mustang_maria73

Thanks Mike & Hemikiller. This helps a lot. Any opinion on one manufacturer over another for the parts? Dorman, ACI, Cardone? What's the best way to block the window up?

Let me start with I'm a beginner and have minimal knowledge but am willing to try. My driver's side front power window stopped working when it was down. I took the panel off so I could see what was going on and to lift my window back into the up position (had a little furry friend want to take up residence with the window down). I disconnected the power and pulled the glass back up. Connected it again to test it and I can hear the motor try to work. Looking down through the door when I do this, I can see the gear isn't moving. Do I need a new motor or just a gear? I was trying to get the motor out to look at it closer but couldn't figure out to do it. I looked all over the door and it appears welded or I don't know the trick to get at the motor. HOW in the world do I get the the motor out? Please provide specific details if you can. I also see a date on the current motor (4/15/02) so it appears that the motor has been replaced once at least. Also, when I took the panel off and was looking at the window electrical connections there is a red connector not plugged into anything. I'm guessing it should be. See pics. What does it go to? Should I be concerned? Thoughts? I would greatly appreciate any help with this!

Don, Thanks, great idea! Never would have thought of cutting my own (novice here). I'll give it a shot. Is there a special type of steel I should use? Any other tips on doing this? Could I go thinner or do I need the thickness for durability? Not sure I have that much height space left to the hood when everything is stacked. Already exchanged carb studs for taller ones.

Hello all, I bought the square bore Summit Racing® M2008 Series Carburetor SUM-M08750VS. The Trans Dapt 2199 adapter doesn't work and it's really thick (15/16"). I haven't been able to find one that covers the emission groove fully. See pic below with 2199 on top of intake. A friend and his buddy suggested filling the groove with JB Weld. I'm not sure I'm comfortable with this because I'm not very knowledgeable. I see it being a problem if I want to swap back to my original carb. Your thoughts? I guess there aren't any easy fixes for this. 😒

If I have to go with an adapter, is there one better than another? Do you know what height/thickness I should get? Thanks for the help!!

Do you know if it's easy to get a 70-71 iron 4V intake? Is this doable for a novice like me? :-/

That's exactly what I needed to know. I wasn't sure if the 750 would be too much. I do like the pricing on the Summit carbs (and that you recommend them)! Thanks again for your help!

Thanks, I'll look at those. I don't have Ram air. Is there a particular one you would recommend to get max performance/power without additional mods? Here's the Marti with my car specs if that helps. .

My car is a 73 convertible with a 351C 4BBL (Q code) and 4 speed manual transmission. Looking for recommendations to replace the 4300D carb (original and works, which I plan to keep in case I ever decide to show it). FYI, I'm a newbie to car repair/restoration so my knowledge is minimal. The car is a survivor car and I want to keep it as original as possible but with a more reliable carb and best performance without mods. Last year Jeff73Mach1 recommended to "put the adapter on it and slap a Holley 700 Double pumper" which sounds good to me. Any other recommendations before I purchase? If you need any other specifics to make suggestions, let me know.

Thanks for the advice. I'll start looking at these possibilities tomorrow. Need to find my fire extinguisher first!! :D My car has a 351C 4 BBL engine (Q code) with a 4 speed manual transmission, Motorcraft D3ZF-LA carburetor. BTW, I was not having this problem before the carb rebuild. Replaced the base plate because the carb was dropped and the throttle shaft got bent and plate cracked. It was replaced with same model carb base plate. The carb rebuild kit was a Standard Hygrade #585A. Also replaced mounting gasket (FelPro/#60179).

FYI, I am a true novice in the mechanical arena. My friend with the mechanical expertise helped me replace spark plugs and wires then we rebuilt the carburetor. Didn't do anything but adjust idle after reinstalling carb. Car started fine and idled although we didn't run it long. Next day, I took the car about 4 miles to get gas, engine stuttered on drive. Seemed to run better at higher speeds. Started fine when leaving station then died at light. I finally got it restarted as light turned green. Managed to get it back home but it wanted to die at low speed/idle. My friend suggested checking for vacuum leak. He's in the midst of a job search so I don't want to keep bothering him. I checked hoses with my eyes and hands, seem tight. Of note, a number of the hoses are plugged/capped off (that's the way she came to me). I saw on line to check for leaks by spraying carb cleaner while running. How big of a concern is fire when doing this? Makes me a little leery to try it. Also, looking at the carb, it appears wet at the bowl cover gasket. Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks for the advice. Here's my Marti. No stripes originally.

Thanks to all for the great suggestions and offers of parts for my carb situation! I got incredibly lucky with a local craigslist find for the complete carb (needs a rebuild) at a reasonable price. Turns out it this may be a good connection for additional parts too fi I need them. :D Hope to have the car running by the weekend!

Any luck finding the carb? Sorry if I seem impatient, just eager to get my car back up and running. :D No problem, I have looked everywhere without success. I am afraid it may have gone with an engine block and some other stuff I sold a year and a half ago. BTW-the auto base plate should work fine. I appreciate the effort!! Thanks again.

Any luck finding the carb? Sorry if I seem impatient, just eager to get my car back up and running. :D