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Everything posted by MustangSally44

  1. I've used the brass ferrule from a compression fitting with a touch of solder to create the bump on tube
  2. Thanks guys. Not a lot of information on the newer 600cfm holleys on the internet. Found a video of a guy troubleshooting a Demon and he said the same thing you guys are saying. Pulled the primary float bowl and checked the needle and seat. Seamed ok to me but I took it to my local speed shop and he said you can't tell so l bought his last needle and seat. Put it in and the car started up rough but smoothed out after a couple of minutes. Probably washed all the oil off the cyl. Walls. The new parts did the trick. I'll change the oil and take it for a run on Monday. Let's hope that gremlins dead. Thanks again guys.
  3. So we let the car sit overnight to dry out and tried it again this morning. Had the wife start it as normal, it fired right up but ran very rough. 5 seconds later gas started spewing out of this hole. Stuck float? I'm thinking this is where it was leaking from and just running down the vacuum diaphragm shaft when the car was turned off. Is this a big deal to fix? Never worked on a Holley. Thanks guys.
  4. Driving home from the tire shop, the wife's car stalled after she tromped on the accelerator then jammed on the brakes. The car wouldn't start again. I pulled off the breather and saw the top of the carb was wet. Figured it was flooded and told her to hold her (foot to the floor and crank it over. Car eventually started but was running very rough. Managed to limp it home, still running terribly. Told her to keep it running while I looked at it. No clouds of oil out the exhaust - so not a broken ring, which was my first thought. Looked at the carb and saw lots of gas dripping off the brass end of the secondary vacuum. I know absolutely nothing about Holleys but from what I have read, there should be no fuel in that part of the system. Why is it leaking and running worse than a tractor? Carb is a Holley 80457-5 on a Cleveland. Thanks in advance for your help, you guys are way smarter than I am
  5. I think maybe a trip to California may be in order to buy another one.
  6. Bought a 67 camero when I was a kid. PO was an electrician and couldn't figure out this problem. He sold it to me cheep cause one minute it would start,the next it wouldn't problem was good ground to the motor, bad ground to the body. A strap from the neg to the fender fixed it right up. PO said he had it in the shop 5 times with no luck. Nobody thought to check the ignition switch ground. I still have the car.
  7. Hi everybody. My wife's 73 has waterleaks on both sides. I need to replace the weatherstrip between the window and the quarter glass. Am I right to assume the chrome strip stays on the window and the new rubber somehow fits into it. Not sure how to remove or install. What to buy, where to buy it, where not to buy it, or even the proper name. I'm in Canada so distributer would need to ship across the boarder. Thanks for your help and advise.
  8. Sold a dirt bike to a nice Columbian gentleman who was going to fix the broken fender with a soldering iron, aluminium window screen and strips of the same colour plastic for filler rod. He said that was common practice down there and was confident he could make it strong and look good. Might work on the back of this louver.
  9. Hello from Ontario. My sugestion would be to get the car on the road and work the bugs out of it. Your bound to have electrical issues,water leaks, mecanical problems.ect. Over time you will have a good running/driveing car that your knowledgeable about. Now you can decide whether to do a full out restoration or just get it painted.. Old cars arnt everybody's cup of tea and can nickle and dime you to death so be sure you want to commit before takeing on a huge project. If you do go the restoation route, remember cars are just a bunch of sub assemblys put together. for example if I removed a gas tank it would be cleaned, painted ,hardware replaced wrapped up and put on a shelf ready to be reinstalled then move on to the next part. People who take the whole car apart and throw everything in the corner seldom put them back together. Good luck.keep us informed.
  10. Thank you David. Enjoyable and informative read. What's your take on Dynacorn body's. I know it's not made yet for our cars but it's only a matter of time and might be worth the wait. I have a 67 camero that I did up 30 years ago and needs it again. I was thinking Dynacorn. Part of the reason is the instant gratification of removing a part, restoring it,installing it. I tend to loose interest when overwhelmed with a project. Was thinking a dynacorn could be shipped directly to the paint shop and I could have a shinny red shell to start with. Again thanks for your input and opinion.
  11. some thing we did that helped alot was to make studs out of bolts to align the carpet to the seat bolt holes in the floor, then install the seats on the studs. Unscrew a stud,screw in a seat bolt. everything stays lined up and you can find the hole.
  12. We tore the interior out of ours awhile ago to get some welding done. While everything was removed I painted all the metal with 2 coats of enamle useing a brush. Was much nicer crawling around on a shiny painted surface as aposed to the rust and tar.also adds an extra layer of protection if theres wate leaks.A wire cup wheel on the drill did a great job cleaning befor paint
  13. Just thought Id throw in my 2 cents... I worked at an auto plant for 20 years and the glue we used was butal rubber . and construction adhesive. also its been my experience with phospuric acid that it coverts iron oxide or rust to phospuric oxide but only whats penatrated, so you could actualy have red rust under the black oxide.If it were me, I would buy another shell that you could blast dip weld prime and paint, then remove parts from your car to install on the restored shell. Also I think zinc primer is the way to go. Been on my truck for 20 years. Again just my 2 cents.
  14. I know this is an old post but I researched it when I was looking for a solution and thought someone else might be researching and benifit from my experience.First off, nothing would hold the mirror on my wifes 73. I even tried hot glue wich was the only thing that worked on my old AMC. We gave up trying when the mirror fell off on the way home from the glass shop. So were up at the lake and shes complaining about the mirror so I thought Id give it one more try. I scraped the glass with a razor blade and didnt have any alcohal to clean with but Smirnoff's did the trick. I sanded the metal button and found it wasnt flat. Looked like factory finish but wasnt flat. Filed the button till I was happy with it then put some deep crosshatch file marks in it to give the glue something to hold to. I used a very thin layer of Premium PL construction adheasive on the button and held it on the windshield with Duct tape.. The next weekend at the lake I peeled the duct tape off and scraped the residue off with a razor. Vodka wouldnt touch the gooey stuff but Purell did a nice job and now the windshield is germ free. When I went to put the mirror on I noticed the 2 ball sockets on the back were almost siezed solid.How come the guy at the glass shop didnt notice this. So every time you adjusted the mirror you were using leverage to pull the mirror off the glass. Took me lots of dolphiin oil { all porpoise ) and a whole beer to get it freed up. Been 2 weeks now and holding. Will update if it falls off again.
  15. Thanks Tony. No buddy at my house smart eneough to figure that out.
  16. sorry, try again, searching DT MUSTANG ONTARIO this will bring up a link to a PDF file of the catalogue.
  17. I just stumbled upon a website that has a 182 page catilog with an overwhelming amount of parts for 64-73. everything from coat hooks to frame rails. The interior section is impressive. Might be a good tool to compare prices of used parts, or sourse what you cant find. DT ONTARIO out of Brantford Ontario Canada.
  18. Was just lookpng at these on a site called DT ONTARIO out of Brantford Ontario Canada.You can download there 182 page catilog. ...skip to the index at the end to save time. I dont see why thay wouldnt ship wordwide.
  19. hi Chris. Might be to late but I saw a pair on Kijiji Ontario yesterday for $100. Listed under 73 Mustang.
  20. Its my understanding these cars were prone to windshield leaks that rusted/rotted the dash. Our car was rusted when we took the dash apart. when washing or raining there was a small dribble of water on the inside of the windshield. Eventually there would be a wet spot on the floor.My wife painstakingly masked the roof, trim, and windshield, then put a small bead of black rv silicone on both sides of the trim. after smoothing out the silicone you couldnt see it. she did a great job and stopped the leak. I know its not the "right" way to do things but I dont see anything wrong with preserveing the car untill the windshield needs to come out for some other reason. We all leaked a little at that age. Didnt we?
  21. Duh... Im so stupid. You guys are the best. Upon closer examination there are screw holes in the sheet metal. Had to peel the headliner back and poke around a bit but they are there.They seem to be on a 45 degree angle from the windshield so of course me trying to put screws in at 90 degrees was missing the mark. Both my wife and I totaly missed this.. You guys are GREAT! Thankyou.
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