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Bruce180vf

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About Bruce180vf

  • Rank
    Is that a Mustang?
  • Birthday 03/06/1965

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1972 Mach 1 H code
  • Vehicle Photo

Location

  • Location
    Indiana
  • Region
    Northeast

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

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  1. Yes. I installed a full floor pan. The old floor pan had been patched several times because of window leaks. The brackets were missing when I got the car. The seat was just sitting there not fastened at all. Thanks I will likely make some.
  2. I need to ones for the rear seat where the front of the rear seat connects to. They are the small ones that weld to the floor behind the footwells on each side.
  3. The floor had been replaced when I purchased my 72 Mach. I am looking for new ones or some good used ones. I have not have any luck finding any. I am almost ready to make them from scratch. Does anyone know where I can find some.
  4. I pulled the transmission and remeasured everything. The throwout bearing was actually too close. Enough to cause a problem? probably not. Re-bleed the master cylinder and throw out bearing. Adjusted the clutch master cylinder rod longer and it works great. Thanks for the advice and links. Has anyone needed to re-enforce the firewall from flexing? it seems like it flex's a little. Still a lot better than mechanical linkage.
  5. Thanks for all the advice. I found out that I need to adjust the throw out bearing collar to move the throw out bearing closer to the diaphragm. It is close to the extent of it's travel. Time to pull the transmission and re-adjust it.
  6. Thanks for the responses. The master cylinder has a bleeder screw and so does the throw out bearing in the top hose. I will continue to try and bleed it. The adjustment rod is coming all the way back. I can remove the rod end bolt to the clutch pedal easily. I think it is air in the system for sure.
  7. I have installed a toploader 4 speed with a Tilton 6000 series throwout bearing and a Wilwood 13/16 master cylinder. The problem I am having is I can bleed the system and drive it. It works great for about a half an hour then it will gradually stop releasing the clutch. No amount of pumping the clutch pedal will it go into gear. I have to crank start it at stop lights. I can up shift using the throttle and clutch. Forget it if you have to down shift. It isn't going to happen. Has anyone else ran into this? I have a vacuum bleeder and tried the pumping the pedal and holding it down method also.
  8. My 67 Cougar has brazing welds at all of the panel joints that are factory. At the top of each side of the cowl panel, lower and upper tail light panel were it meets the quarter panel, rear upper panel between the trunk and rear window, also on each door jam at the top and the bottom. All other welds are stop welds. Most of these places you cannot get a spot welder in because of most of the panel shapes and boxes created at the panel joints. My 72 Mustang I have found brazed areas in the exact same places all in the same joints. This has been my experience with the cars I own.
  9. You are correct on the boost. 4.6 Twin turbo 35 psi. The car will weight around 2400lbs. The chassis is certified at 25.2 for a 6 second 1/4 mile. Expecting low 7’s and mid 4’s in the 1/8. All steel body, floor and tubs. Always had a Cleveland in it. Had to buy the Mustang to put my Cleveland in.
  10. Finally got to bring the car home from Tennessee. It cleaned up pretty good. Now time to get the engine running. There are a lot of hacked up wiring. Thought I would include a picture of my 67 Cougar project.
  11. I will look into that. I know the hydraulic kits are between $500 and $700 depending on the brand.
  12. I am just starting on my 72 Mach 1. I am replacing the automatic with a manual transmission in the future. My question is what type of clutch linkage do people prefer? Z-bar is old technology, Cable actuated or hydraulic throw out bearing. Still trying to decide whether to go with a 4 speed toploader or a TKO500 or TKO600. It will have a 500 hp Cleveland in the future. Mainly street driven with drag racing too.
  13. Finally bringing home my 72 Mach 1. The left rear drum brake is locked up and will not release. What disc brake conversions do people recommend? I found several on E-Bay with a master cylinder with the disc/disc proportioning valve. I have also looked at the Wilwood brakes. Not looking for slotted disc rotors or anything. Just a street car with some drag racing at the track. It will have a 500hp Cleveland and a manual transmission in the future.

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Founded:
July 2010

By:
Webfinity Design

From:
Latrobe, PA

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