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Lazarus

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Posts posted by Lazarus

  1. @TheDude The directions are definitely pretty vague. The image that came with mine is below:

    2239ACF8-061C-4138-ACC8-4B52EBB0F103.jpeg.2a60777afdf6d96b70934b1704923441.jpeg
     

    I did find a video on youtube that, although not professional, I think is pretty helpful (995 is the same style bar, but for the Cougar):

     

    I took a couple of screenshots for reference:

    A6BD53B3-8F8B-455A-A2C3-902C9A5D6F7E.thumb.jpeg.da2c6ac6078f99c7aea6329fe37c297f.jpeg4B9FA00D-CA13-417E-8598-C276C1E50284.thumb.jpeg.5336debe17913d31b269b9bd24a2ea70.jpeg

     

    In the last screenshot you can see where it goes above the exhaust, assuming a similar exhaust routing.
     

    I hope that helps. 

    • Like 1
  2. No leper from my point of view; I have always had a weakness for C3 vettes, which (like our 71-73 Mustangs) tend to be undervalued in my opinion. 
     

    I tend to be a 68-72 fan, just because I dig the two chrome bumpers, and the inset rear glass. 

  3. Fantastic cars man. You have excellent taste. That 69 is spectacular. 
     

    That said, I just can’t get my head around a Mustang as a female. A vette or something, yeah. A boat, I get it. But my muscle cars have always been dudes in my head.

    • Like 1
  4. 4 hours ago, droptop73 said:

    I went with the 1-1/8" front and a 3/4" rear and love the way the car drives and handles. A good set of shocks and modern alignment settings will add a ton to the overall drivability. Just my opinion and experience. 

    The quarter inch minimum difference is not a hard and fast rule, by any means. It just seemed to be the consensus. I am definitely not sophisticated enough to tell the difference between cars with 1/4” vs 3/8” difference front to back.  

     

    The big thing is you don’t want too big of a difference and you don’t want parity either. In the case of too big of a difference the rear feels wobbly in a turn. In the case of equal bars (or in an extreme case where the rear is stiffer) you can have dangerous steering/traction issues in turns. 

     

    All that said, I think the 3/4” addco rear setup cost me less than $100 on sale on Summit or Jegs. The list price is still only $145 on addco’s website. So if someone is buying a front bar, there is at least one option for the rear that is well worth the additional investment.

    • Like 1
  5. 8 hours ago, Mister 4x4 said:

    Lazarus is lucky he lives all the way over in NC... otherwise, he might wake up one morning, look outside, and see a half-assed restomod light pewter Mach 1 in place of his awesome gray vert. :whistling:

    Thanks for the compliment brother.  Believe me, the grass is always greener in the other dude’s backyard. That gray vert’s body and paint are very nice but the interior needs a lot of work and the 351 2V is a little tired. I have a 4V in the barn waiting to get rebuilt.  I do like the car very much, don’t get me wrong; but you know how they never are done. 
     

    And I still look at least once a week for the right sportsroof... and whatever color it is now, I assure you it will end up in light pewter. 
     

    @Johnny57 Thanks on the color. I really liked the new Mustangs in the Magnetic Metallic so I just went for it. 

    • Like 2
  6. 1 hour ago, Stanglover said:

    I just took a look at this post and decided to add a couple of pics taken last week at our local A&W Cruise Night. It was getting pretty dark when I arrived after attending a "Celebration of Life" for one of our group members who passed away recently.

    In these pics, there is my Mustang, a stunning 67 427 Corvette owned by the owner of the A&W, and an original E Type jag 4.2, not sure what year though and a wagon, but I don't remember the year or make.

    20211028_180235 (2).jpg

    20211028_181950 (2).jpg

    20211028_180257 (2).jpg

    That’s some stiff competition, but yours is the toughest/coolest looking in the bunch. 

    • Thanks 1
  7. I am afraid I am not able to be much more help on the specifics brother. I got mine on Amazon and the brand I have is no longer sold.  I think some web searches will show you several name brands who have various videos touting their strength. It’s an item where I would definitely not buy the cheapest ones, and there are probably also some diminishing returns on the very high end. I bought some in the middle. 
     

    I have 1” adapters all around but that is for 94-04 Bullitts, which I believe have less backspace than the later model Mustang wheels.  The ones I have were just a modern design take on the classic torque-thrust/bullitt look.
     

    If the wheels you are referring to are the ones I think, the mounting surface is almost flush with the street side of the rim (they have a very positive offset is I think how that is described), so you will likely need a thicker adapter than me. Honestly though, it is best to have the rims on hand and do a lot of measuring. The tire you are mounting will obviously make a difference in fitment as well as how low the car is. 

    A word of (admittedly unsolicited) advice though: the wheels with that high of an offset can look a little funky in our cars’ wheel openings. Not so much looking straight at them (like in a web simulator) but as you rotate. It’s sorta hard to describe. So make really sure you like the look before you buy new tires and spacers and all that.  Most of the larger wheels installed on classic muscle still try to have (or at least mimic) a deeper dish than the new mustangs. And please understand, I really love the wheels on the new Mustangs... I am just not sure they wouldn’t look sorta alien on our models.  So before you spend a bunch of money making them fit, just be really sure.  
     

    Sorry I couldn’t be more help. 
     

     

  8. Blue is 71/72

    Black is 73

    Easiest way to remember is that in 73, the bottom of the fender extension basically lines up level with the top of the signal cut-out. The 73 bumper doesn’t curl up to meet the fender as much as the 71/72. 

  9. Well I don’t mean to focus on the negatives, but seems to me the best way to help is to eliminate a few options. I can’t really weigh some of them (like AC vs overdrive for example) without knowing your personal preferences, but I can tell you several items will do practically nothing other than be interesting talking points. 
     

    The ram air setup and the rear discs will give you almost no performance improvements. I have rear discs on my 72 vert and drums on my 73 vert; factory power discs on both in the front. No discernible difference really. The factory drums really are pretty good, and some modern components would make them even better for way less effort and expense, as others state above. Unless you have big open rims and the look of the drum bugs you, save that upgrade for when you have hit the lottery and all the functional upgrades are done. 
     

    I also would love to have a ram air system, just to make those air ducts functional and have the emblem on the hood, but doing a quick search on the forums will show you that folks who install them have absolutely no performance difference. It is a VERY cool talking point, but adds no horses. 

    A few other notes... I am all for the upgraded sway bars, but make sure you do them both. The front should be beefier than rear, but not as much as would be with a 1 1/8” new front and a 50 year old stock 1/2” in rear.  That would make the rear feel unstable in the turns, and you’d probably want the rear bar after the first test drive. Get both, with around a 1/4” difference in thickness between front and rear. 
     

    • Like 2
  10. Just FYI, getting the right rag joint (coupler) was kind of a hassle for me. If I remember correctly (it was a few years ago), my car ended up with a mixed unit made up of pieces from the dorman rebuild kit, a lares unit, and some of my original. None of the options I could find had everything correct. 
     

    I remembered there was a great thread on it, so I did a search for you.   Apologies if you already know the thread (or may even be on it):

     

     

  11. I can get behind the argent stripes for a subtle color scheme, but I’d personally add an argent rocker.  I don’t think the rocker color is always necessary, but I think in white the rocker sans blackout  makes the car a little less sleek and more bulbous. 
     

    I definitely understand folks with a contrary opinion on the rocker blackout (greyout?).  On my yellow car I do sometimes think the car looks sort of narrow with the blackout, and have even considered lowering the blackout line to under the door instead of the body line as a bit of a compromise... but the body line is such a natural place for it. 

  12. I know I am late to this discussion, but since you mentioned the waterproof thing, I thought I’d chime in. I have experimented a little bit with different outside car covers over the years. I live in North Carolina, where the sun can be fairly rough, and I have had more old cars than garage bays. 
     

    I have found that very expensive ones did not hold up much better than more reasonable ones.  After a while under sun and rain, they all sorta give out and turn dusty and brittle. My humble advice is To find one that is breathable and plan to replace it every so often. Make sure its inner layer is easy on the paint and that it is secure enough that wind won’t cause it to flap and rub the paint. I would avoid the door access zippers and stuff unless I was certain that the inside could never scratch the paint. 
     

    I personally have given up on the waterproof idea. Never had one actually be waterproof, and outside no matter what you do, pollen, moisture, and dust get under it. Remember, when you try to block water getting in, you sometimes only succeed in blocking it getting out.   In my experience water always finds a way in, you want it to be able to escape. Whether we are talking condensation, evaporated water from the ground, driving rain from the wind, or a small leak, you don’t want water sitting trapped. 
     

     

    • Like 1
  13. Exhaust manifolds for this cat. 
     

    My opinion is admittedly very subjective.  I like driver cars and headers have caused me too many headaches in the past.  To be fair, I’ve never sprung for really nice ceramic-coated ones (though the ones I used were not cheapo ones either) so they quickly became rusty eyesores that kicked off too much heat and noise. Great on a dyno I guess - and the track of course - but I found they can easily rob the low end if not set up correctly... I just prefer the manifolds as a result. 

    • Like 2
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