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Everything posted by Parkka

  1. Just ripped mine out yesterday. Found the spring that was already in the tower (blue) was far shorter than the one going back in. May explain the hard ride. Ripped the suspension out as one whole unit. al2o3
  2. The problem remains here...replaced the switch with an original Ford product still in its box...$$$$ Still no dash lights, but all of the warning lamps and gas gauge remain working. I also noticed the climate controls do not light up; as they are married with the instrument lights. I'll need to chase the wiring to see where I finally get a current and then move forward again from there. however that is now placed on hold as I just found another problem that has reared its ugly head; it appears my brake booster is making a sound under the dash similar to a woopy cushion when the brake pedal is compressed. The brakes then become extremely hard to compress. After a few pumps, the power assist returns and it feels normal. Not sure if the diaphragm is unseated or ripped. Dan
  3. Clarification; when I checked the fuse posts, the fuse was 'still' in place. I just did not touch the fuse with the probs. Kind of a double testing..
  4. First on each end of the fuse without any contact to the posts. Then to the posts on each end with no contact to the fuse. both were good.
  5. The area that you are trying to realign is extremely tight to the 90 degree bend or flange. This point of the panel is the strongest and not as easy to push back with a hammer and dolly without heat; as would be the case where a dent is out in the middle. You'd basically be bending or torqueing the outer main body panel as it tries to aleve the in-line pressure from you pounding the flange back down. Then you'd have to bang new dent back in which would send the flange back out again. Pressure has to go somewhere and the panel has to bend to aleve it. I also would suggest you do a relief cut along the outer edge of the main panel adjacent to the smaller flange and directly 'behind' the 90 degree bend. The single cut alone will more likely allow sufficient space to push the smaller flange back down to the blue line where it can be tack welded. if you can do the cut from the 'inside' with a small Dremel the flange would act as a guide for the cutting wheel resulting in a straight cut. Cutting from the inside will also keep you from digging into the flange and causing another mess. Just my two cents.
  6. ok. with the headlight switch pulled out one detent to the parking light position and the rheostat turned to full bright, the continuity setting on the voltage meter sings like a bird. all fuses and fuse connections and the fuse itself are good in the fuse block. The climate control also does not light up; as they are connected to the same wire set for the dash illumination. Does this now sound like the headlight switch is bad, or is it the wire in the plug or as it leads out to the main harness? The phots attach illustrate the fuse box and the back of the headlight switch still attached to the back of the dash. I can now see the blue wire with the red stripe Don and I thank you for that clarification. Dan
  7. Thank you. Now that we have narrowed it down to the headlight switch, is there a possibility that the problem is actually with the connector plug off the wiring harness to which the switch snaps into? If so, does anyone know which wire off the plug would run the dash lights and which wire I would jump too in order to get a currant to see if the lights turn back on to finally isolate the problem? It is easier to replace the switch and I'm hoping this is the fix, but if not, it is going to be a real pain to repair and diagnose the plug without the proper wire(s) identification. Also, just put the car in a dark garage and found the light for the automatic shifter lights up, so that is good. I hate these small bugs that arise after rebuilding the whole car from the bottom up. Dan
  8. I tried to trouble shoot this for over an hour and I believe I have isolated where the electrical problem may be coming from. After getting all of the instrument lights to work and reinstalling the cluster back into the dash, only the illumination lights of the dash went out. I also heard a faint snap; similar to a short in the lower left corner of the instrument cluster or headlight switch. Things that still light up: dummy warning lamps gas gauge works flashers lamps turn signal lamps high beam warning lamp and each of the illumination bulbs also worked after taking them out of the cluster and testing them on a 9 volt battery. The headlights, emergency flashers and the turn signal lights OUTSIDE of the vehicle also work. I already replaced the circuit board and the voltage regulator prior to this problem and every thing worked earlier before I tried to flip over one LED light to get in on. With various warning lamps and gauges working (beyond the illumination of the dash) I don't think the circuit board or the voltage regulator shorted out, but I may be wrong. So, my question is whether or not the 'headlight switch' may have a problem with a wire burning out. Is there a single wire which illuminates the dash? When the headlight switch is pulled out to either the parking lamp position or the headlights, the dash lights do not come on. Like I said, I tried to isolate this to make it easier for anyone that can help. Thanks again, Dan
  9. Ahh...that explains why it is just hanging and confirms MidLife's thoughts.... The prior owner swapped out the 2 barrel for Carter 4 barrel. We're taking the Carter off and the manifold anyways and replacing them with a Street Avenger and Edelbrock, so I'll coil the wire up and attach it to the firewall. Thanks again.
  10. Just ordered a copy. Hopefully it will help with the alternator light problem. Not sure if it will help with the mysterious plug, but I'll research MidLife's suggestion on an anti-stall circuit. Dan
  11. After chasing a wiring problem with the alternator light, I came to this large bulb type plug on the end of the harness which feeds various sensors. The large bulb type plug was disconnected when we received the vehicle several years ago. Attached is the photograph of the bulb type plug on the left with the main power source plug disconnected at the fire wall on the right. if any one knows what this plug on the left goes to, it is appreciated[/url]. Thanks, Dan https://i.ibb.co/1Rb03mK/DSCN3209.jpg[/img]
  12. Thank you. The 1.7 ratio puts me more at ease. Enjoy....
  13. According to Pedders Corp, the Sport Ryder shocks shown in the attached photograph is the correct size for a 73 Mustang. However, we found the Pedders shock cylinder body to be 1 inch longer than the unknown shock that was already in the car when we picked it up a couple years ago. We do not know if the original shock is correct in the first place. After installing the driver's side Pedders shock, it sat approx. 1 inch below the upper edge of the shock tower while the unknown sat 2 inches on the passenger's side. I do not want to have the Pedders shock bottom out if it is the wrong size which will then result in damage to the shock tower, brace and suspension. Pedders Corp swears that it is the correct one and it does come up on their website when you insert the type of car. Does any one know how high the top of the cylinder body for a correct shock should be (regardless of manufacture) to the top of the shock tower? Thanks https://i.ibb.co/JjM6dnV/DSC-8411.jpg[/img] https://i.ibb.co/W0MzxXT/DSC-8413.jpg[/img] https://i.ibb.co/VWHxM05/DSC-8414.jpg[/img]
  14. After removing the pedal support assembly and the brake pedal to expose the firewall, an inner plastic seal between the firewall and the vacuum booster was found to be disintegrated. See the photos below. Before I have to remove the vacuum booster and enter that mess, can someone tell me what this plastic component is and how to replace it? I don't want to remove the vacuum booster if I don't need to. I also found it was somewhat glued to the back of the rubber boot which covers the rod. https://i.ibb.co/WyLLvDg/IMG-20190517-144307653.jpg[/img]https://i.ibb.co/wgDVVBd/IMG-20190517-144242199.jpg[/img] Thanks
  15. Below is a photo of the linkage to my c4 transmission which was just rebuilt. It went into the shop without a kickdown and came out in the same manner. Is this correct or am I missing the kickdown? Are there certain levers that need to be replaced at the transmission wall? Thanks again, Dan
  16. ebay again. dealer has both brackets https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1972-1973-Other-Ford-Mustang-Mach1-RH-Rear-Inner-Quarter-Panel-Brackets/113688362086?hash=item1a785abc66:g:vhgAAOSw~ShcjQH4
  17. Ebay. link below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1972-1973-Other-Ford-Mustang-Mach1-LH-Rear-Inner-Quarter-Panel-Brackets/123697361347?hash=item1ccceff1c3:g:uAEAAOSwotZcj7px
  18. Thank you to all. This group has been great. Nice to belong.
  19. I am looking into replacing my fuel pump, but there are so many choices that with my luck I'll get something I don't need. The engine is a 302 upgraded with a Holley Ultra Street avenger 570DFM 4v carb and an Eldebrock 21213 (black) intake manifold. we are looking at maybe a bit more power in the old girl, but nothing that I'm screaming around town. At 56 years old, I'll throw my back out.... CJ's offers the following: Edelbrock 110 gph performer RPM Edelbrock 130 gph Victor Holley 80 gph Holley 110 gph Holley 130 gph Hi Flow Thank you for the help, Dan
  20. Ebay has one. you just need to sand it down and repaint. link is below 1971 1972 1973 Ford Mustang Factory A/M Radio Dash Speaker Grille Bracket OEM https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1972-1973-Ford-Mustang-Factory-A-M-Radio-Dash-Speaker-Grille-Bracket-OEM/283421956382?hash=item41fd43d91e:g:eAcAAOSw6lpcj8z8
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