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Posts posted by Parkka

  1. There was a thread that dated back to 2012 regarding this issue, but i did not really answer my question regarding the trunk light. There are two types of lights i can find for sale, but not sure which one is correct and fits the mounting area in the trunk lid. Neither bracket appears to be correct if i have the appropriate mounting point as circled in the photo below. Which light is correct for a 73 vert and is this circled area in the photo actually the mounting point in the lid?












  2. This thread dates back to 2012, but it was the best i could find relating to the trunk light. There are two types of lights i can find for sale, but not sure which one is correct and fits the mounting area in the trunk lid. below is a photograph of the two lights and the what appears to be where the light sits in the trunk. Which light is correct for a 73 vert and is this actually the mounting point in the lid?









  3. I 'lightly' sanded down the surface with 400 and water trying not to take down the textured surface. in some places it was just too badly destroyed so there was nothing i could do about that. After, i sprayed them with Accumatch White (#L-15855) outside in the sun and they came out perfect. I applied two coats; as anymore will again begin to fill in the textured surface. On the back, i applied a thin layer of Dynaliner.






  4. I also have a vert with white intereor. With the same problem you have, and with obvious scratches from articles and people getting in and/or of the back in the past, i figured it was just going to get scored up again. So i chose to replace them with black plastic. They fit great and actually give an additional accent to the black carpet and center console.

    Just something to think about.




  5. Based on what I have read from everyone here on the forum and the RockAuto photo and pdf's, it appears my retainer is the correct one and as Don indicated, it appears the one from NPD and other sites is an extra almost aftermarket replacement for drainage. My retainer is not bent, so i don't need to replace it. I was just very concerned about why it did not appear as the one's with the hollow and worried that someone else may have been in here and screwed it up.

    Attached below are the two additional photos requested. Very rusty. no oil came out but bearing still spins smooth.

    Thanks to everyone. It took my worries away. I'll post a rebuild photo later.




  6. i should have clarified what i was looking for. You are correct Don, the gasket i am holding is 1001, but that is not the part i am interested in. The retainer shown in photograph below with the arrow is what concerns me. It has flat sides and the part from NPD has a dip with a hollow. I did check other websites, and they all show the same one as NPD.

    Also below is a photo of my center housing.





  7. Shown below is my 28 spline rear axle from an 8 inch casing.

    One of the parts required for the rebuild is the rear wheel bearing retainer (NPD # 4020-1).

    This retainer with the small hollow at the bottom is also shown in the parts manual for Ford with what appears to be a gasket (parts 4234 & 1001).

    However, my axle set up does not have this.  It appears the retainer is flat on all sides without the hollow and there is no gasket.

    Do i need to replace the retainer i have with the one shown in the parts manual and advertised in NPD?

    Am i missing something here?






  8. Below are two photos; the back of the power booster and the other the firewall where it mounts.

    in the power booster photo, an arrow has been inserted to point out a valley which is present on both sides of the unit.  The firewall mounting area however is flat with no protruding part to fill the voided space on the power booster.

    Should this be left open or filled?  I had to make a new gasket which of course is flat as the original one was destroyed.







  9. Can anyone tell me how to check my dash lights while I have my dash on the work bench? Proper voltage and where to ground.  Thanks

    I Used a simple 9 volt battery and two leads.  Had no problems and I did not burn out the lights.

    if you have LED's, I used the same 9 volt and extended the small wires off the bulbs and touched the contacts.  you may have to switch the wires around from the battery posts, as it will only light one way.


    that's the simplest way I found.

    • Like 1
  10. I believe that every time I've installed a new oil pump I have pulled it apart, checked clearances and relief spring, cleanliness and appearance. A $40 or $50 part can destroy a $8,000 engine in a few seconds. A new driveshaft is highly recommended, as well. Priming it with a mechanical oil pressure gauge connected is the final test.

    I'm stuck with this, but that is ok. rather be stuck with a paper weight than have the classic below not run.

    it is nice to know that stang lovers are reading all of these posts regarding the hv and other components and learning valuable lessons before making a serious mistake.

    You're all great !



  11. I can't talk about 302's with HV oil pumps, but I can talk about HV pumps on a 351C. 

    Back in 2012, the original, never touched motor in my 71 Mach 1, needed a refresh at 85K miles. Nothing too bad, but definitely tired. I sent the motor to a company that had a very good reputation and the owner said he knew 351C's. He chose two bad things that came back to bite him. One was an HV oil pump and the other was a Pertronix Ignitor III ignition upgrade. He also installed a set of Keith Black Hyper flat top pistons that actually up'd the comp ratio to 11:1 at zero deck, but that's a whole other story.

    In short, after three summers running time, about 3500 miles, the motor started using oil like no tomorrow and making some nasty sounds. The shop owner agreed to pull the motor down and find out why, fortunately under warranty. What they found was a) the first two lobes on the cam were shot and so were the lifter (flat hydraulic), b) the main bearings were totally worn out and c) oil pan full of metal debris. The reason for the cam was the oil was just spraying past them, so they were in effect running almost dry. The debris from the cam took out the mains etc. etc. or at least that is how it was explained to me.

    What it cost the shop was a cam, lifters, and bearings, Crank regrind, new main bearings, hone the cylinder bores and while at it I decided to change the pistons to KB dished top to drop the comp ratio to a more manageable 9.8:1 with quench heads (Closed Chamber) Oh! and install a standard volume oil pump set up correctly for the motor.

    Since then the car has seen another 4500 miles without any issues. Oil pressure is about 50 psi idle and 70 psi running. It's also a stick shift car, so some oil usage is normal. I recently topped the oil after 1200 miles this summer and had to only add 3/4 pint.

    So in short no, don't use a HV oil pump in an unmodified engine oiling system.


    Edit, I do have a Bosch mechanical oil gauge.


    PS, anybody want a HV oil pump for a 351C?????? It's FREE, Pay for shipping only. PM if interested.


    Thank you to all. I will not be putting the HV in the car.  You've saved me from a world of future problems

    So, I also have a new HV if someone is looking for one.


  12. Can someone give me an accurate answer about high volume oil pumps versus stock pumps?

    Some state that the high volume will work just fine under normal driving conditions and I'll obtain greater performance(decipher that).  While others state I will overload the engine and blow various components unless those are also upgraded.


    I understand the mechanics of the pump and the overall size of the cogs where we are forcing a greater amount of oil volume through constricted areas; just not what may happen in the engine with an increased volume and whether or not the 302 can handle this.  The 302 is stock and nothing has been upgraded yes with the exception of the carburetor and fuel lines.  Later, Edelbrock E-Street cylinder heads will be attached.  We are also planning on replacing the pickup and screen.


    One of the other reasons for the consideration is the periodic low oil pressure.  people have suggested the increase in oil volume will repair this issue.  Presently we are running Shell Rotella 15W/40 T4 oil.




  13. I am still messing with low/no fuel issue and I am pretty sure the fuel pump quit working.  First off, where is the fuel pump located on a 1971 Mach 1 302?  If it is in or above the tank,, can it be replaced with the mechanical fuel pump mounted on the DS of the engine?  I am a parts and computer guy...not much of a mechanic so I need an easy fix here guys!  LOL!


    Though I do not promote CJ Pony Parts, attached below is a link on YouTube to show you where it is and how to replace.


  14. Presently I have a green band around my modulator for the c4 and it needs to be replaced.  Before I pull it, not sure if it is the correct one and/or if it has an adjustment screw.


    I have researched a ton of information as to the colors and basically everyone is all over the place.



    Can someone please breakdown the colors?


    NPD also offers a modulator with no color band (D2AZ-7A377-A) and it has an adjustment screw.  Do the other colors have an adjustment screw?  Would a modulator with a screw be better than one without?



  15. lets try this again.....


    found this on a PRIOR 7173 forum....


    Most shops only have the original alignment specs in their systems. With modern tires, you want 2 to 3 degrees positive caster, and zero to negative 0.5 degrees of camber. Factory toe spec is fine unless the car wanders under hard braking, then increase 1/16".....

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