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Everything posted by Ponydrvr72

  1. Thanks Chuck, I've been researching the differences in the 70-71 2V,351C (D) blocks, 250,240 HP and the 72-74 177HP square blocks. This would explain the large drop in compression of these blocks. perhaps the 70 had only one valve relief,71,two reliefs. 72-74 dished. If my fathers brain wasn't riddled with heavy metals I could ask him, he made pistons and rings at Sealed Power for 30 years. This would also explain why i was able to get these 302C heads w/4V valves to run in my mustang, although it was a pain to start and there was hardly any bottom end from the scavenging. I cant wait too take
  2. Does anybody know the piston volume increase for the 351C Sealed Power/425P piston? it's a very shallow dish, the Silvolite 1159 is the equivalent piston. Thanks in advance,Scott
  3. I appreciate it guys,I still haven't told the boss of my discovery. I'm afraid to tell her i'm looking at another set of heads, or it might be me with a aussie head up my ass, that is once she pulls my head out of the way first. I'm just getting my interior back together after putting in a 500 watt amp and rewired the car with quality speaker wire. in a couple day i'll remove the heads and start working up the 2v's,they need paint as well. when i get those aussie's off i'll post pic's.
  4. Yeah I here ya Mark, I'll transfer over the roller rockers,keep in the 270H cam w/519/519 lift &270/270 duration. i'll clean and polish up the heads, drop down to a 0.39 gasket,should be around 8.8:1 compression. I have a 72 and a 74 2V head. I wish i had a set of 70 or 71 heads for some reason these heads were putting out 9.5:1 250hp-9.2:1 240hp respectively. I've been studying the subject of these heads and there is evidence of a different cam for these years regardless that most research says that all 2v of the 335 class shared the same cam, I've also run across some evidence that the e
  5. one side sounds great,the other like a washing machine on agitate with exhaust. ive got some pictures in my garage,the head that works has these divits in the exhaust ports,maybe to rough up and slow down the pulse? i'll check em out further when i pull and measure them. maybe i can have the speed shop discount me and put in some 4v windsor valves.
  6. "In essence, we'll be building the equivalent of a 9.2-1 compression ratio Boss 351C with a power output of apprximately 400hp. Virtually any 351C block can be used, since there are no differences in materials or strength. In fact the 2 bolt main cap block (part#-D0AZ-6010-C) is just as good as the 4 bolt main block (part#D1ZZ-6010-D) Even the caps seem to be of equivalent strength. So unless you already have a 4 bolt block, dont spend the extra bucks for this feature". Jack Roush, Hot Rod Magazine,Profecting the 351C...for the street. 1976
  7. Going thru a parts drawer the other day i came across a set of hardened exhaust seats for a 2v cleveland, i had to think a minute of where i got them. thats right they came back with my 302c heads from the shop! I had sent them down along with some seals and springs etc. to be installed on the heads. A few days after i dropped off the heads a tech called me up and said those seats wont fit, I just said well do what you got to do to get a set that does. Ive had nothing but trouble with these heads, a detination,on again off again performance. I've rejetted,advance cam,different dizzy's,fuels,et
  8. Mustangs Unlimited has them. $239.00, there is a set of originals on E-bay,bid starting at $239.00
  9. Rad replace w/ 90degree waterneck,bottom hose anti-crush spring,new thermostat if needed, petcock with anode.
  10. Found one paragraph that makes the book worth every cent. When my mechanic installed the rebuilt long block purchased from Don of OMS he said the valve lift was measured accurately at 0.58. There is not one cam made for Ford listed in Summit Racing's catalog that even comes close to that. So what gives? I was beginning to believe the mechanic must have measured wrong. On page 41 of the book there is mention of a racing cam made by Ford specifically for use in the Cleveland with 0.580 valve lift. Mike, your so right! this book is like a good mystery novel, it answers so
  11. (I feel like such a hypocrite right now, I used gutter sealer on a cowl vent block off plate I made yesterday) I picked up some 3M yesterday,when people ask who does my interior work, I reply, Home Depot!
  12. Your welcome, it makes a great addition to "Ford 351C & Boss 351" Brooklands books,Hot Rod Magazine 'Great American Engines' Series.
  13. Thanks mate,we dont have O'reilly's around here i'm sure advantage,napa,zone has it. cheers
  14. Can anybody think of a substitute for 3m weatherstrip adhesive? dont feel like ordering any right now,or is this something you can find at the zone? was thinking of useing some gasgavich?
  15. No I havent either, but i know a 70-J code Torino was the first factory car to break 12 seconds with out any Mod's,and is listed as the second fastest factory car of the era behind the 427 Cobra.
  16. 72 &1/2 H code, somebody added a bunch of 73 parts,dumbass people!
  17. Hello, yeah you could do all that, those 5.25 wont fit on the driverside kick panel,the E-brake would get hung up on the speaker grill. you can put them in the door though. i just put in a set. in hind sight i could have gone with 4x8's. the door is a better location,more rigid,better sound direction. i would suggest the Focal's with the adjustable tweeters. your going to need a 5 channel amp or 6. 2 channels for the doors,1 channel for the dash if the speakers are bridged,2 channels for the back. that 6th channel would be nice for a sub-woofer. I hope your head deck can handle all that, it s
  18. When you do this install, make sure to get new carrier nuts and washers,the copper washers are part of the seal. when you pull the axles make sure they just dont lay there on the seals or you can damage them causing them to leak. in fact it's a good time to pull them and inspect the splines,bearings and seals. I'm sure jeff will make sure the clutch hub and side gear are lined up before sending the pig. with this lower gear you need to conscider the pinion angle, i would recommend +4 deg leaf sping shims to compensate for ring gear climb. this work is so much easier to do with the axle off the
  19. Those plastic milk crates work well for that. on the 28 to 31 conversion, what you mentioned is the cheap part, the axles on the other hand,,,, you may want to upgrade the yoke for bigger joints. I've got a 78 F-150 parts truck with a 31 spline set up, been thinking about pulling it out and restore it into a 79 F-100 I have with a 28 spline open rear end that sits behind a C-6/429.
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