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Everything posted by Parkka

  1. Does anyone know where a damaged tag can be sent to have it duplicated? This one has a rip that someone tried to cover up with a marker and now one of the characters is deformed. Thanks image upload
  2. now that is smart. I did not think of that and was actually worries about how I was going to get them out..... thank you so much. Dan
  3. I am replacing all of the clear stock 194 bulbs in the instrument cluster and down the center console (except for the red warning lamps) with United Pacific 38273 'blue' LED's. My question is whether or not I still need the stock blue diffuser already in the clusters or it is best to remove the blue domes? I would like to have uniformity in the blue hue throughout. Thanks,
  4. Does anyone have any knowledge regarding this tachometer from NPD? It is a separate component which has all of the warning lights and a working tach to replace the systems which were manufactured without one. Basically the ones with a blank face. It is item # 17360-9B at NPD and goes for around $363. Thanks https://i.ibb.co/7tFpWyJ/Tachometer.png[/img]
  5. You are correct. the smaller hose off the canister then goes through the firewall though a small grommet located below the 4 port connection which is also shown in the photo I sent.
  6. I have the same vacuum fitting and it came with the vehicle before any modifications were made. see below
  7. Try NPD. Received mine from them and it worked fine. I would ask if it was Scott Drake manufactured just to be safe. here is the link. https://www.npdlink.com/product/switch-assy-turn-signal-repro/101676?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fpage%3D1%26search_terms%3Dturn%252Bsignal%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1973&year=1973
  8. Thank you to all and I'll be checking the new oil ingredients before I add it. Next step; pressure test (stress test). I'll post those results along with the leak-down also. Enjoy
  9. I used DynaShield. To finish the cut edges after it was installed (which are present in the photo), I used a wood burning wand and ran it around the outer edge. aluminium nitrat
  10. As offered in an earlier thread, below is my oil report which I just received from Blackstone Lab's. Thought the car is a 73 and they list it as being 74, the report also indicates I have high levels of Iron, copper and lead. This car was a new purchase last year and she came out of Virginia, so we were not sure what to expect and/or if a rebuild is required. If anyone wishes to comment on the values, I'm all ears. Blackstone was very easy to work with if anyone is interested. enjoy, Dan
  11. Just sent my sample of oil out to Blackstone. Kind of like a blood test.... they sent me a kit to collect the sample (less the pump for $35 which can be used later) Very easy to do by extracting the sample through the oil dipstick tube. when I get the results back via email, I'll post them. Now off to do a compression test (stress test). Feels like something I do every year...:-/ Dan
  12. Attached to the backside of the driver's shock tower is an electrical resistor. What is it for? I'm not getting a voltage from it.. Dan :huh: https://i.ibb.co/cDpq42D/DSC-4996.jpg[/img]
  13. here is the measurement I Have for a sport mirror mounted to my 73. it appears to be about 8 5/8 on a level plain from the leading edge of the door. Hope this helps. Dan https://i.ibb.co/Qr4FmrQ/Mirror-Measurement.jpg[/img] BallaratcastleHi team. My car came with two new sports mirrors to replace an old chrome one that was on the drivers side only. It has two small holes close together with a square cut out between them. As the sports mirror has holes further apart I'm not sure where to place the mirror. Do I use the rear hole and punch drill the front one further forward or use the front hole drilling one further back .can someone please take a measurement from the front edge of their door to the first screw hole or better still if someone has the correct measurements please. I couldn't find anything online googling it. I also have no idea how to mount the small brass inserts. Cheers Steve
  14. I have been told by many to drill a 1/8" hole at the upper edge of the thermostat before placing it in the housing to alleviate the initial pressure. However, the new one I purchased does not have a hole and I cannot find a thermostat for a 73' 302 anywhere with a pre-drilled hole. There are also no mention of drilling a hole in any of the old repair manuals for the car Is this recommended? If the hole is drilled, what are the consequences? Thanks, :thankyouyellow: Dan https://i.ibb.co/TK5BXKx/IMG-20180901-180559190.jpg[/img]
  15. Not sure if you have the handle already attached to the cable. if so, you should be able to use the handle to pull the backing closer to catch the spin nut. that's the best I can do....
  16. Thank you for the reply. Someone else told me that the bracket can move. The bracket connects to the driver's side rear bolt and cannot be tightened down beyond its specified torque. Dan
  17. thank you, but looking for an original or repro white core without spray paint. enjoy the day, Dan
  18. Not sure if this is too late, but sent my center clock out to a company in Illinois for repair. The cost was about $115 and it came back in perfect factory condition. you can also ask for the clock to be changed to quartz. Took about 3 weeks. They even buffed out the scratches on the lens. Their web link is below. www.clocksandgauges.com Dan
  19. I am interested in purchasing one if not two 'white' interior delux grab handles for a 71-73 Mustang. I have searched everywhere and I cannot find them. All other colors are available. if any one knows of someone who may have these handles in good shape, I would be more than happy to discuss a cost. the picture below is black, but again i'm looking for 'white'. :thankyouyellow: Thank you again, Dan
  20. Thank you for your assistance and the photo. It truly helps me in understanding the next step I need to take.
  21. I have a 302 2v which was upgraded to a 4v by prior owner. We just noticed there is no kickdown rod/cable attached. I recently purchased a Holley 4v to replace the Carter the prior owner attached. we have all of the required Lokar cables. My question is whether or not the outer link to the kickdown was removed or was an inner component taken out where I need to go into the trans? Not my forte, but concerned.
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