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Posts posted by Bruce180vf

  1. I pulled the transmission and remeasured everything. The throwout bearing was actually too close. Enough to cause a problem? probably not. Re-bleed the master cylinder and throw out bearing. Adjusted the clutch master cylinder rod longer and it works great. Thanks for the advice and links. Has anyone needed to re-enforce the firewall from flexing? it seems like it flex's a little. Still a lot better than mechanical linkage.

  2. I have installed a toploader 4 speed with a Tilton 6000 series throwout bearing and a Wilwood 13/16 master cylinder. The problem I am having is I can bleed the system and drive it. It works great for about a half an hour then it will gradually stop releasing the clutch. No amount of pumping the clutch pedal will it go into gear. I have to crank start it at stop lights. I can up shift using the throttle and clutch. Forget it if you have to down shift. It isn't going to happen. Has anyone else ran into this? I have a vacuum bleeder and tried the pumping the pedal and holding it down method also. Still the same result.

  3. I see open spot weld holes at the bottom flange, and brazing material real close to one of them, if not 3 of them.  I think that this was a repair and not a factory braze.


    My 67 Cougar has brazing welds at all of the panel joints that are factory. At the top of each side of the cowl panel, lower and upper tail light panel were it meets the quarter panel, rear upper panel between the trunk and rear window, also on each door jam at the top and the bottom. All other welds are stop welds. Most of these places you cannot get a spot welder in because of most of the panel shapes and boxes created at the panel joints. My 72 Mustang I have found brazed areas in the exact same places all in the same joints. This has been my experience with the cars I own.

  4. Good luck on getting the wiring sorted on the Mach 1. You clearly are really serious about going fast with the Cougar. And good for you for not using a LS based engine to do it. I assume a lot of boost is in your future. Chuck


    You are correct on the boost. 4.6 Twin turbo 35 psi. The car will weight around 2400lbs. The chassis is certified at 25.2 for a 6 second 1/4 mile. Expecting low 7’s and mid 4’s in the 1/8. All steel body, floor and tubs. Always had a Cleveland in it. Had to buy the Mustang to put my Cleveland in.

  5. Finally got to bring the car home from Tennessee. It cleaned up pretty good. Now time to get the engine running. There are a lot of hacked up wiring. Thought I would include a picture of my 67 Cougar project.  








  6. I bought a hydro throwout from Summit for like 150, just needs a master cylinder and a little bit of fab on the clutch pedal and you're ready to rock. Just needs the input shaft collar shaved down 0.025".


    I will look into that. I know the hydraulic kits are between $500 and $700 depending on the brand.

  7. I am just starting on my 72 Mach 1. I am replacing the automatic with a manual transmission in the future. My question is what type of clutch linkage do people prefer? Z-bar is old technology, Cable actuated or hydraulic throw out bearing. Still trying to decide whether to go with a 4 speed toploader or a TKO500 or TKO600. It will have a 500 hp Cleveland in the future. Mainly street driven with drag racing too.

  8. Finally bringing home my 72 Mach 1. The left rear drum brake is locked up and will not release. What disc brake conversions do people recommend? I found several on E-Bay with a master cylinder with the disc/disc proportioning valve. I have also looked at the Wilwood brakes. Not looking for slotted disc rotors or anything. Just a street car with some drag racing at the track. It will have a 500hp Cleveland and a manual transmission in the future.


  9. Welcome from Amsterdam, the Netherlands! Can’t believe you find cars like this like that... How long has it been sitting?


    The car has been sitting where it is for about 2 years where it is now. It has been covered up. I have known the car since 2004. Last time it was driven was 2009. It is in a state that sees no salt and very little snow. It is up high on the mountainside. I still have to make the trip to get it.The last time i saw it, it has very little rust. It will need at least quarter panels when it comes time for paint.


    I live in Columbus, In.


    The known facts about the car. It is an factory AC car. Deluxe interior with the wood grain door panel inserts, wood grain dash panel. It has the tach dash and 3 gauge cluster. Full matching Ginger console without the clock. That is about all i know right now. Door tag is missing from a previuos paint job that is peeling and dosent look like a factory original or even a good copy of rear spolier.


    This will be my 3rd  7173 Mustang. I had a 73 coupe and a 71 FB Mach1 with a 351 cleveland 4v, auto, dragpack 3.91 gears in yellow and black. Only owned it for 2 weeks before my ex father in law talked me out of it. Still got to work on it and drive it until he sold it. I have been looking for one since that time. 


    I have a 1967 Mercury cougar I drag raced with a 351 4v for years. It's now getting a full tube chassis 4.6 twin turbo in it. 


    The 72 will get my old drag engine that is a 72 block and 71 4v quench chamber heads. I will am planning on a small roller cam and a T5 5 speed with 3.50 positrac. Magnum 500's and rear louvers, wing and possibly a ram air kit. Other than those upgrades it will be back to factory stock. It will be a driver to enjoy.

  10. I am in the process of purchasing a 1972 Mach 1 H code glow gold Mustang. It has a clutch pedal which to me seems off for an H code car. The door tag is missing. Waiting on the Marti report. It has a 351 W with an auto in it right now. Going to restore it back to almost original. I have a 71 4V Cleveland to go into it. 

    Thank's for the add.


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