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MustangNJ

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Everything posted by MustangNJ

  1. the thing is, I am struggling with the idea of ditching the original motor in this 1/600 Mexican Mach 1. I know that rare does not mean valuable, but the car is currently numbers matching. I believe that the motor may have been rebuilt in 1981, and may not be a great block to invest in now. if that is the case, a crate motor is probably the way to go. or if I go with a top end now, and find I can't rebuild later, I can get a 427 short block. my biggest thing is I don't want to be making all my power at 6500 rpm. I have a 306 in my Bronco that is the wrong engine for the truck. it makes 400hp at 6,000rpm. but who the heck drives a 1990 Bronco at 6,000 rpm? I don't want to make another mistake on the Mach 1. the 545 in my 78 Ranger was a great decision. the 306 in my Bronco was not a good choice.
  2. I think I may approach this in 2 parts. Part 1 Top end: Heads, Intake, Cam, carb, headers. if that does not get me where i want to be, then Part 2: bore and stroke. I think by making the right choices in Part 1, everything can be used if I go ahead with part 2. first I need to make sure the block is worth investing in.
  3. I don't have a shop or even a garage where I can do this kind of work myself. finding a shop that you can trust is exceptionally difficult these days.
  4. so far the 351w 4v in my Mexican Mach 1 is running well. it took some doing, but its not reliable and sounds good. which means its now time to think about HP and torque. I can't really guess at what HP this tired old engine is making right now, but maybe 190hp? I don't know. what I do know is that I want a bunch more low end hp and torque. by low end, I want real gains at 2500-4000 rpm. I'm really not interested in power bands that only come on at 6500 rpm, etc. the 545 stroker in my 78 Ranger has low end torque and hp that I like, but that of course is a different block. at first I was thinking I could get away with a top-end "kit" for the 351: heads, intake, cam, headers, but I don't think that will give me what I want on the low end. So now I'm thinking that I need to rebuild the motor to a 427 to get what I want. has anyone done a build on a 351 to a 427? how were the results ? I figure I need 400hp+ below 4000 rpm to get what I want. any advice? my intended use is stop light to stop light, maybe a track day at the strip once/twice per year. my car sounds great, but has far more bark than bite right now, and thats with the fresh 3.73 gear. I don't know the health of the current motor, compression could be off, etc thanks
  5. no headers, just the original manifold. engine and exhaust is on the list for winter projects.
  6. I added a bottle of Lucas zinc additive to the oil while I was topping it off. the engine clicking sound is now gone completely. sounds great.
  7. thanks for pointing those things out. I'm dealing with a barn find, so many things getting replaced.
  8. awesome thanks. I was doing some googling about adding oil to 351w and I've discovered I'm not the only one who didn't recognize the filler location.... thanks for the quick help
  9. ok, I have to maintain some sort of dignity here with such a basic question, but I have not had to add motor oil since I owned the car, and this is my first 351w. its very different than my 545 and 306 in other cars. i'm not familiar with oil caps on top of the valve covers, but I see nothing else that looks like an oil cap. assuming it is, it comes off easily and is only a loose friction fit using gaskets. and what the heck is the bung coming off the side? sorry for such a basic question, its embarrassing
  10. my biggest surprise? I bought a 73 car advertised as a "sportsroof" because the VIN did not "match" that of a Mach 1. the seller had a stack of documents that I did not look at until after I bought the car and had it shipped home. the docs included the original dealer invoice from Mexico City, and I had just purchased one of the 600 Mexican Mach 1's ever made( they have unique VINs that required serious research to decode). but, this is one of those cases where "extremely rare" probably does not impact value.
  11. I don't think the movie had budget to wreck a 69-70....
  12. this is typical of what I see around here all the time: https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/d/braintree-1973-mustang-convertable/6984915963.html decent looking, around 12k. I don't think its a Mach 1, but I didn't check very hard
  13. my mom wanted a convertible a few years ago, I got her an A4 vert....
  14. wow. $30k for a 71-73 351 is a ton of money. its a price we would all love to see for these cars, but is not a price I believe to reflect the general market.
  15. the fit was off by more than some time in the sun....maybe the Arizona sun would work, but not the NJ sun
  16. in fact I printed pics from a thread on this site that showed the correct orientation. I had 3 guys, myself + 2 mechanics trying to fit the piece in place. after getting 1 side lined up, it was short a couple of inches on the other side. I can see however that heating it up might solve the problem. the issue seems to be the angle of the returns on both ends
  17. in this pic I compare the spoiler sold by CJ Pony parts( the one I bought) for 71-73 mustangs to the part sold by Scott Drake. they are obviously quite a bit different
  18. i verified the order, but there are no markings on the part at all. its just stamped plastic
  19. I ordered a front spoiler from CJ Pony parts. I finally got some extra hands and was going to install it today. after trying to hold it in place based on pictures I've found on this site, the spoiler is just not wide enough to fit into place. if I fit 1 side, its not even close on the other. the new spoiler measures 64.25" from the outside edges. i measured by laying it flat on the ground. does anyone know if this is right? because either the part os too small, or my car got wider. this is the part I bought https://www.cjponyparts.com/front-spoiler-abs-plastic-black-1971-1973/p/FS5B/
  20. i'm planning to upgrade the rear wheels/tires to 15 X10 wheels with 295/50R/15 tires. I was just looking at my car, it looks tight. I know others have fit these size wheels/tires. the top of my wheel well is 26.5" off the ground. does that sound right? random 4 number generator
  21. new 140amp alternator installed. upgraded points to electronic ignition. flamethrower coil, new plugs and wires. car seems happy about it
  22. drove the car today with replacement u-joints and a rebuilt diff. man this car is dead smooth. its amazing really. I have no driveline vibration at all now. zero. took it up to 70mph today. I was impressed. my louvres are still rattling like little bastards over 60mph, but at least I now know its not because of a rear end vibration. its the louvres themselves. not sure what I will do about it. no I am not going to remove them.
  23. drove the car today for the first time with the 3.73. I won't call it fast, but it sure is faster. I'm glad I went with the 3.73 and not the 3.50. I actually used 4th gear today at around 65mph. with the old gearing I didn't need 4th.
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