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Mike King

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Mike King last won the day on February 25

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About Mike King

  • Birthday 10/05/1962

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 351c 2v fmx convertible
  • Vehicle Photo

Location

  • Location
    Australia
  • Region
    South

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Mike King's Achievements

  1. Converted by an engineer to RHD in Australia. Some 1965 Mustangs were imported over in RHD I believe.
  2. Nice car. Some good options were fitted.
  3. I found my car in January 2000 (summer time here). I had been looking at Mustangs for a while and most had fresh paint or were basket cases. This one was at least honest and RHD converted (Passing trucks on the open road in Australia when driving in the left seat is not much fun-You have to put a lot of car out there to have look.) . She had an older respray, visible small amounts of rust and evidence of having had more hits than Elvis. The front end was bad. The steering had a heap of play. She was shod with bald retreaded tyres. I actually left the car yard and on the way home changed my mind and returned to put a deposit on her. I think I felt sorry for her. All I asked was that they transfer the registration to our state. The salesman told me that the car was for sale due to a divorce settlement. One week later i picked her up and had my first drive. Bad was an understatement. I drove her down to my race sponsor's back shed where we rebuilt the front end and steering box. We put new shockers on (They are the same as some Australian Falcons). The Kelly Tire rep sold me 4 brand new tyres for $50aud each which was an absolute bargain. It probably helped that my race buggy was also shod with Kelly's through my sponsor We then wheel aligned her. Two weeks later I took her for a proper drive. She was a different car. In the 20 years that I have owned her she has never let me down and she has been to a lot of places, including camping at off road race meetings up north.. A panel beater friend of mine cut the rust out and fabricated a patch panel for the filler panel between trunk and roof. That was the only paint that I have had done since I bought the car so the current photos look the same as the day I bought her. I have started stripping her down for body and mechanical repairs. I have discovered that she is a numbers matching car. Dickheads often offer me money for her as apparently they will take it off my hands because "no-one" wants this style of Mustang I could never sell her as I consider her to be family.
  4. This car was owned and driven by a woman in Australia. She cut the roof off and most of the internal structure to badly fit a convertible roof. She then crashed the car into a tree crushing the badly rusted left hand front rail. The floors etc. are all badly rusted and the 6 cylinder motor is seized. The car was deemed to be not worth repairing. It now sits outside a classic car repair shop in South Australia. It apparently took 2 tonnes (2.2 US tons) of soil to fill the car to make a garden.
  5. I have a K&N filter for my ram air. Part No: E-1570
  6. I totally agree. Well packed, accurate description and fast shipping. Hassle free transaction and good service.
  7. Glad you found the leak. It definitely would be worth while re-crimping all of the fittings. R134a consists of smaller molecules than R12 so it will leak easier. If you only repair one crimp the system will probably then start to leak at the next weakest crimp.
  8. There's one for sale in Florida for $379 on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114719230456?epid=22010013545&hash=item1ab5cc89f8%3Ag%3AhOEAAOSwqTVgRrml&fits=Year%3A1971
  9. Your static (a/c off) pressure appears to be low which could make the low side run in a small vacuum when operating. The people who commissioned the a/c should be able to leak test it for you. They can put some more gas in it, test run a/c to check operation, leak test the system, reclaim the refrigerant, repair the leak and/or fault and then recommission the system. Blockages can occur in the condenser, receiver drier, tx valve and the evaporator coil causing the low side to run in a vacuum. Test running the a/c with the correct amount of refrigerant and gauges connected will confirm whether there is a blockage or a leak.
  10. I'm not familiar with that brand of leak detector but refrigerant leak detectors are pretty much on a par with each other. Definitely worth a try if you have enough pressure left. Check all fitting connections for tightness etc. and also check the service valve cores for tightness. To check the compressor front seal turn the compressor center hub slowly by hand with the detector underneath. Gas is heavier than air. dust can collect on the suction hose (Large hose) due to it being cold and wet when the a/c is operating. you could also try pressurizing the system with nitrogen and using soapy bubbles (Big Blu) to find the leak. A hydrogen leak detector(N2H2) is more precise if you can find someone with one. It will only detect hydrogen.
  11. Is the entire system new? Were all the o rings new and lubed prior to assembly? What refrigerant was used? Some hydrocarbon refrigerants leak through modern single barrier wall hose walls. R134a does not do this. You will not always see an oily stain where there is a leak. did you a/c technician put UV dye in the system. For example a compressor front seal may only leak in one spot per revolution making leak detection very difficult. Ask your local a/c technicians if they have nitrogen/hydrogen (N2H2) leak detection abilities. This is the best way to find a leak. If the gas used is R134a the above pressures are very low. Static pressure (off) for R134a at 20C (68F) is about 70PSI and the high side would be approximately 150-175PSI at 1500RPM. The negative low side pressure could also indicate a partial blockage in the system usually between the condenser and the evaporator (IE: Tx valve).
  12. The attached photos show how my trunk torsion bar is set up. I have not had any problems with the lid fitting correctly. Both hinges move freely. On mine it appears that you could install a second bar for the left hand hinge if required. The hole in the left hand hinge is there and the tensioning slots on the right hand side are there.
  13. Our mustangs use a block TX valve (as per your photo) , hence there is no sensing bulb clamped to the outlet of the evaporator. The block valve is internally equalized ensuring accurate flow without sensing bulbs or equalizing tubes. There is no need to cover the valve with the cork tape due to the valve being in the engine bay. You can cover the valve if you wish, as it will not be detrimental to a/c operation but it will attract dust. Please note that the valve will get very cold when the air conditioner is operating correctly. If the valve was inside the firewall it would be covered in cork tape to stop it dripping in the car.
  14. The large port on the tx valve is for the low pressure return fitting on the pipe to the suction port of the compressor. This fitting is usually at the top and will be facing away from the fire wall. The smaller port under it is for the liquid line from the 'out' side of the receiver drier by the condenser in front of the radiator. The other two fittings on the opposite side are for the evaporator pipes poking out through the fire wall. O'rings have to be fitted at each fitting. The flow of the a/c is compressor to condenser to receiver drier through tx valve to evaporator returning through tx valve to compressor.
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