Lazarus

Glad to hear it. Like the posters above, I found those guys good to work with. They were very helpful talking with me and I ultimately decided to go with the 996 bar (the one for our Mustangs that weren’t factory equipped with rear anti-sway bars). I definitely dig the stock replacement, but was worried about fit with my explorer disc conversion as well as really wanting the 3/4” bar (not 7/8”) in the back, as I have only a 1” front bar.

Not to hijack, but does anybody know if something’s up with Addco? I think the website’s been down a few days...

Congratulations on getting a beautiful car. I really do like that color.

I had a torker intake on a very strong 406 small block in a Camaro. It made good high-end power but was not great on the low end. It definitely needed more than a 1500RPM stall converter. Probably twice that. Obviously my cam also was pretty lopey but it was supposed to be a good match for the intake. I can sorta buy that the EFI could have a better feedback loop from the single plane intake but I think the flow of the torker in particular may not be the best single plane. I loved my setup but it was a tad aggressive for the street.

I like Edelbrocks myself and have had good experience with them but I seem to remember that they are sensitive to too much fuel pressure. I had one bogging at higher speeds once and had to add a pressure regulator. I wouldn’t take this as suspect number one, but something to keep in mind if after a pertronix fix or carb rebuild you have the same issue.

I only mentioned ethanol-free because I have heard that water can play real havoc with ethanol gas. I am not an expert on it by any means but I think water gets absorbed by the ethanol and above a certain concentration it leads to separation. The ironic thing is I think water treatment additives are actually methanol. They absorb the water and it gets flushed out in normal use... assuming the concentration is not high enough to separate. So normal gas with a touch of water treatment is what I’d be shooting for to get remaining moisture out of the tank. Bummer about the lack of etha

Sounds like you are a lot quicker on the uptake than I was man. I’d use a gatorade bottle full of good gas before the fuel pump and see if it fires after some priming. If it does, I’d start draining using a pump siphon... probably a bucket or so to look at and confirm bad gas. Once confirmed, I’d try to listen and position the tube at the lowest point in the tank, then drain as much as possible. I might disconnect the fuel lines as well and blow them out if the gas was very dirty. Then I’d change the oil and also the fuel filter, and go fill up as many cans as I have aro

That is a bummer man. Sorry to hear it. Happened to me once in my 67 Camaro, about 20 years ago. It was sputtering a little after the fill-up, but made it a few miles. I was young and had never experienced bad gas; I used the car as a daily driver so had been through plenty of little breakdowns here and there. So the gas never even occurred to me. I changed the HEI ignition module and tweaked a bunch of stuff by the side of the road, then gave up and had it towed. Replaced the distributor before I figured out what was wrong! Anyway, the gas station had insurance for the

Congratulations on seeing it off to paint. Very impressive pace, brother. Thanks for the updates; it has been great to watch.

I have a 235/55/R17 in the back, which is 27.2” in diameter. It is actually kind of big and fits the wheel opening very well. I can’t really imagine two more inches in diameter fitting or looking right, for what it’s worth. I have replaced my rear leaf springs with 4 1/2 leaf, standard-eye springs - which raise the rear about as high most would want - and I am not sure a 29” would work well even in that setup. I like a slight positive rake on a muscle car and, like you, don’t really prefer a negative rake on our models. But the 2” taller diameter tires only add an inch of h

I dig the color!

Modern Driveline has a lot of info on their site. I ended up buying the whole conversion kit and a TKO600 from them but they have everything for T-5s as well. Might be a good idea to get an itemized quote on the whole kit from them for a T-5. Then you can always do a price analysis and figure out which parts you want to buy new vs source from donor cars. Definitely research which T-5 you want to get. I don’t know much about them but there are big differences across the different versions. Going entirely on memory from a friend’s experience, I think you want a later model World Class..

Hello and welcome from NC. I’ve always really liked the light pewter. Great car.

Welcome from NC. That’s a great looking car!

Welcome from NC. That’s a great car; congratulations. Looking forward to seeing how it progresses.