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Parkka

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Posts posted by Parkka

  1. After having installed new brake lines and connected them to the distribution block, ( D2ZA 2B328 AA X ) I finally isolated where a single leak was coming from and it happens to be the brake warning switch.  It is a good leak and I am positive fluid is coming out of this particular port. All other lines are dry.

    Isn't this suppose to be a dry cavity with no brake fluid in there whatsoever?  If it is, why do i have fluid here and how do I fix the problem?

     

     

    Thanks,

    Dan

     

    Distribution-Block.jpg

  2. The C4 was rebuilt back in 2018 and the proper fluid level had been added.

    In order to do some additional maintenance, we then removed the tail shaft and the transmission pan about 1 year later.  We were not able to capture all of the leaking transmission fluid to measure, so we do not have any idea as to how many quarts were lost.

    The repair manual indicates 9 quarts are required for a c4 and we know the transmission still has an amount in the bell housing area.  My question is how many quarts are needed to top-off the system after only removing the tail shaft and pan?

     

    Thanks,

    Dan

  3. I believe you should have some adjustment n the maindash assembly mounts that goes Left to right.  

     

    I believe there is adjustment in the bolts that fasten to the A-pillar brackets.

     

    How extensive was your body rebuild?  Any chance things got mis=aligned during body refurb?

     

    kcmash

     

    I stripped it bare.  I drilled alignment holes in every bracket I took off.  It could have been off center when I got the car and just didn't notice it.  Didn't have it very long before I started stripping it.  There is adjustment in the main dash assembly and I have slid it to the left as far as it will go.   I'll pull the dash cluster out tomorrow and see if I can get to the bolts that holds the main bracket.  I hoping that the boxed in nuts in the cowl have some side to side adjustment.  Hate pulling the cluster.  The cluster circuit board isn't in the best of shape and the contacts are coming loose from the backing.  Got everything nice and tidy behind there before putting the dash in today.

    I had the same problem.  my issue was at the firewall.  i had inadvertently tightened all the other bolts first 'before' I tightened the main bracket at the firewall; specifically the ones on the right side.  This now torqued the entire brace to the left like you have.  Loosened everything back up and started back at the brace.  That fixed the problem.

     

    DSCN3177.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. Started the upper build on the 302 engine where we have chosen a red, black and chrome concept.   Attached are the photos.

     

    Now we've run into a question regarding rockers and pushrods.  This is what we have

     

    Holley Street Avenger 570 CFM

    Edelbrock Performer Manifold

    Edelbrock E-Street Cylinder Heads 

          Valve Springs for Hydraulic Flat Tappet

          Port Volume: 170cc/60cc

          Valve Size: 1.90"/1.60"

          60cc Combustion Chambers

          3/8" Rocker Stud

          Max Lift - .550"

    Edelbrock Performer Plus Camshaft

          Lift: .448''/.472''

          Duration @ .050: 204°/214°

          Advertised Duration: 270°/280°

          Idle-5500 RPM Range

    Edelbrock Victor Alluminum Water Pump

    Edelbrock Performer Link Timing Chain

     

    My question is what type of rockers and shafts should we use to complete the upper build?  We are looking at the Edelbrock Red Roller Rocker  ( 3/8", 1.6 to 1 Ratio ) and  pushrods ( Length: 6.805" Dia- 5/16 ).

    Will these work? 

     

    thank you...

    IMG-20200321-183818502.jpg

     

    IMG-20200321-183846860.jpg

     

    IMG-20200321-183906524.jpg

     

    IMG-20200321-183926082.jpg

  5. Hi Dave, have now got a 67 vert and need a new top. As you are a guru on these what is the pick to get. I am down under so anything has to be shipped to me anyway. 

    Also I am looking for a Towne Top in any condition or do you know who make a repo at all. Will need it shipped tp MN.Thanks again ::thumb::

     

    I'm not a guru my friend.  This is the first time we've ever attempted this.  i was always told; If man can build it, man can take it apart.... :chin:

     

    here is the website for the top manufacture we chose.

     

    https://ezonauto.gahh.com/media/ezon2019catalog/index.html?page=1

     

    good luck.

    • Like 1
  6. The new top came in today. It was packaged within a box, in another box and finally a shipping box.

    Below are several photos of the packaging and the material laid out for those that are interested.

    The kit also came with the front header bead which sits along the upper windshield rail, rear bow welting and also the two end caps just above the rear glass.

    Now the fun starts in a few weeks......

     

    IMG-20200312-152257163.jpg

     

    IMG-20200312-152448066.jpg

     

    IMG-20200312-152608800.jpg

     

    IMG-20200312-152706276.jpg

     

    IMG-20200312-152832952.jpg

     

    IMG-20200312-152904976.jpg

     

    IMG-20200312-153022191.jpg

    • Like 1
  7. Thank you for all the advice. After I remove the fabric, we plan on taking out the entire frame system and reconditioning it with primer and paint. This also includes the inner body where the tack strips are connected. From there, we'll put the whole thing back on and I'll photograph each step and let all know the problems and the accomplishments over several threads along the way. We plan on starting this project next month after the top fabric is delivered. i can still drive the car around without the top while its being redone. Hopefully we'll finish it by the end of June; depending if the wife lets me out in the garage.

     

    Thanks again,

    dan

     

    IMG-20200216-103247236.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. Yes,

    that is where i got the EZon reference and the reason why we are attempting this on our own. It would also seem easier to reverse the process and start at the front and pull back. If i start at the front, the back can then be pulled behind the braces to tighten up the wrinkles. Mark it with chalk and then staple it out. In the video, they take it on, take it off and then back on again several times. I cannot believe that the Ford Corp would take this amount of time in putting on so many convertible tops in that manner.

  9. Don't know on verts, on my 73 coupe the wire with sleeve is going thru the region in red circle and light as on first pict is screwed at the rectangular opening next to the latch (not on your picts).

     

    Thank you.  That answered both of my questions.... :D

     

    No prob, here's already the answer to your upcoming next question:

    I recall to have used a house electric wire folded as a hook at the end to "fish" the connector/wire and get it thru the hole...

     

    :thankyouyellow: ::thumb:: ::thumb:: ::thumb::

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