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Rmach1

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Everything posted by Rmach1

  1. These car’s deserve what each owner wishes to put on it for wheel’s. Not sure why you are choosing to slam the factory look for some car’s but, carry on... I chose to refer to the Marti report as a baseline. I have the magnums and dog dish without trim rings because I like that simple look honoring chevy’s COPO cars. Some of my friends said I should go without caps all together and use just rims. So there are a lot of options. I also have a matte painted black hood, that a friend, who is a purist and res to specialist and has cars published in magazines, said I should have some green on the hood too.... just another opinion. Lastly I have the painted urethane bumper on a shelf because I personally like the chrome bumper. So the bottom line is unless you’re a purist and may sell your car as an original, we all should make it look like we want. So far I’ve had two pretty high offers for my car because the guys just want something different. No plans to sell as it’s my retirement project and I’m still enjoying the process. Oh forgot to tell you all but the paint color is a 1970 Lincoln dark green metallic... I bet a lot of folks will really hate that?! thanks guys for an entertaining thread!!
  2. Here ya go summit racing has them https://static.summitracing.com/email/transactional/images/spacer.gif[/img] https://static.summitracing.com/email/transactional/images/spacer.gif[/img] WVI-62-5712044 Wheel, Ford/Chevy O.E. Style, Steel, Primered, 15 in. x 7 in., 5 x 4.50 in. Bolt Circle, 4.25 in. Backspace, Each (Mfr. #: 62-5712044) https://static.summitracing.com/email/transactional/images/spacer.gif[/img] Ready to Ship Ground https://static.summitracing.com/email/transactional/images/spacer.gif[/img] $90.99 https://static.summitracing.com/email/transactional/images/spacer.gif[/img] 4 https://static.summitracing.com/email/transactional/images/spacer.gif[/img] $363.96 https://static.summitracing.com/email/transactional/images/spacer.gif[/img]
  3. That’s a nice look too! Yes the OEM car hub caps were brushed center and polished rim. I have an original set for mine. I’m tempted to use the trim rings as mine would have had from the factory in 14” but I’m on 15” wheel vintiques painted and can’t seem to find a close enough match. Nice looking car though! Both the butterscotch and your blue model!!
  4. Hi Ray my two cents... I’m using the “dog dish” caps and am looking for the brushed trim rings for my 15” rims. I know I won’t find OEMs so I’m going to leave the “poverty caps” probably as-is. I like the looks of them even though my Mach 1 had the std 14” w/ caps and rings. hope it helps
  5. Ahhhh ok now I see it and I never thought about it that way just the connection to the floor. Thanks Don for your insight!!!
  6. Hey Greg, Curious, how did the extension brackets mount up to the rear holes? Or did you simply shim the rear to account for the space? I just can't envision the brackets doing anything on the rear mounts, since they are perpendicular on the seat platform. Thanks Greg and I have the same question about the rear bolts as they go in differently and I’d see a need for some kind of spacer as Jason mentioned. maybe a pic of how you managed that part? i know a lot of racers and fabricators and no one will mess with that back bolt unless there is an “intimate contact” method like welding an extension and then there’s the carpet to deal with. So any extra info is greatly appreciated!!
  7. Yes that is correct. The outsides are making contact with the inside i wasn’t sure different end links would be a solution but it makes total sense to raise the ends up enough to a better clearance thanks for the input Don!
  8. I installed a new Belltech sway bar 1.125” and it was really tight but after a test drive I see it’s rubbing slightly on both outer edges of the front strut rods Will making a taller spacer sleeve to raise the angle a bit help? Please advise and thanks in advance
  9. Ha ha that’s a good one Geof! Yeah today’s cars have so many adjustments we take it for granted. I’m six feet and really feel for the really tall guys like Eric. I'm going to modify his suggestion to shaving down both stops to equal the position the seat leans to now so that I have plastic stops on both so it doesn’t dig into the seat base or seat back... thanks for your perspective because all the differentiations opinions help me affect a solution!!! Yeah, it seems like no-one considered us "regular sized" people when these cars were designed. Another mod I would do if I were building a non totally correct 71-73 with sport mirrors would be to move them forward by 2" or so. In fact I did consider doing that, but then I'd have to blend paint the doors and the Light Pewter with metallic in it would be tough, so I dropped the idea...... 'til next time I have to repaint the car!! Should have thought about that last time. Totally see that... yeah I know a couple guys who can blend metallics well and I’d still probably hold off on that... so the next project you’ll go all-out. My Mach1 isn’t a totally OEM example intentionally as I had a look in mind when I started so I have that latitude. It’s close but I’m using 1970 Lincoln dark green paint and correct to VIN interior but darker carpet. I’ll post final pics soon I hope.
  10. Ha ha that’s a good one Geof! Yeah today’s cars have so many adjustments we take it for granted. I’m six feet and really feel for the really tall guys like Eric. I'm going to modify his suggestion to shaving down both stops to equal the position the seat leans to now so that I have plastic stops on both so it doesn’t dig into the seat base or seat back... thanks for your perspective because all the differentiations opinions help me affect a solution!!!
  11. Hi i removed the bottom stops and it’s already made a difference!!! Thanks for that great solution!!! Those 5-6 degrees makes a big diff.!!! now for the tracks.. the way it feels now I may not need to do anything there... we’ll see!
  12. This winter, I pulled my interior to better insulate my interior ahed of doing a Class Ait install. Since i had it all out, and needed to insulate the rood/headliner area, i took the dive on the TMI one-piece. I like it, it does hug the roof line and offer added headroom. It also looks good (not stock obviously) but I have no regrets. Definitely have a helper - it was a bitch wrangling that thing into place by myself. The pre-cut holes for the visors and the overhead cabin light were well placed. In fact, I found that the easiest way to align the headliner was to use the screw holes for the light. I also kept my existing sail panels, I did not need to entirely remove the old ones. Just a tip in case you take the plunge. Very nice! Yeah we have to try everything we can to make it comfortable so I’m going to remove those stops tomorrow! So good luck with that headliner..
  13. Ahh you have it bad!! Ha ha .... yeah I think the stops will definitely help sit back a tad!!great suggestion. Thanks!!
  14. Hi all I’m finally done with my 1971 and we’re updating the carb and ignition but now I’m able to drive it, I feel cramped and sitting too upright. Do any of you have a suggestion on this? I can’t find a tilt column and I am willing to fab something... All input is appreciated!!! Thanks in advance
  15. Yeah I saw a diagram of the 2v long version so I’d assume I’d need a short one because I’m running a 4 bbl now and it would suffice thanks for info Geoff!!
  16. Ahhh... I could see that happening mom mostly interested in appearance like Donc mentioned. If I can’t find one then I’ll go without thanks for the input!!
  17. I need a heat riser for my 1971 351c so I can refurb an OEM air breather Is a heat riser really necessary? I’d assume not unless I’m driving in the winter but the car is stored in a heated shop So if you have any input , I’d appreciate it Thanks!
  18. Having a similar issue with mine. New exhaust system and maybe wondering if the pipe clamps need cinched down now that it’s had a few cycles of hot and cold I’ll be interested in what the forum has to offer
  19. Hi all In the last stages of completion and need the handle for the fold down seat latch. It’s a funny shaped thing but I’m assuming it’s specific because I can’t make anything else work So if anyone knows where to locate on I’d appreciate a not You can email me at Thanks
  20. Interesting... mine looks the same so I’m thinking the worse and I’ll have to move the exhaust toward the front... I may just make a bracket to move it toward the wheel instead of messing with the exhaust... it was very hard to make it fit. Bends were off and ends flared ends were too short etc. thanks for the pic post!! The new pic shows the bracket and how it appears to be made incorrectly as it sits too close to the exhaust. The pipe is in the richer place. So I will have to either extend the bracket to its side and drill another hole or I’ll have to cut the top and move it to the left and re-weld it give the. 1/2” clearance needed.
  21. Interesting... mine looks the same so I’m thinking the worse and I’ll have to move the exhaust toward the front... I may just make a bracket to move it toward the wheel instead of messing with the exhaust... it was very hard to make it fit. Bends were off and ends flared ends were too short etc. thanks for the pic post!!
  22. I certainly would rather move that block than the exhaust cross over pipe!! thanks for the input and I’ll check for a correct part.
  23. See image for what was causing the noise always make sure your exhaust vendor lets the car sit and settle on the ground before you drive away niw I have to take it back and have them adjust the exhaust
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