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Parkka

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Everything posted by Parkka

  1. This thread dates back to 2012, but it was the best i could find relating to the trunk light. There are two types of lights i can find for sale, but not sure which one is correct and fits the mounting area in the trunk lid. below is a photograph of the two lights and the what appears to be where the light sits in the trunk. Which light is correct for a 73 vert and is this actually the mounting point in the lid? thanks,
  2. question since we are talking about the window guide clip....Is this the same as the one on convertibles? i have one that is missing and need a replacement. The one that was shown on CJ's, is that the same? If not, where can i find one for a vert? Thanks, Dan
  3. I've done the same, and photographed every bolt and nut along the process . Well over 1,000 photos so if you need something, let me know. It's all been categorized.
  4. I 'lightly' sanded down the surface with 400 and water trying not to take down the textured surface. in some places it was just too badly destroyed so there was nothing i could do about that. After, i sprayed them with Accumatch White (#L-15855) outside in the sun and they came out perfect. I applied two coats; as anymore will again begin to fill in the textured surface. On the back, i applied a thin layer of Dynaliner. enjoy, Dan
  5. I also have a vert with white intereor. With the same problem you have, and with obvious scratches from articles and people getting in and/or of the back in the past, i figured it was just going to get scored up again. So i chose to replace them with black plastic. They fit great and actually give an additional accent to the black carpet and center console. Just something to think about. enjoy, Dan
  6. Not trying to promote NPD, but here is the link to the one they have. It is listed as being for a 1970 to 1973. NPD # 1001-4 https://www.npdlink.com/product/gasket-rear-wheel-backing-plate-brake-backing-plate/100707?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Drear%252Baxle%252Bbearing%252Bgasket%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1973&year=1973
  7. Based on what I have read from everyone here on the forum and the RockAuto photo and pdf's, it appears my retainer is the correct one and as Don indicated, it appears the one from NPD and other sites is an extra almost aftermarket replacement for drainage. My retainer is not bent, so i don't need to replace it. I was just very concerned about why it did not appear as the one's with the hollow and worried that someone else may have been in here and screwed it up. Attached below are the two additional photos requested. Very rusty. no oil came out but bearing still spins smooth. Thanks to everyone. It took my worries away. I'll post a rebuild photo later.
  8. i should have clarified what i was looking for. You are correct Don, the gasket i am holding is 1001, but that is not the part i am interested in. The retainer shown in photograph below with the arrow is what concerns me. It has flat sides and the part from NPD has a dip with a hollow. I did check other websites, and they all show the same one as NPD. Also below is a photo of my center housing. Thanks,
  9. Shown below is my 28 spline rear axle from an 8 inch casing. One of the parts required for the rebuild is the rear wheel bearing retainer (NPD # 4020-1). This retainer with the small hollow at the bottom is also shown in the parts manual for Ford with what appears to be a gasket (parts 4234 & 1001). However, my axle set up does not have this. It appears the retainer is flat on all sides without the hollow and there is no gasket. Do i need to replace the retainer i have with the one shown in the parts manual and advertised in NPD? Am i missing something here? Thanks Dan [/url]
  10. It will not sell well.. No one wants to be associated with a '4 door' mustang; let alone electric. Imagine saying, 'hey, look at my new Mustang'. Ahhhh....What? Plus they took the engine out.... its just not natural...
  11. Ford just rolled out its new 2021 Mustang. Its electric and now a 4-door. No longer will they be making the two door power house. What is the world coming too.... Hold onto your horse or they'll probably come and try and take that away too... Dan
  12. I was thinking about filling the space with a sealant from Eastwood. But need to be sure that it does not need to be left open for air as when I seal it, its done. I don't plan on taking the unit off for a long long time after that. It will be my son's problem after i'm gone. Dan
  13. Below are two photos; the back of the power booster and the other the firewall where it mounts. in the power booster photo, an arrow has been inserted to point out a valley which is present on both sides of the unit. The firewall mounting area however is flat with no protruding part to fill the voided space on the power booster. Should this be left open or filled? I had to make a new gasket which of course is flat as the original one was destroyed. Thanks, Dan https://i.ibb.co/YPCFJFP/IMG-20191107-152326038.jpg[/img] https://i.ibb.co/Z6rx6cg/IMG-20191107-152440179.jpg[/img]
  14. I Used a simple 9 volt battery and two leads. Had no problems and I did not burn out the lights. if you have LED's, I used the same 9 volt and extended the small wires off the bulbs and touched the contacts. you may have to switch the wires around from the battery posts, as it will only light one way. that's the simplest way I found.
  15. I'm stuck with this, but that is ok. rather be stuck with a paper weight than have the classic below not run. it is nice to know that stang lovers are reading all of these posts regarding the hv and other components and learning valuable lessons before making a serious mistake. You're all great ! Danhttps://i.ibb.co/j6WMVfL/IMG-20190713-145003409.jpg[/img]
  16. Thank you to all. I will not be putting the HV in the car. You've saved me from a world of future problems So, I also have a new HV if someone is looking for one. Dan
  17. Can someone give me an accurate answer about high volume oil pumps versus stock pumps? Some state that the high volume will work just fine under normal driving conditions and I'll obtain greater performance(decipher that). While others state I will overload the engine and blow various components unless those are also upgraded. I understand the mechanics of the pump and the overall size of the cogs where we are forcing a greater amount of oil volume through constricted areas; just not what may happen in the engine with an increased volume and whether or not the 302 can handle this. The 302 is stock and nothing has been upgraded yes with the exception of the carburetor and fuel lines. Later, Edelbrock E-Street cylinder heads will be attached. We are also planning on replacing the pickup and screen. One of the other reasons for the consideration is the periodic low oil pressure. people have suggested the increase in oil volume will repair this issue. Presently we are running Shell Rotella 15W/40 T4 oil. thanks
  18. after removing the inner shaft, I was able to get the telescopic shaft to move with a little force due to rust. I did not need to move the steering box
  19. Though I do not promote CJ Pony Parts, attached below is a link on YouTube to show you where it is and how to replace.
  20. Take the rotor out and put it in your pocket.... then snap it back in....
  21. Thank you. I have a push-in type modulator and will be getting the adjustable one first and see how that goes. enjoy...
  22. Presently I have a green band around my modulator for the c4 and it needs to be replaced. Before I pull it, not sure if it is the correct one and/or if it has an adjustment screw. I have researched a ton of information as to the colors and basically everyone is all over the place. https://i.ibb.co/5xWCCrG/1.jpg[/img] Can someone please breakdown the colors? NPD also offers a modulator with no color band (D2AZ-7A377-A) and it has an adjustment screw. Do the other colors have an adjustment screw? Would a modulator with a screw be better than one without? thanks
  23. lets try this again..... found this on a PRIOR 7173 forum.... Most shops only have the original alignment specs in their systems. With modern tires, you want 2 to 3 degrees positive caster, and zero to negative 0.5 degrees of camber. Factory toe spec is fine unless the car wanders under hard braking, then increase 1/16".....
  24. Just ripped mine out yesterday. Found the spring that was already in the tower (blue) was far shorter than the one going back in. May explain the hard ride. Ripped the suspension out as one whole unit. al2o3
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