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Everything posted by Lazarus

  1. Congratulations on getting a beautiful car. I really do like that color.
  2. I had a torker intake on a very strong 406 small block in a Camaro. It made good high-end power but was not great on the low end. It definitely needed more than a 1500RPM stall converter. Probably twice that. Obviously my cam also was pretty lopey but it was supposed to be a good match for the intake. I can sorta buy that the EFI could have a better feedback loop from the single plane intake but I think the flow of the torker in particular may not be the best single plane. I loved my setup but it was a tad aggressive for the street.
  3. I like Edelbrocks myself and have had good experience with them but I seem to remember that they are sensitive to too much fuel pressure. I had one bogging at higher speeds once and had to add a pressure regulator. I wouldn’t take this as suspect number one, but something to keep in mind if after a pertronix fix or carb rebuild you have the same issue.
  4. I only mentioned ethanol-free because I have heard that water can play real havoc with ethanol gas. I am not an expert on it by any means but I think water gets absorbed by the ethanol and above a certain concentration it leads to separation. The ironic thing is I think water treatment additives are actually methanol. They absorb the water and it gets flushed out in normal use... assuming the concentration is not high enough to separate. So normal gas with a touch of water treatment is what I’d be shooting for to get remaining moisture out of the tank. Bummer about the lack of ethanol free 93 in your area. I suppose you could use an octane booster but it seems kinda silly I guess to go to the trouble to make 93 octane out of 90 and some +3 booster, then to add methanol! Seems like almost full circle, lol. In any case, do watch for carb issues. I do know it is common to have to rebuild a carb after bad gas. It messed up mine for sure, though not really at idle. Fortunately for me the station‘s insurance said just to buy a new one. Good luck with it, and Happy Easter!
  5. Sounds like you are a lot quicker on the uptake than I was man. I’d use a gatorade bottle full of good gas before the fuel pump and see if it fires after some priming. If it does, I’d start draining using a pump siphon... probably a bucket or so to look at and confirm bad gas. Once confirmed, I’d try to listen and position the tube at the lowest point in the tank, then drain as much as possible. I might disconnect the fuel lines as well and blow them out if the gas was very dirty. Then I’d change the oil and also the fuel filter, and go fill up as many cans as I have around the house with ethanol free 93. I’d pour those in the tank along with some water remover/ gas treatment additive, and run it a long while.
  6. That is a bummer man. Sorry to hear it. Happened to me once in my 67 Camaro, about 20 years ago. It was sputtering a little after the fill-up, but made it a few miles. I was young and had never experienced bad gas; I used the car as a daily driver so had been through plenty of little breakdowns here and there. So the gas never even occurred to me. I changed the HEI ignition module and tweaked a bunch of stuff by the side of the road, then gave up and had it towed. Replaced the distributor before I figured out what was wrong! Anyway, the gas station had insurance for the bad gas. The insurance company paid for a new carburetor (the dirty water had screwed up the jets), the tow, the gas, having a shop to drain the tank, and even the wrongly accused parts I had replaced. I was so glad I kept the receipt! You may want to call the station and start a process with them... in my case, the station had a seal to the tank leak after a snow had thawed and water got in the 93 tank. I guess they figured it out just after me. The owner said the other cars that it happened to didn’t get as far. Maybe I had a lot of gas in my tank for it to mix with or maybe a carburetor held up a little longer against the watery gas than fuel injectors.
  7. Congratulations on seeing it off to paint. Very impressive pace, brother. Thanks for the updates; it has been great to watch.
  8. I have a 235/55/R17 in the back, which is 27.2” in diameter. It is actually kind of big and fits the wheel opening very well. I can’t really imagine two more inches in diameter fitting or looking right, for what it’s worth. I have replaced my rear leaf springs with 4 1/2 leaf, standard-eye springs - which raise the rear about as high most would want - and I am not sure a 29” would work well even in that setup. I like a slight positive rake on a muscle car and, like you, don’t really prefer a negative rake on our models. But the 2” taller diameter tires only add an inch of height; I’d personally try changing leaf springs or adding a lift block to raise the rear. I am not really into lowered cars myself, but a lot of guys do like the shorter front coils.
  9. Modern Driveline has a lot of info on their site. I ended up buying the whole conversion kit and a TKO600 from them but they have everything for T-5s as well. Might be a good idea to get an itemized quote on the whole kit from them for a T-5. Then you can always do a price analysis and figure out which parts you want to buy new vs source from donor cars. Definitely research which T-5 you want to get. I don’t know much about them but there are big differences across the different versions. Going entirely on memory from a friend’s experience, I think you want a later model World Class...but I seem to remember that very late models don’t work easily for some reason in our application (gauges maybe?) I remember seeing some very informative articles about it in Mustang Monthly (that’s where I found out about Modern Driveline). Here is one I found when I did a quick search for you. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/drivetrain/1408-simple-five-speed-swap-for-your-1971-1973-mustang/
  10. Hello and welcome from NC. I’ve always really liked the light pewter. Great car.
  11. Welcome from NC. That’s a great looking car!
  12. Welcome from NC. That’s a great car; congratulations. Looking forward to seeing how it progresses.
  13. I for one totally vote for the big block build idea... because I am so selfless and supportive I will happily come take that lame 351C with CC heads off your hands... [sarcasm obviously... I love the Cleveland]
  14. Has anyone confirmed whether Addco is selling the new bar yet? I am eager to order one but their site still shows the old bar I think, unless I am looking at the wrong item... I know it’s been said before but thanks very much, jpaz, for going through the headaches to get them to make these right!
  15. Thanks for the compliment on the car brother! Below is a shot of my two verts together that shows the wheel choices. It was while the 72 was in epoxy primer prior to paint. The tires I have on are Firestone Firehawk AS A few caveats: I have driven muscle cars since college and have a pretty realistic view of their ride quality. The tires you have on now are wider but not too much lower profile in the front; we may have different springs, shocks, or maybe just different sensitivity in our backsides. I’d feel awful if I were to give you the impression that these will solve all your problems... but as I said, I don’t think the wheels feel much different than the original magnums on my 73. the rears would give you almost 3/4 inch more profile, for a total diameter of +1.5” so hopefully that would make a difference. Also, you do get to a point where tread design and tire structure matter also. My brother used to manage a Firestone and he had recommended these tires as a good all around tire without too stiff a ride.
  16. For what it’s worth, I have the late 90s 17” bullitts (as stated above), and they came with a low profile tire stock, as you say. It looked odd on the 72 to me. I replaced with taller profile tires mostly because I wanted to fill out the wheel wells. With the larger profile tires, people have commented they assumed they were 16s. I kinda like that it makes them look more subtle. I didn’t drive it much with the low profile original tires because they were plasticized and I had replaced the suspension (with mild upgrades and stock springs) so the car needed alignment. I got the larger tires when I got the alignment. As a result I can’t speak to how rough the ride was with the 90s stock low-profile. But with the larger tires, I think the 17s look better, they fill up the giant wheel wells, and they feel fine to me. Although I could see why the models in the 90s had adjusted springs and all with the lower profiles (and lower ride heights...and different suspensions), I would be fairly skeptical if you told me you could tell a difference between the feel of the Bullitts with larger profile tires and the period-correct magnums on my 73. FYI, my tire sizes are: 225/50R17 front (25.9" X 8.9") And 235/55R17 back (27.2" X 9.3") A slightly smaller one I considered for the back was the 225/55R17 (26.7" X 8.9") These are for stock-eye, 4 1/2 leafs in the back. I do have wheel adapters for the bullitts to fit.
  17. I think it looks pretty good, and has a pretty subtle rise that looks like it could have been factory. Why not try? If it doesn’t work, you go NASA and no harm. If it works, you have something unique and a source of creative pride.
  18. Looks like you have put a fair amount of work into the mock-up, and I am sure it will look cool when done, but I am wondering if it wouldn’t be easier to start with a NASA hood and fill in the duct areas? Is this much higher? I myself am partial to the NASA hood - swapped my flat hood for it and am very happy - but I loved the 69 cowl induction hood on my 67 Camaro too. I really like the ducts on the NASA hood, but if someone didn’t I would get it... but I think the hood’s modified lines are an improvement as well and that if one wanted a smooth, raised hood, it might be easier and look more like it came that way if you “filled in” the duct cutouts. Or even made side facing ones like a mopar. I kinda like the ones on a Roadrunner/Satellite Sebring Plus...
  19. Saw this one online recently. I think it’s actually kinda cool, but yeah... probably not great for resale. You’d have to find that one person that really loves it as much as you... I personally do like some mods, but generally they are easily reversible ones, and I don’t buy rare VIN cars so that I can make a few subtle upgrades.
  20. I agree. Bought mine from Don and am extremely happy with them. Don seems to curate suppliers very well and tells it like it is with regard to their quality. It definitely can be counter-intuitive how prominent and slightly more complicated parts/assemblies like these are very reasonable and other things like a delete plate or something can be $200. I know it has more to do with scarcity and production run volume than manufacturing complexity but I do remember that the price of these were a happy surprise compared to, say, a deluxe interior door pull or whatever.
  21. I have a 73 with stock power disc setup (disc front/rear drum). On my 72 I had the same, but wanted discs all around so I had a popular conversion done on the back (search on the “Explorer rear disc conversion”). The rear discs function well, were not very expensive, and look nice through my rims... but they don’t really make a massive difference in performance over my 73 to be honest. As muscle cars I have experience with go, the stock power disc/drum setup on ours is actually pretty good. A big step up from my 67 Camaro’s 4 wheel manual drums I can tell you that! If I were to do the 72 again, I’d consider skipping the rear conversion. It just didn’t make a huge difference for me, given that most of the braking comes from the front. I personally have not driven one of our models with a more modern, high-performance setup all around, so I can’t speak to the gains on those. My experience is just comparing the impact of changing just the rear drums, for what it is worth.
  22. Awesome car and you definitely came to the right place. My 72 would not have been possible without all the knowledge offered by the folks on here. Welcome from NC.
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