Jump to content

Frankenstang71

Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Frankenstang71 last won the day on January 3 2020

Frankenstang71 had the most liked content!

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    71 M code, light pewter 4 spd. ram air, no stripes, no spoiler, deluxe or sport interior needs compete restoration .

Location

  • Location
    US
  • Region
    Northeast

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Frankenstang71's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

6

Reputation

  1. This is too funny, I never seen these answers to my post until today..thanks for posting. I welded mine in this last winter but thanks for the confirmation, I did add "tails" on to mine to bring it down to the panel bottom.
  2. Thank you for taking the time to check it out for me, I thought they looked quite large. My original back panel was long gone so I had no reference to go by. Again thank you for all your posts, helps me a lot. Bryan
  3. Just wanted to thank you for posting all these details. very helpful to me as most of the time I cannot tell what was original on my car and what was not. Can you tell me what size the holes in the back panel for the honeycomb trim should be? I have mine drilled out but not large enough. Seems like the original holes are quite large? Thanks again, Bryan
  4. Hello all I have a few questions for a 1971 mach 1. I have here my bracket that has been chopped up and removed with some material cut off bottom tabs from previous restorer...does anyone know how long these bottom tabs were before they were cut off? Did they go to bottom of panel? How was this bracket welded on top and bottom? spot welds that you could not see or bumpy welds that you could see? Also can anyone tell me the size of the holes the factory drilled in back panel that the mach 1 trim goes into? They look like they were fairly large originally? What i have drilled works but I want to drill it to factory size. Pictures of welds would be appreciated, thanks Bryan
  5. Is this the same for 1971 cars? I had the idea that only 4 speed cars got the staggered shocks? It must be more complex than that?
  6. This is a great thread, thanks for starting it. I like Tony's solution, would be useful for lifting ice shanties or whatever else...
  7. About those tabs: you might want to weld them on while the new cowl is out of the car, I had to stand on my head to weld them in after the fact. These brackets were the only ones I could see that they left off from my new cowl. Here is what my cowl "patch" looked like after welding on, I did not get the perfect circle I was hoping for but it was the best I could do. I welded it around the little lip that remained after I drilled off the drivers "hat". I then put sealer around top and bottom. The first picture of patch is peeking through the top of cowl, the bottom is as you look up at the bottom of cowl from inside car.
  8. I purchased a full floor from dynacorn that included both seat platforms for fastback. I compared replacements to my originals and they are very close in height if not spot on. I ended up reusing my originals so I have the new ones extra. If you cannot get them from Ohio mustang I would be willing to sell them. They would cost a bunch to ship as they are big and heavy. BTW-those bare metal ones in the picture look terrible. The black ones pictured are what I have and they match all the factory shapes like they should. I had an issue with my new full floor in that the shape was a bit different which caused me to reshape the leading edge of seat platforms a bit to meet the floor. The dynacorn half floors have the correct shape to meet the seat platform fronts but that is a different subject.
  9. Hi, are you aware that dynacorn makes a nice fastback style full roof for these now? Old tread....
  10. Does anyone know what this car sold for at auction? I really like the greens on this car. cant believe someone would paint it white but I guess we all have our preferences.
  11. My 71 Mach 1 had the entire bottom painted/primered with a dark olive green (this was under the factory tarlike undercoating). My interior as seen on firewall and kick panel areas was the reddish brown. I can enclose pictures later is anyone is interested. I have not figured out what color my inside trunk was primered with originally as it was heavily damaged and recovered. I have thought it was strange that no one else has talked about ford using odd colors on the car floors as they did on mine. certainly factory applied as it is underneath every bracket that I have cut off car. This is interesting then, maybe I am ok with the red oxide on the inside and the dark color on the under belly only. As can be clearly seen this green was under the black coating and was covering the entire bottom of trunk and floorpans. certainly not applied later. the red primer can be seen in the interior, this is an early 71 from dearborn.
  12. My Dearborn ‘71 J Code AZ Vert had “0” red oxide anywhere on the car... I painstakingly and carefully checked many areas of the car before stripping and sending out for blasting. The undernearth primer colour was a very dark grey/black combination. Interestingly enough, the Underneath of this car had been over sprayed at the factory with sound deadner ( not undercoating!). I returned the underneath as close to as I found it. Like you, I tried to concentrate on the overspray body colour underneath, except for the the afterward’s... applied black paint to the visible area of metal sticking down just under the door’s. It is my understanding this was done on light colour painted car’s... So then whatever color primer was used (dark gray/black or red oxide), then the whole car was primed in that color correct? That will certainly make my other restorations a lot easier from a paint perspective. My 71 Mach 1 had the entire bottom painted/primered with a dark olive green (this was under the factory tarlike undercoating). My interior as seen on firewall and kick panel areas was the reddish brown. I can enclose pictures later is anyone is interested. I have not figured out what color my inside trunk was primered with originally as it was heavily damaged and recovered. I have thought it was strange that no one else has talked about ford using odd colors on the car floors as they did on mine. certainly factory applied as it is underneath every bracket that I have cut off car.
  13. I recall posting a craigslist ad from Saginaw Michigan on this site a few months ago. The subject was a somewhat clean looking 351C mach 1 1972? relatively intact but well worn with the engine out. The asking price was $5000. which did not seem to be a bargain to me but not insane either. "Someone" from Carolina responded that the price was outrageous and that he bought running driving cars all the time for $1000-1500. I was confused at the time as I don't see any $1000. running cars like that in MI or down south when I went down "car scrounging" a few years ago. Now after seeing pics of his car for sale I understand completely. If I am selling the car, its worthless, if he is selling it=priceless. I know its a free country but flippers hurt hobbies.
  14. I knew I could count on David to torpedo this one... ::thumb:: Location, location, location. Come to the rust belt and this is the kind of garbage people want $2k+ for. Not saying they'll get it, but that's what's out there. Most anything that runs and drives with semi-decent paint starts at $10k around here. https://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/d/westfield-1972-mustang-mach-factory/6890366570.html https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/d/beverly-1973-ford-mustang-mach-1-project/6909446145.html That is just what I was thinking...I don't see many old car bargains in Michigan, I am sure I don't know the right people though...when I went car hunting down south they were expensive also..I am thinking old car prices are starting to come down a bit lately though..
  15. What do you think about the price? I am not crazy about the idea that someone has already pulled the engine and trans. So many people discard parts and details when they disassemble them. I already have one basket case. My personal preference is colorful cars (green, yellow, blue) mine is pewter which is ok. Engine stuff is easy and it being out makes it easier to inspect the body of the car. Depends on how much rust there actually is. If it needs an A-pillar, a trunk floor and a cowl, then it's real high. If that's just surface rust and there is minimal or no other rust repairs needed, then I'd say it's in the ballpark, but #1 rule on CL is to ask more than you really want. I know how much work I put into the rust repairs on my 71 and it would totally be worth it to me at $5k~7k if it only needs some extremely minor patches. It's from NC and usually the interiors are completely destroyed with no usable parts. Given that the interior appears to just be torn, then I'd say this one spent a good part of it's life garaged. I'd almost be inclined to do a little spot repair on the paint, buff and leave it alone while I did a driving restoration. Nothing wrong with patina. Thanks, if it was a yellow or green car I would be all over it. I may look at it anyways if I am not welding my floor board in this week.. :-/ For some reason I hate the idea of color changes on a car... I like the idea of originality I guess.
×
×
  • Create New...