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silvergrande

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Everything posted by silvergrande

  1. I'll check the valve clearance on the complete left cylinder head. Thanks I'll check the valve clearance, thanks.
  2. Has anybody ever done the valve clearance check for hyd lifters? My engine was rebuilt by a reputable machine shop. I changed out all my lifters, thinking one was collapsed, # 6 intake. But nope, ticking sound still there, left cylinder head. If the machine shop milled the cylinder heads, that would make the height smaller right, in turn you would have to use non-stock length push-rod? Would I need a pushrod(s) undersized or oversized? According to the 1971 Ford Mustang Car Shop Manual, Volume One, it states on page 21-21-04 "A 0.060 inch shorter or 0.060 longer pushrod are available" Has anyone experienced this problem before? (Engine has flat tappet, hydraulic camshaft, factory specs)
  3. Well, what I did, I took the brand new electronic V/R and painted it ford drk blue.I then place the yellow letters autolite sticker. If you are doing a concours restoration you will have to remove the old cover or get one from the junkyard and put it on the new electronic V/R base.
  4. Nicely done. I love that dark blue paint. That is a really cool air cleaner housing with the dual snorkels.
  5. Wow, looks really shiny! Looks good. I'm having my Mustang, a 71 hardtop fixed up at the body shop, correcting another shops mistakes! The underneath of the hood had paint flaking off of it, no prep. The drivers door and hood will be aligned better also. Wish me luck, they said it should be done by next Wednesday.
  6. Well, first, I had the front wheels and tires spin balanced. I have 4 kyb shocks installed in the car, about 2 years old, the tires are 14 inch BF Goodrich radials ( 6 yrs old, but brand new ), This didn't help the shake. When traveling in town, sometimes the vibration comes on as low as 45 mph. Is thier a possiblity the lower conrol arms ball joints are worn causing the shake and vibration? I have noticed a wear mark on the right disc brake splash shield. It looks like the rub marks lines up with the shape of the rt lower control arm ball joint. The suspension is original except for the outer tie rods and strut rods which were replaced with new parts 2 years ago. Any suggestions??
  7. My car, a 71 hardtop does the same thing. The rear window seals and the window opening design is just not tight enough to keep all the water out. After you wash the car, preferably by hand, not the automated car-wash. Just open the trunk and let it air dry and wipe up the excess water. Ford installed run off troughs on both sides of the trunk for that reason. Also, well Ford hoped we would trade in all our 5 year old stangs, (at that time), and buy a new one. The factory didn't know at the time that people would own and operate these cars 40 years later.
  8. How do you ground the terminal on the coil, or make sure the points are closed? On the continuity check for the neutral safety switch can I get to the terminals on the auto floor shift from inside the car or from the bottom of the car?
  9. UPDATE ON NO RUN ISSUES. I REPLACED THE KEY CYLINDER FIRST. THE ENGINE STARTED RIGHT UP AND CONTINUED TO RUN. i HAVE ALSO REPLACED THE IGNITION SWITCH. -------------------------------------------------->>>>>>>> I want to check the resistance wiring for 9 volts. I'm worried about damaging the coil. When I do the test do I remove the wiring plug from both the batt side of the coil and the dist side of the coil. Or do I leave the dist wiring plug installed and only remove the Batt side wiring plug. Like I said I want to do the resistance wire test but not damage the wiring in the process. I just need some clarification on what to leave connected and disconnected. Also the pos and neg terminals/cables should be kept connected to the battery right? Any help with this test would be greatly appreciated.
  10. You are doing a great job! Where did you learn the welding skills? awesome. Cool body jig you put together. The new old stock radiator support. McLaughlin Ford in New Milford Conn. I know where that dealership is! I grew up in Ridgefield Conn. Keep going withe car, don't give up!
  11. So, can you get to the neutral safety switch from inside the car?
  12. How do you ground the terminal on the coil, or make sure the points are closed? On the continuity check for the neutral safety switch can I get to the terminals on the auto floor shift from inside the car or from the bottom of the car?
  13. I need that done on my 71 mustang coupe. Are you in New Mexico?
  14. Okay, I'll try that tommorow, monday, thanks Hi I'm back finally sorry for the delay. Okay, coil check reads 12 volts instead of 9 at run position. Turned key to start. Tested voltage at post labeled "S" on solenoid no voltage at all. Tested voltage on post "I", constant 12 volts. Did not try jumper wire on neutral safety switch yet. So what do you think is wrong? Please help!
  15. Need help! After installing my engine, either the key cylinder or ignition switch stopped working. I can start the car by turning the key to on/run and putting a scredriver on the fender mounted solenoid. At first I changed the points and condenser set because the car would only turn over and not run. I then replaced the points and condenser. The car ran for a week and then stopped running again. It seems like the points and condenser are getting too much voltage?? AND BURNING OUT THE CONDENSER?? [/u]Need help! After installing my engine, either the key cylinder or ignition switch stopped working, (the key cylinder will not turn to the acc position either),I can start the car by turning the key to on/run and putting a scredriver on the fender mounted solenoid. At first I changed the points and condenser set because the car would only turn over and not run. I then replaced the points and condenser. The car ran for a week and then stopped running again. It seems like the points and condenser are getting too much voltage?? AND BURNING OUT THE CONDENSER??. The engine runs, BUT AS SOON AS i PUT IT IN drive it stalls out. I did have a stereo installed in the car. Maybe the installer used the wrong wires to give the radio a constant 12 volts?? I think maybe the coil is getting 12 volts constantly when it should only get about 9 volts after the intial engine start of 12 volts. Well can anybody help me troubleshoot? I don't want to start replacing parts that don't need to be changed! Thanks everybody.
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