have been broken and the prior owner decided to melt down the broken ends so it looked somewhat natural; as if to show that they never were part of the upper window seals. This is what was throwing us. Don has them and we'll be ordering shortly. thanks

My back seals on the doors are torn and worn and do not go down to the bottom. All i have is a small strip along the bottom of the doors that reaches onto the sides by 4 to 5 inches.

Can anyone tell me where I can get a set of new weatherstrips for the bottom of the doors on a 73 Vert? The ones on the door 'do not' extend up to the window seals. I've checked numerous places but they all include the seals as a portion of the weatherstrip. The photo below shows the end of the weatherstrip on the passenger door. Thanks

I'm replacing mine in a few weeks with EZ-on. https://ezonauto.com/

with the block all attached, am i able to change out the rings without undoing all the lines and taking the unit out? I already struggled all day in getting this in and buttoned up. It looks like i can get to the inner piston and o-rings through the upper Master Cylinder fitting for the front brakes ??? Is this correct?

After having installed new brake lines and connected them to the distribution block, ( D2ZA 2B328 AA X ) I finally isolated where a single leak was coming from and it happens to be the brake warning switch. It is a good leak and I am positive fluid is coming out of this particular port. All other lines are dry. Isn't this suppose to be a dry cavity with no brake fluid in there whatsoever? If it is, why do i have fluid here and how do I fix the problem? Thanks, Dan

Thank you, dan

Has anyone seen one of these and where can it be decoded? It was discovered in the rear seat as we took off the fabric. Its been cleaned up as shown below thanks, dan

Thank you. I just did not want to overfill at the first attempt.