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MustangNJ

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Everything posted by MustangNJ

  1. I have a 73 Mex Mach 1. I've never seen another one for sale. I stumbled across this 72 Mex Shelby today. I have no interest in the car, I just thought it was interesting because its the only Mex 71-73 I have ever seen for sale https://binghamton.craigslist.org/cto/d/binghamton-1972-ford-mustang-gt-351/7095863104.html
  2. stance is fixed. you can't see the slapper bars in the pics but they are on.
  3. I think I will raise the rear with shackles and add slappers while I'm at it. the front will get drop spindles if I can find them. I think thats better than trying to just use lowering springs.
  4. here's a pic of the stance right now. the back needs to come up and the front needs to come down. I don't like the pounce/squat look. does anyone have any tips on raising the rear and dropping the nose? new leafs in the back and lower springs in front? thanks
  5. so last summer I spent a lot of time thinking about what I was going to do for new power in the car. rebuild the 351, swap the 306 from my Bronco, swap the 545 from my 78 F150, etc. I made the decision to buy a new 418 crate motor from Engine Factory. its 525hp with a custom cam that will deliver most of the power/torque between 2000 - 3500rpm, with redline of 5800. so yes, the number matching 351w is gone. the car is low production Mex Mach 1, but i decided to rest-mod because that is what I wanted to drive. last summer I did: suspension, brakes, transmission, steering and a 3.73 Auburn posi This winter I am now just finishing: crate motor, headers, exhaust, rear wheels, clutch, radiator I went shorty headers because the z-bar was interfering with the long tubes and I didn't want to convert to hydraulic clutch. getting close on finishing. the last thing will be stance. its sitting in a "pounce" stance right now, in part because the new motor weighs less than the old one. I am going to raise the rear up, and bring the nose down. maybe new leafs in back, lowering springs in front, I don't know yet but would like to hear how others have done this. I don't really think blocks in the back is a good idea as the torque from the new motor will already be causing wrap, and i don't have track bars yet video of engine running on stand: motor on stand running
  6. I would never run an accessory load directly off the fuse block. I use the keyed-fuse to connect to a relay. almost no amp draw.
  7. thats the post I used. because I was adding a number of accessories, I added a 3 circuit Aux fuse panel, using the keyed-on fuse ( + to battery). adding accessories to these old style panels is something I don't like, so I add the extra fuse box
  8. problem solved. I added a positive jumper between the 2-way and 3-way switch. I'll just leave the 3-way in the driving lights position, and the 2-way toggle turns on/off. wiring a switch to a switch is prob not how a pro would do it, but it works
  9. so this is not the way I planned it. the lights have a 3-way switch, the panel I want to use has a series of 2 way switches. my test bed here is my Bronco, so I can get it figured out before i do something similar in the mustang. the lights are working properly off the small oval 3-way, but I cannot figure out how to connect to the 2-way rocker. on the oval 3-way, the red wire goes to a relay that goes to the lights and the battery. the 2-way rocker panel has power from the battery, and each rocker has 1 terminal for power/accessory connection. i've got myself confused on how to connect the 3-way to a 2-way rocker. I don't need a 3-way, as I don't care about the 2nd position marker lights. I don't feel like experimenting because I've shorted out harnesses in the past. anyone have any ideas?
  10. I'm currently following an auction for a 96 Bronco with a 396 ford racing motor and super charger making 550hp/torque, with less than 20k on the motor/blower. current bid is $5200. this would be an awesome motor tor transplant into my Mach 1.
  11. my god, if that pic shows 20 years of dust, then my 73 has nearly 200 years of dust on it. amazing !
  12. so here's a sort of random wiring question: I bought some Hella value fit 500 LED driving lights, and they came with a harness. The harness includes a 3 way rocker switch. I didn't realize that the lights had a 2 position "On", 1 for marker/accent light, and 1 for full driving lights. I also didn't realize that the kit came with a funny little oval switch that would be a bi*** to mount flush. anyway, I already have an aux switch panel in the car, that has a number of vacant 2-way rocker switches. in looking at the 3-way hella switch, it would be no trouble to route each of the 2 on positions for the lights to 2 diff 2-way rocker switches instead of using the hella 3-way switch. my question is this: by routing to 2, 2-way switches, it will be possible for me to have the marker/accent feature On at the same time as the driving light feature. on the hella single switch you had to choose. am I going to cause an electrical issue if I use 2 switches and sometimes have the marker lights AND the driving lights on at the same time, which is a condition not possible using the hella 3-way? I'm not sure why it would be a problem, but I can't find any Hella support to ask them
  13. I read that article about the junkyard 351 with top end build. the kit costs around $3800. I figure I also need: carb, radiator, headers/exhaust and miscellanous hoses, wires, fittings, prob $5k in parts, $2500 in labor.
  14. my latest thinking is that I will take the 306 stroker from my Bronco and put it in the Mach 1. its a new EFI crate with 1500 miles. great motor but I made a mistake putting it in the Bronco. it makes 380hp/420 torque. not exactly the power curve I wanted in the mustang, but I think I'd rather spend money putting a big block in the Bronco, than spending $10k on a motor for the mustang.
  15. has anyone installed an Edelbrock performer RPM top-end kit? I see advertised hp numbers of 430 and 450 torque, but I can't find any details on what the power curve looks like. I imagine the torque tops out at around 4,500 rpm, but I can't find any specs. btw, my crazy plan to put my 545 stroker big block in the mustang is not going to happen. I sold the truck yesterday :(
  16. I was hoping to get the motor in the car and done for $10k. looks like I will be a bit over that with a 408 crate. I think the 545 stroker in my 78 Ranger was about $10k to get into the truck, but I used the short block I had and save a few bucks. I need to keep looking at power curves and see what the options are with a 351w block
  17. yikes! that's at least a $9k motor! I just checked out their website
  18. thats exactly the type of curve I am looking for. 500 lbs at 3k rpm is great.
  19. that looks pretty good. what kind of power/torque are you making between 2500-3500 rpm? thanks
  20. yeah, I have no problem with the feel of the clutch pedal, I just need the spring to release all the way.
  21. its something that was not a problem 3 months ago, but is a problem about 50% of the time now, so I imagine it will continue to get worse. thanks for the info.
  22. If I am going to go with a new top-end, what are the 3-4 things I should check the engine for first, to make sure the engine is good enough for the new top end. Compression check? check bore to see if its ever been rebuilt? what else? thanks
  23. after fully releasing the clutch pedal, the transmission is properly in gear, but the pedal is not always fully releasing all the way. if I do nothing, a moment later it will spring back and make a spring-pop sound, basically just the sound of force created by the spring against the travel stop. sometimes after releasing the clutch pedal, I give the pedal a little sideways tap to get it to release. anyone ever have this issue? maybe something just needs to be lubricated better? thanks
  24. a crate might be the best thing. I never intend to restore my car, so numbers matching is probably not something I need to be concerned with. I am building a driver that does what I want. it will always look a bit dusty, but it will rip and not break. getting a crate engine opens up a whole new bag of questions: do I stick with a small block so I can keep my existing trans? if so, do I get a 427? does a big block make more sense, but prob my current trans won't work. I want low end torque and hp, so it seems that I need displacement. like I have mentioned, I don't want to have to have the rpms screaming all the time to build power at 6500. i want good power at 2,000 - 4,000 rpms. what I do know is that I'm not going to put a $10,000 motor in a $15k car. that will obv limit crate choices
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