Jump to content

aasukisuki

Members
  • Posts

    101
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mustang Converible

Location

  • Location
    Central Iowa
  • Region
    Central

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Undisclosed

aasukisuki's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Thanks guys, you were 100% right. I've disconnected the rod for now and am going to give the guy who installed the exhaust from the manifolds back a call tomorrow. I think he should be able to modify the bar while it's in getting the pipes connected. Thanks for the help
  2. Sorry, I should have included that. It's a 302 and I believe the C4 transmission. Here's a photo of what I was trying to describe
  3. Hey everyone, I had an exhaust leak on my stock manifolds, so decided to install headers. I installed the patriot clipster headers and now the transmission will not shift out of park. I had to cut off the front of the passenger side exhaust to get the header to fit, but I left the drivers side as it didn't seem to interfere with getting the header installed. After finding out that the car won't move out of park, I noticed that there is some sort of bar attached to a bracket on drivers side firewall that is touching the coupling bracket on the header collector. Is this bar a part of the shifting linkage, and it causing the car to be stuck in park? If so, can I modify / replace / relocate that or am I going to have to remove these headers?
  4. Don -- I can't thank you enough for your help during this. I was able to get everything wired up, and the car is running a lot better. I ended up using the pink/red w/ green wire to trigger a 12v relay with an in-line 20amp, connected to the positive side of the starter solenoid. I then split that to the ignition control module, and the coil. I initially had a resistor that came with the wiring kit in-line to the coil, but the car would die after moving the ignition key from cranking to running. I removed the resistor, and the car will stay running. The car still needs to be timed, and since there are no timing marks on the harmonic balancer, i'll have to figure that out, but i'm a lot closer. I also think there's an exhaust leak between the heads and exhaust manifolds. I only think that because when accelerating, it's quite a bit louder with a sort of "popping" noise. Thanks again for all of the help
  5. quick follow up: I tested the 2 wires on the passenger side manifold. The uncovered spade gives a little north of 12v when the ignition is on (did not test crank). The other has no voltage, so I'm assuming that's the negative.
  6. I'm really sorry that I'm so confused about this. Here's what I have going on: The 4 wires on the driver's side of the manifold are all unhooked. I believe two of those were hooked to the HEI, but of course I'm an idiot and didn't take a photo. I imagine one of those is the output of the pink wire? I'm guessing these are the 2 that were hooked up, given that the are the only female spade connectors The 2 wires attached to the solenoid were there. I unwrapped the spliced wire so I can properly connect it. Someone previously put on a wire nut and a ton of electrical tape.
  7. Do you think it's possible that the resistor has already been bypassed when the HEI was installed? Is there a way I can test with a mutimeter? Should the existing wire running to the s terminal of the solenoid drop to 6v when cranking but be at 12v when the key is only in the run position?
  8. Ok, I'm in the final stretch. I bit the bullet and bought a pre-made wiring harness. I've worked out that I don't need the yellow wire from the coil since I don't have an aftermarket tach. I also understand that the white wire goes to the s side of the solenoid. What I don't know is where the pink wire is (the one that should have an on-line resistor). I'm also not clear if I should disconnect the wires that are already on the s and I terminals of the solenoid On the pink wire, is the resistor in line in the dash, or in the engine bay? I assume I need to splice into this line before the resistor to run to the red wire of the ignition module?
  9. Don, you've been invaluable during this process, and I really appreciate it. Here's an update: Distributor is in, and using your advice, I've figured out where I will mount the coil, and i'm going to order a new mounting bracket for that. However, in my excitement, I failed to realize that I don't have a distributor wire since the previous distributor didn't need one. So I've spent the morning tearing up my garage, hoping I had one from when it was previously points, but no luck. None of the auto part stores near me sell single wires anymore, so I'm probably going to have to bite the bullet and buy all new wires, even though the 8.5mm MSDs on there now are practically brand new. I also need to source the plugs that slide on to the terminals of the coil. I think that's going to be fairly easy to do.
  10. My dudes, I got the parts in from Rock Auto, and have the distributor in and the duraspark control module mounted near the battery, but I have no idea where to mount the coil. I was able to find my original coil bracket, and tried mounting it in the original location on top of the intake on the passenger side, but it will not fit. I have an Edelbrock intake, and when I had the new motor installed, a fuel filter / fuel line was run in that location. I thought I would mount it on the driver side, using holes on the heads, but 1) I don't know if this is a good idea and 2) I have no idea what the thread size is of those holes on GT40 heads. Any recommendations on the best place to mount the coil?
  11. Man, thanks so much for your help. So I need to order the Cardone 842899 Distributor Standard Motor Products LX203 Control Module and I'll need a coil, since mine is long gone. Something like this? STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FD476 finally, is it really worth spending the $125 on the conversion wire harness from NPD? https://www.npdlink.com/product/conversion-harness-dura-spark-ignition-makes-converting-to-the/144692
  12. After reading the threads you linked, and doing some more research, i'm guessing I'll need to either source a duraspark distributor / control module from a junkyard, or order those directly through ford. Seems like there are several coils that are compatible. I'll probably want to replace my wires and plugs too, i'm guessing. Does that all sound right? I'm going to shoot to get one from a pre-EFI foxbody mustang.
  13. So I'm fairly confident that this distributor is dying. I decided to again test spark to each cylinder, and 2 and 4 are not getting spark consistently (I didn't test the other side). 2 would spark 5-6 times when first starting up, and then would no longer spark. 4 would spark for a few seconds, completely stop for a few seconds, and repeat that cycle. Thanks for the help so far.
  14. Ok, great to know. I was only going off of reviews from the CJ Pony Parts site. I'll do some research on the duraspark upgrade. that sounds pretty interesting
  15. I'll finally have some time this weekend to look at this. I've borrowed a timing light, so I should be able to at least make sure the timing is right (gonna need to watch some videos!) I don't have the original distributor any longer, so if I were to go the pertronix II route, I'd need to buy one of those. I'm leaning towards another HEI style from Scott Drake (only $100) or maybe an MSD setup? I really have no clue.
×
×
  • Create New...