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MustangSally44

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Everything posted by MustangSally44

  1. We tore the interior out of ours awhile ago to get some welding done. While everything was removed I painted all the metal with 2 coats of enamle useing a brush. Was much nicer crawling around on a shiny painted surface as aposed to the rust and tar.also adds an extra layer of protection if theres wate leaks.A wire cup wheel on the drill did a great job cleaning befor paint
  2. Just thought Id throw in my 2 cents... I worked at an auto plant for 20 years and the glue we used was butal rubber . and construction adhesive. also its been my experience with phospuric acid that it coverts iron oxide or rust to phospuric oxide but only whats penatrated, so you could actualy have red rust under the black oxide.If it were me, I would buy another shell that you could blast dip weld prime and paint, then remove parts from your car to install on the restored shell. Also I think zinc primer is the way to go. Been on my truck for 20 years. Again just my 2 cents.
  3. I know this is an old post but I researched it when I was looking for a solution and thought someone else might be researching and benifit from my experience.First off, nothing would hold the mirror on my wifes 73. I even tried hot glue wich was the only thing that worked on my old AMC. We gave up trying when the mirror fell off on the way home from the glass shop. So were up at the lake and shes complaining about the mirror so I thought Id give it one more try. I scraped the glass with a razor blade and didnt have any alcohal to clean with but Smirnoff's did the trick. I sanded the metal button and found it wasnt flat. Looked like factory finish but wasnt flat. Filed the button till I was happy with it then put some deep crosshatch file marks in it to give the glue something to hold to. I used a very thin layer of Premium PL construction adheasive on the button and held it on the windshield with Duct tape.. The next weekend at the lake I peeled the duct tape off and scraped the residue off with a razor. Vodka wouldnt touch the gooey stuff but Purell did a nice job and now the windshield is germ free. When I went to put the mirror on I noticed the 2 ball sockets on the back were almost siezed solid.How come the guy at the glass shop didnt notice this. So every time you adjusted the mirror you were using leverage to pull the mirror off the glass. Took me lots of dolphiin oil { all porpoise ) and a whole beer to get it freed up. Been 2 weeks now and holding. Will update if it falls off again.
  4. Thanks Tony. No buddy at my house smart eneough to figure that out.
  5. sorry, try again, searching DT MUSTANG ONTARIO this will bring up a link to a PDF file of the catalogue.
  6. I just stumbled upon a website that has a 182 page catilog with an overwhelming amount of parts for 64-73. everything from coat hooks to frame rails. The interior section is impressive. Might be a good tool to compare prices of used parts, or sourse what you cant find. DT ONTARIO out of Brantford Ontario Canada.
  7. Was just lookpng at these on a site called DT ONTARIO out of Brantford Ontario Canada.You can download there 182 page catilog. ...skip to the index at the end to save time. I dont see why thay wouldnt ship wordwide.
  8. hi Chris. Might be to late but I saw a pair on Kijiji Ontario yesterday for $100. Listed under 73 Mustang.
  9. Its my understanding these cars were prone to windshield leaks that rusted/rotted the dash. Our car was rusted when we took the dash apart. when washing or raining there was a small dribble of water on the inside of the windshield. Eventually there would be a wet spot on the floor.My wife painstakingly masked the roof, trim, and windshield, then put a small bead of black rv silicone on both sides of the trim. after smoothing out the silicone you couldnt see it. she did a great job and stopped the leak. I know its not the "right" way to do things but I dont see anything wrong with preserveing the car untill the windshield needs to come out for some other reason. We all leaked a little at that age. Didnt we?
  10. Duh... Im so stupid. You guys are the best. Upon closer examination there are screw holes in the sheet metal. Had to peel the headliner back and poke around a bit but they are there.They seem to be on a 45 degree angle from the windshield so of course me trying to put screws in at 90 degrees was missing the mark. Both my wife and I totaly missed this.. You guys are GREAT! Thankyou.
  11. Thanks for trying Cam. This too is my wifes car. I have a 67 Camero
  12. Hi guys. Anybody have a pic of how this is held on. I'm assuming there's some kind of clip that the trim snaps into or screws into. But I have no idea what it looks like or where to order it in Canada. Previous owner had the front held on with butyl and the back just hanging. I thought easy fix, I'll just put some screws in but there's nothing to screw into. On a side note I was on an old car forum looking for ideas and couldn't get over the negative posts, the name calling, the back bitting. Thanks for being a good group of guys 7173 community.
  13. When my wife bought her car, the dash pad was cracked but came with a new one still in the package. when we went to install it, and took it out of the package it was a thin plastic cover that fit over the pad giving the apearance of a factory pad. We took great pains to install it perfectly and it was just as much work as installing a proper pad. Over the winter it shrunk and split wide open...Lesson learned. this type of cover is not suitable for Canadian climates. Just thought I'd put this out there for anybody researching pads.
  14. Just had this happen 3 days ago. Was trying to check a voltage regulator with the key on , and the Black/orange stripe wire at the solinoid started smoking. Asked the alternator rebuilder about it and he said fileing/cleaning the ring terminal on the wire takes care of this 90 percent of the time. Found on mine the wire was broken inside the insulation and was probably working on 2 or 3 strands before I took it off for cleaning. Was broken about an inch down from the ring terminal but insulation was still intact. If it hadnt of broke completly while cleaning I wouldnt have known.
  15. Thanks Rocketman. I watched that vid. several times, I didnt like the part where the voltage shot up to 18v. Decided to pull the alt. and have it tested. The alt rebuilder said my alt was fine and it was a good call not to spike an already fragile electrical system. He ordered me a heavy duty voltage regulator. I cleaned all my connections and grounds and hope to get the regulator in today. Again thanks Rocketman
  16. Hi guys. I know this information is in this forum somewhere but for some reason I cant access it. I find this forum extreamly hard to navigate. Might be my platform, Might just be me. I apoligize. My question is... If I have 12 volts at the battery after chargeing. and no increase in voltage when the car is running, and the ALT light is on, how do I know if its the voltage regulator, or the alternator thats bad. Again I apoligize for not being able to search this toptc.
  17. My Horn fuse blowing was the result of previous owner putting the aftermarket steering wheel together without all the parts.Had to make insulaters. Had nothing to do with lights though.
  18. Picked up 4 off the side of the road. 2 went in the wifes mach and 2 went in the wifes kia. Ive had no issues but the guy who threw them out must have. I would never have bought new just because of the price.
  19. Mine had the 2 black plugs same as pic #3 but when I cleaned them up one was actually blue.
  20. Thanks 71fast I think you nailed it. My PDF stopped at page 11 so I never would have found that information. I couldnt figure out why I would have an ambient temperature sensor switch in the first place, with no AC or computer but, after some reserch , turns out the sensor tells the transmission controled emmission stuff to turn on but only above 58 degrees F. I think all that stuff was removed years ago so if I leave the connector unplugged and put the vacuum advance hose into the intake manifold I should be golden. Thanks again to everybody who chimed in.
  21. Thanks for your input. You guys ROCK. Solved the problem (sort of) Rigged up a blade type fuse holder from the fuse box and mounted it to the steering wheel for easy viewing. Blew fuse after fuse so I unplugged all connectors coming out of the firewall. Still blowing the fuse but now we know its inside the car, not under the hood. Started unplugging connectors under dash until fuse stopped blowing. I think its the connector to the fuel tank sending unit, but not sure. It is located above the glove box and you can follow the wires down behind the passenger kick panel but then it disappears into the body. I cant seem to find these wire colours on the wiring diagram. Im not even sure what you would call these colours. Anybody recognize this connector? Once again- you guys rock
  22. I've got a 1973 351. As soon as the key is turned to the ON position, #4 fuse blows. This fuse is 14A for the "Idiot" lights. I've disconnected the (semi-circle) "directional signal connector' and the (square black) 'Ignition switch connector' from the steering column. I have no continuity from those connectors to ground - with the exception of the ground pin (black wire). Therefore the wiring in steering column is okay. (?) I have removed the instrument cluster and disconnected the headlight switch. When i test the fuse holder, with the fuse removed, i get continuity from one sde to thei other. Is this right? Is there an obvious cause to the fuse blowing? I have inspected the wires as much as I could and see nothing obvious. (bare, loose, corroded wires). What am i missing?? Everything else seems to work just fine! I'm not sure if it's relevant, but the motor has after market carborator and there are a few wires from the harness...that are not connected to anything. My diagram says that #4 is also for "Emission control solenoid", 'Throttle solenoid positioner', and 'Electronic spark control' ......none of which I'm even sure are still there (Holly Carb). Any help would be appreciated
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