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MustangNJ

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Everything posted by MustangNJ

  1. took my car to the engine builder's shop today. 57 degrees outside, 175 at op temp, warm idle around 800. first thing he did was connect his vacuum gauges. at idle, the motor was making 10lbs of vacuum and the idle was too low. using the vacuum gauges as reference, carb was adjusted to 1050 idle. now prior to the adjustments being made, hitting 1050 would have been impossible because the tach needle jumped around 200rpms. after adjustments to carb, idle is dead nuts 1050 and tach needle is steady. also, idle vacuum is now 16lbs. a 60% increase in vacuum pressure. his only other suggestion is a different electric fan: Flex-a-lite 180. I had told him I had seen 205 on a 75 degree day. he believes the FXL 180 will hold the temp steady at 180 regardless of outside temp. the fan is not expensive, and even though there is a new fan installed now, I will replace it. car ran perfectly on the 20 mile drive home
  2. I don't drive in the rain because I have no hvac, and the OEM wipers are terrible.
  3. is anyone running their ram air scoops without the dummy plates, but without installing the actuated ram air doors? I was thinking about just removing the ram air dummy plates to get more airflow over the engine for cooling. my only concern is debris and water getting in. I don't drive the car in the rain( I don't any hvac).... does someone sell simple screens that replace the dummy plates? thanks
  4. I found these "headlight ring screws" 70-78. maybe they are the headlight retaining ring screws I need? not sure https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1923
  5. Wow! Thank you! That's exactly what I was looking for. This forum is great. is there also a kit that includes the screws needed for the headlamp bezel that holds the lamp bucket in place? I need both the door trim screws above, and the bezel screws
  6. my engine builder thinks 1,000 is too high, and should back off to 750. he also wonders if the timing got changed during engine install. if I can't get it sorted myself tomorrow, my engine guy says to bring it buy and he will set the tune himself. can't argue with that.
  7. so yesterday I had a few spare minutes and figured I'd swap out the headlights for the new LEDs. hahahaha....few extra minutes....I should know better. So after I removed the wood screws holding in the headlight bezels, I started to pull the light bucket forward to reach the H4 plug, no slack in the wiring. so pop the hood to take a look......no H4 plugs at all. current lights are spliced into the wiring harness with electrical tape. project for another day. I'll prob replace the entire headlight harness. it doesn't make sense to install new stuff connected to crap.
  8. so its a new custom built crate motor. I have about 200 miles on it. its been bench tested, but now its real life in a car being driven around in different conditions. lots of new parts settling in, so I assume it needs to be tuned as it gets some miles on it. I've never heard of a new motor that worked out of the box without needing any tuning in the first 500 miles, etc. I don't actually know the octane specs for the build, I can find out tomorrow. as for the build and the cam grind, I posted a few pics here:
  9. I have about 200 miles on the new 418 crate motor now. I've only been able to use it 3 days since the work was done due to weather. early last week I adjusted the idle to get warm idle at about 1,000. that is working fine now. today for the first time, I drove about 20 miles, parked for 30 mins, and had a really hard time starting the car, its cranks hard, but I really had to feather the gas on/off to get it start. it runs great after its started. now however, it diesels or "runs on" when the key is turned off for a second or 2. this did not happen last week. I assume that since everything is new, a series of adjustments is required to get things just right. anybody have ideas about the hard start when warm, and run-on issue? thanks
  10. got it adjusted so at temp its idling nicely at 1000. man this car is fun after all the winter mods. next up are easy things: headlights and seats. next winter I hope to get into the dash and electrical as I am planning to add A/C. right now I have no heat, a/c or evening the fan working. the wipers work !
  11. thanks guys. I noted in the engine stand video my builder sent me, the idle is around 1000 at temp. somewhere between the engine build and install/running in car, the warm idle is closer to 500. I need to get that sorted. its a quickfuel carb that I don't know much about, so I will call the builder. btw, this engine is rated for 525hp, with a custom cam to deliver all the power below 5000, its a blast to drive with a 4sp.
  12. So I just got back from my first 1hr drive. the car is so much better. after 1hr of driving, engine temp is 180, at stop lights, the idle is about 500. since its a stroker, at 500rpm it idles like a drag car, like its about to stall. of course it also shakes the whole car at 500rpm. when the car is not up to temp, such a low idle is actually causing the car to stall, so every stop requires 3 feet: clutch, gas, brake. although its cool in a way, I feel like the idle should be closer to 1,000. anybody have any thoughts on that?
  13. I don't know if they will fit, but I can tell you what does fit: 54-Series Magnum 500 Wheel Size: 15'' x 10'' Bolt Circle: 5 x 4-1/2" Rear Spacing: 5'' 6.25" backspace vs 5" backspace is a big difference
  14. I just found this kit. reclining, velour, mild bolster. seems pretty inexpensive and the claim is that they bolt in. one review says the seat is 1" higher than stock, but that is prob going to be true for every new seat. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-27-0015/kitcombocontents/year/1973/make/ford/model/mustang?prefilter=1
  15. I've decided I want to swap my front buckets to something more like a pro-touring type seat. by that I mean: something with more support, but not a race seat with bolsters so big you have to climb over them. lumbar support would be nice. I want a material that is some sort of fabric, or at least breathable. I also recently installed new 3-point seatbelts that I want to keep I really don't like my fixed position vinyl OEM seats, so the new seats must have some recline adjustments. I don't like sitting bolt upright and getting all sweaty. I'm trying to stay under $500/seat. I can find lots of great options online, but I have no idea how to tell what fits. I don't trust the seller filters where you select year, make, model.....in my experience, anything can fit in anything if you modify it enough. I want bolt-in seat rails and seats. I am leaning towards stuff like this: https://www.carid.com/1973-ford-mustang-seats/nrg-innovations-rsc-400-frp-bucket-seat-735731596.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|Fastback anybody have success with a seat swap like this? thanks
  16. 295s yup. the motor has less than 100 miles on it, so I have not pushed it. burnouts will be coming soon. its not washed, but you can see how the stance is very different now. it drives to much better now
  17. WOW! just drove the Mach 1 for the first time with the new motor, suspension changes, headers etc. this car is fast !!! I only used 30% throttle at red lights and its blowing away new cars. the performance, ride quality and sound are a world better than last fall. the car is now truly exciting....I guess thats what you get with 550hp, 3.73 posi and a 4sp.
  18. hey, any visibility that our 71-73 cars get in mainstream media is great .
  19. has a 71-73 Mustang ever won anything when competing against 69-70 Mustangs, Camaros, Mopar, etc, or the "holy grail" tri-5 chevy's or any year corvette?
  20. I've been rebuilding my 73 for the past 4 months. its nearly done. Its sent out right now for alignment. hopefully I have it by Wednesday and can take some pics. my recent pics are all "build" pics, not really car show pics
  21. at the end of this weeks episode of Driven on Discovery, they showed a preview for next week. Joey L. has commissioned a rest-mod Mach 1. from the commercial, it appeared to be a 71-73, but they only flashed the front end and I'm not entirely sure. would be cool if it is. everyone does high dollar 69-70 builds.
  22. thanks guys. I ordered the ones off of Ebay. I can use the $250 savings to add shelby style round aux lights now....as soon as I can figure out how to mount them to the grill.
  23. has anyone installed a set of replacement headlights like this? or have a batter recommendation. I want to replace the entire light bucket, not the bulb https://www.cjponyparts.com/led-headlight-7-high-powered-with-led-light-bar-pair-1964-1968-1970-1973/p/HLA203/?year=1965&gclid=CjwKCAjw7LX0BRBiEiwA__gNw7Jh9erxrFNfPzQMYv-3nzFQR7YM6Aq5RrH5onhIChB7CqKOBzmGixoCADMQAvD_BwE also, if you follow that link to the pics, there is a standard H4 connector, and a separate single prong plug. what is that single plug for? brights dimmer switch? thanks
  24. yeah, I figure my Mex Mach 1 is worth at least $100k because its such low production. we all know that rarity = valuable....just look at the price of a rust-free AMC Eagle !
  25. Don’t know a lot about the difference between US and Mexican built cars but i believe 351 W and Dana rear axle are a few of them. I have not found any definitive source of info on Mexican built mustangs from 71-73. the info out there is either anecdotal or first hand experience. you cannot get a Marti report on foreign VIN's. I have a 73 Mex Mach 1. I happen to heave the original paperwork including dealer invoice etc. I have not found a build sheet, but who knows, might be under the seat or something. mine is a 351W 4v 4spd toploader. I can tell you that it is a dana rear. I also know that the shift linkages are not the same as a US 73 Mach 1, because I bought the US linkages and they were the wrong length. according to folklore, in 73, there were only 300 Mex Mach 1's built , so info is scarce. in fact the the seller I purchased from didn't think it was a Mach 1 because the VIN is different. I bought it thinking it was a Sportsroof. was a pleasant surprise when found it to be a real Mach 1
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